Soil pipe reroute so not across window

Mardofoxtrot · May 22, 2019

hi here is a pic of soil pipe recently put in to new attic bathroom. The pipe can’t go to the right of the window pictured but I am hoping there is a small change possible to creat a better route than this to change only that small piece and tuck it more neatly to the left and not overhanging the window quite so much and preferably not at all. I’m really not happy with how it is. Spoils the window from inside and out.

Homeowner....plumbing naive, respecting of Victorian windows.

Brambles · May 22, 2019

I would be more concerned about the extensive damage caused during installation to the load bearing brickwork above the window.

I assume that this is probably a thin solid wall - identified by the three headers (see below)

A minimum of three courses of brickwork should be left fully bonded and undisturbed above a brick arch lintel. Even then any cuts should really be cored.

If left as is, the three cross headers will fail - immediately above the waste pipe cut out - that brickwork transfers loading from the roof via the wall plate to either side of the window.

The wall plate - the timber sitting on top of the brickwork, tying the rafters - will now be starting to act as the lintel - if it fails, the roof local to the window will form a pronounced sag.

chris watkins · May 22, 2019

Cut the gutter back enough to allow the soil to turn vertical at end then up to a branch with an access cap in the end & across to the pipe going through the wall to server the new bathroom. You will likely need to move the dish over to allow this.

chris watkins · May 22, 2019

Where dose it vent ? Do hope it is not a Durgo.

Mardofoxtrot · May 22, 2019

chris watkins said:
Where dose it vent ? Do hope it is not a Durgo.

Thanks for your replies Chris....what does durgo mean? Will send pic tomorrow. Clearly we’re not happy with the job. It’s just how to go about getting it rectified....asking same plumber or just footing the bill and getting someone else in.

Mardofoxtrot · May 22, 2019

Brambles said:
I would be more concerned about the extensive damage caused during installation to the load bearing brickwork above the window.

I assume that this is probably a thin solid wall - identified by the three headers (see below)

A minimum of three courses of brickwork should be left fully bonded and undisturbed above a brick arch lintel. Even then any cuts should really be cored.

If left as is, the three cross headers will fail - immediately above the waste pipe cut out - that brickwork transfers loading from the roof via the wall plate to either side of the window.

The wall plate - the timber sitting on top of the brickwork, tying the rafters - will now be starting to act as the lintel - if it fails, the roof local to the window will form a pronounced sag.

Thanks for your reply, hopefully can all be rectified in next week.

Rob Foster · May 23, 2019

Mardofoxtrot said:
hi here is a pic of soil pipe recently put in to new attic bathroom. The pipe can’t go to the right of the window pictured but I am hoping there is a small change possible to creat a better route than this to change only that small piece and tuck it more neatly to the left and not overhanging the window quite so much and preferably not at all. I’m really not happy with how it is. Spoils the window from inside and out.

Homeowner....plumbing naive, respecting of Victorian windows.

View attachment 38768

Simple, carry the vertical soil pipe upwards, cut away the soffit, and lower course of slate.
Replace with a lead slate with 4inch rubber weather slot to maintain roof integrity. Bring the 1 1/2 waste over above window neatly down into stack.
As to venting, just terminating the stack below the velux might get a bit smelly. Use a dirgo..wisper that quietly or carry the soil vent over to the left, move sky dish, and terminate with a birdcage somewhere up near the ridge.
My kind of job that.
centralheatking

king of pipes · May 23, 2019

The pipe route can be improved by swapping the 90 degree elbow for a Male to female fitting then turned to 45 degrees adding a 45 degree female to female fitting , then it's much the same as fitted but less visable and tucked to the left I can see no need to alter the gutter or disturb the roof structure which could cause other issues . Regards kop

Welder · May 23, 2019

Personally, I'd never use pushfit for the 40mm in that situation, only solvent weld. I think I'd also have found a way of joining the 40mm into the soil stack internally. I agree it needs a proper vent pipe - even if it's only of 50mm.

Looking at the thing, it just occurs to me that simply doing away with the middle elbow and turning the top elbow to face the bottom one (so kind of 60 degrees) it would impinge on the window far less.

chris watkins · May 23, 2019

I am shocked that a "plumber" carried out the work, were Building Control involved in the addition bathroom /loft works?

Part H of the Building Regulations covers the drainage work along with the lengths of runs etc. it states that the head (end) of the drain run must be vented to atmosphere which should ideally be your new bathroom stack but so long as there is still the existing vent which I am guessing is back where the new & old connect out of shoot, then they could get away with installing a Durgo (automatic air admittance) valve as the name suggests it only allows air in not out & means the roof doesn't need to be penetrated.
May be time to get a proper Plumber to have a look as something needs to be done if that is the finished job !! with no support on the bend across the window it could easily come off.

Welder