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Or putting more pressure in
Discuss Finding a blockage in heating pipework in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net
Via the filing loop? To try and blast the blockage or? Also, I'm I best draining system before going round with a magnet?Or putting more pressure in
It's a combi convert from an old gravity system. Single circuit. Have traced pipes from loft and no sign of any valves unless under floor. Pipework goes up from boiler to 1st floor and comes down to first floor beside the lounge door inside boxing and the disappears under floor.I wouldn't spend too much time travelling about with a magnet to be honest.
You need to sit down and think through this with a cuppa.
We have not seen the system so it is a bit difficult.
Are you sure that there are no Non return valves or Motorised valves in the pipe work?
How old is the system ?
Not all blockages are ferrous in nature and you said the water wasn't that dirty.
I don't have a pump to do that Shaun.. and can't do it with the boiler connectedDoesn't matter if the system is drained to test with the magnet works either way
And would stick 5 bar in it and see what it does
Sorry, I must be extra thick today! Shut all other rads except problem rads. On 1st prob rad disconnect a valve and attach my flusher to it and see if I get good flow from open end? Doesn't this still have to go round the main circuit?Disconnect the rad valve on each end of the problem rads and check the flow into a bucket or hose.
Make sure you get a good flow from all four ends.
This should help identify any blocked runs etc
Oh lol I see what you mean..No.
I meant:-
Release the pressure from the system.
Turn both the valves off to one of the problem rads.
Disconnect one valve from one end and turn it to face forward. ( you'll need to plug the rad to stop it dribbling of course, I use a rubber bung).
Then, into a baking tray or bucket or hose connected to the valve you have disconnected, open said valve (carefully) to check that water flows from it.
If it does, re connect it and do the next, just to prove that there is a flow of water from each of those valves.
Once you've done that, you will either see that one or more or indeed none of the pipes are restricted.
No I hear what your saying, and I really appreciate your help.I'm thinking that if those rads are not working and there is some sort of restriction in the flow around the system, it is a good place to start. As good a place as any.
You will confirm whether there is a clear path to each end of each rad.
It will only tell you if that length of pipe to the rad is clear of course. Beyond that is more difficult, it can flow from either side of a tee, for example.
You may be better releasing the pressure from the rad in your case, that way there will still be pressure in the system to allow water to be pushed from the end you have disconnected. You will have to keep it topped up too.
Once you've done that and ruled out a blockage in each section, you can move on with your thinking.
A lot depends on route too and like I said earlier, we haven't seen the job.
If for example, the two downstairs rads are fed together then a blockage in either flow or return would stop them both from working but if they are both tee'd off separately, you are less likely to learn anything because water can flow form either direction.
I am just trying to think of a good place to start !
Hope this is helping and not confusing the issue.
As far as I can see as I've taken up a couple of boards downstairs is in 15mm. I've strangely got flow now. Gone open one rad at a time and see what gives me the weakest flow and return temp to see if I can narrow it downJust to refer back to CHUCK's comments earlier.
This blockage ( if it is a blockage ), could just be partial and could cause the Boiler to short cycle.
That would prevent the downstairs from getting hot.
If that's the case, the you would possibly still get a flow from each leg.
What size are the pipes in the downstairs circuit, are they the same as the rest of the circuit or smaller?
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