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Mardofoxtrot

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hi here is a pic of soil pipe recently put in to new attic bathroom. The pipe can’t go to the right of the window pictured but I am hoping there is a small change possible to creat a better route than this to change only that small piece and tuck it more neatly to the left and not overhanging the window quite so much and preferably not at all. I’m really not happy with how it is. Spoils the window from inside and out.

Homeowner....plumbing naive, respecting of Victorian windows.

7A89D81F-93E1-477A-8693-E9D5A94DEEF7.jpeg
 

Brambles

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I would be more concerned about the extensive damage caused during installation to the load bearing brickwork above the window.

I assume that this is probably a thin solid wall - identified by the three headers (see below)

A minimum of three courses of brickwork should be left fully bonded and undisturbed above a brick arch lintel. Even then any cuts should really be cored.

If left as is, the three cross headers will fail - immediately above the waste pipe cut out - that brickwork transfers loading from the roof via the wall plate to either side of the window.

The wall plate - the timber sitting on top of the brickwork, tying the rafters - will now be starting to act as the lintel - if it fails, the roof local to the window will form a pronounced sag.
 
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chris watkins

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Cut the gutter back enough to allow the soil to turn vertical at end then up to a branch with an access cap in the end & across to the pipe going through the wall to server the new bathroom. You will likely need to move the dish over to allow this.
 
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Mardofoxtrot

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Where dose it vent ? Do hope it is not a Durgo. :(
Thanks for your replies Chris....what does durgo mean? Will send pic tomorrow. Clearly we’re not happy with the job. It’s just how to go about getting it rectified....asking same plumber or just footing the bill and getting someone else in.
 
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Mardofoxtrot

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I would be more concerned about the extensive damage caused during installation to the load bearing brickwork above the window.

I assume that this is probably a thin solid wall - identified by the three headers (see below)

A minimum of three courses of brickwork should be left fully bonded and undisturbed above a brick arch lintel. Even then any cuts should really be cored.

If left as is, the three cross headers will fail - immediately above the waste pipe cut out - that brickwork transfers loading from the roof via the wall plate to either side of the window.

The wall plate - the timber sitting on top of the brickwork, tying the rafters - will now be starting to act as the lintel - if it fails, the roof local to the window will form a pronounced sag.
Thanks for your reply, hopefully can all be rectified in next week.
 

Rob Foster

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hi here is a pic of soil pipe recently put in to new attic bathroom. The pipe can’t go to the right of the window pictured but I am hoping there is a small change possible to creat a better route than this to change only that small piece and tuck it more neatly to the left and not overhanging the window quite so much and preferably not at all. I’m really not happy with how it is. Spoils the window from inside and out.

Homeowner....plumbing naive, respecting of Victorian windows.

View attachment 38768
Simple, carry the vertical soil pipe upwards, cut away the soffit, and lower course of slate.
Replace with a lead slate with 4inch rubber weather slot to maintain roof integrity. Bring the 1 1/2 waste over above window neatly down into stack.
As to venting, just terminating the stack below the velux might get a bit smelly. Use a dirgo..wisper that quietly or carry the soil vent over to the left, move sky dish, and terminate with a birdcage somewhere up near the ridge.
My kind of job that.
centralheatking
 

king of pipes

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The pipe route can be improved by swapping the 90 degree elbow for a Male to female fitting then turned to 45 degrees adding a 45 degree female to female fitting , then it's much the same as fitted but less visable and tucked to the left I can see no need to alter the gutter or disturb the roof structure which could cause other issues . Regards kop

Screenshot_20190523-055802_Chrome.jpg
 

YorkshireDave

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Personally, I'd never use pushfit for the 40mm in that situation, only solvent weld. I think I'd also have found a way of joining the 40mm into the soil stack internally. I agree it needs a proper vent pipe - even if it's only of 50mm.

Looking at the thing, it just occurs to me that simply doing away with the middle elbow and turning the top elbow to face the bottom one (so kind of 60 degrees) it would impinge on the window far less.
 

chris watkins

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Re-piped Soil run.jpg
I am shocked that a "plumber" carried out the work, were Building Control involved in the addition bathroom /loft works?

Part H of the Building Regulations covers the drainage work along with the lengths of runs etc. it states that the head (end) of the drain run must be vented to atmosphere which should ideally be your new bathroom stack but so long as there is still the existing vent which I am guessing is back where the new & old connect out of shoot, then they could get away with installing a Durgo (automatic air admittance) valve as the name suggests it only allows air in not out & means the roof doesn't need to be penetrated.
May be time to get a proper Plumber to have a look as something needs to be done if that is the finished job !! with no support on the bend across the window it could easily come off.
 
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Mardofoxtrot

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View attachment 38776
I am shocked that a "plumber" carried out the work, were Building Control involved in the addition bathroom /loft works?

Part H of the Building Regulations covers the drainage work along with the lengths of runs etc. it states that the head (end) of the drain run must be vented to atmosphere which should ideally be your new bathroom stack but so long as there is still the existing vent which I am guessing is back where the new & old connect out of shoot, then they could get away with installing a Durgo (automatic air admittance) valve as the name suggests it only allows air in not out & means the roof doesn't need to be penetrated.
May be time to get a proper Plumber to have a look as something needs to be done if that is the finished job !! with no support on the bend across the window it could easily come off.
Thanks so much for the replies and helpful diagram. There’s been questions about the vent. Please see pic. The plumber is back tomorrow to rectify. So need to decide what I’m asking him to do.

EAD2B615-1EBB-4B20-8263-99989033C319.jpeg
 
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Mardofoxtrot

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Thanks so much for the replies and helpful diagram. There’s been questions about the vent. Please see pic. The plumber is back tomorrow to rectify. So need to decide what I’m asking him to do.

View attachment 38791
Also worth staying structurally there are no problems. Both our roofer and our builder who are onsite at the moment have confirmed there’s no structural concern for the roof.
 

Millsy 82

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Also worth staying structurally there are no problems. Both our roofer and our builder who are onsite at the moment have confirmed there’s no structural concern for the roof.
They wont exactly say there is though will they. Have a structural engineer inspect I think they may say something.

Was it a plumber that carried out that work? Your vent should be higher than any of the sanitaryware so if there is a blockage it wont just overflow a lovely looking turd onto your roof.

Who thought running it in front of the window would of been a good idea? And then running it along like that it will look crap no matter how you do it.

Is the extension new as well? Or is it a new roof and pointing round the lead work?
 
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Mardofoxtrot

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They wont exactly say there is though will they. Have a structural engineer inspect I think they may say something.

Was it a plumber that carried out that work? Your vent should be higher than any of the sanitaryware so if there is a blockage it wont just overflow a lovely looking turd onto your roof.

Who thought running it in front of the window would of been a good idea? And then running it along like that it will look crap no matter how you do it.

Is the extension new as well? Or is it a new roof and pointing round the lead work?
The builder and roofer are completely independent of each other and of the plumber so they don’t have any reason to say there is a problem. The builder is not even working on the building at the moment, just quoting for other work. If anything it would mean more work for them in repairing.

Yes a plumber did the work. There is no extension or loft conversion. All existing and roof meets building regs
 

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