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- 2,773
Morning gents, I am on my way to bed and thought to myself 'why didn't I ask on here?'
I then thought to myself 'do it now'
So I that is what I am doing
Swapped a couple of old worn out rad valves for TRV's today (one of those jobs where everything goes wrong...), should have taken 2-3 hours so priced accordingly, ended up being more than 6 hours from keys in ignition to getting home.
Everything that could be difficult was difficult.
When I looked at the job I was sure the valves were both straight, gets there today and one is straight, the other is angled and I used my stock angled last week and didn't replace it, so 1 hour round trip to get another one, interrupted by my e-cig spewing e-liquid everywhere and not giving me a decent drag, luckily there's an e-cig cafe thing near Plumbfix...
2 drain off points in the bungalow - not on the rads that need new valves and all rads drop-fed so approx an hour for a drain down into jugs and buckets at a snails pace to minimise the risk to the beige carpets.
Didn't have a key that would fit the old tails so ended up having to disassemble a bedroom unit to get one jaw of my grips in the hole to lever it loose enough to undo it.
Ancient rads that were fixed with the two bottom clips and another clip either side, the screws from one of the side clips pulled their wooden dowel wall plugs out of the wall and it took way too long to repack the holes enough to get a decent fix again.
Old valve was a good inch longer than the new valve so couldn't do a straight swap so had to cut back and put a new short length of copper on, pipes painted with gloss that the super-glue creators would be proud of (not a biggie, but just another one of the many things that stopped this job being a simple swap)
Lockshield started peeing from the gland as soon as I touched it, whipped the top part off to find the biggest gap I've ever seen in a gland type valve before, took about 20 wraps of PTFE to stop it, until I was filling up again when it decided it would need another 10ish wraps.
1st rad sorted.
Gets to 2nd rad and discover it's still full of water when cracking the valve nut. Took another 15 mins to carefully drain into a jug/bucket, got the old valve and tail off, sticks the new tail and valve in, goes to tighten up the 15mm connection to the feed - the old conex is imperial thread ! The old olive had been gorillad on the pipe so took a while to hacksaw it and split with a screwdriver. Gets the new olive and nut on and tighten up.
Woohoo! Job finished at last!!! I just have to refill now and turn the boiler back on.
Turned mains water back on and refilled all radiators except one of the ones I have sorted, open vent system and just no way the water wants to get back in that rad, doesn't really make sense as this rad shares a drop with the one on the other side of the wall, anyway I tell the customer I'll bleed it with the pump running and hope a bit of pressure from the pump will convince the water to co-operate, so just need to turn the heating on now.
Goes to the boiler, a glow worm 45-60 and the pilot isn't lit. This is strange as I saw it lit at the start of the job and followed the instructions on the boiler casing which said turning the temp control to off will stop the boiler firing but keep the pilot lit.
Followed the instructions on the boiler for re-lighting the pilot for a good 40 minutes without any joy whatsoever (there's a mini-me inside my head crying his eyes out at this point).
It said turn the gas control knob to the pilot position and press while repeatedly pressing the ignition, thing is there was no obvious marker on the gas control knob to tell you what the pilot position was, it turned a little maybe 20degrees or so but was sprung so that it returned to its original position, so I tried relighting it without turning and also with turning the little bit that it would turn.
After 40 minutes or so of trying this and the customer telling me the gas man who used to relight his boiler wasn't a gas man any more and also that one guy lit it by taking the inspection widow off the combustion chamber and sticking matches in - I gave up, I told him he needs a gas engineer to come out and strongly advised him not to use matches or take the inspection window off.
So, after the epic wall of text above I finally get to the point.
Is that how you light the pilot on a glow worm 45 60, or did I miss something?
I then thought to myself 'do it now'
So I that is what I am doing
Swapped a couple of old worn out rad valves for TRV's today (one of those jobs where everything goes wrong...), should have taken 2-3 hours so priced accordingly, ended up being more than 6 hours from keys in ignition to getting home.
Everything that could be difficult was difficult.
When I looked at the job I was sure the valves were both straight, gets there today and one is straight, the other is angled and I used my stock angled last week and didn't replace it, so 1 hour round trip to get another one, interrupted by my e-cig spewing e-liquid everywhere and not giving me a decent drag, luckily there's an e-cig cafe thing near Plumbfix...
2 drain off points in the bungalow - not on the rads that need new valves and all rads drop-fed so approx an hour for a drain down into jugs and buckets at a snails pace to minimise the risk to the beige carpets.
Didn't have a key that would fit the old tails so ended up having to disassemble a bedroom unit to get one jaw of my grips in the hole to lever it loose enough to undo it.
Ancient rads that were fixed with the two bottom clips and another clip either side, the screws from one of the side clips pulled their wooden dowel wall plugs out of the wall and it took way too long to repack the holes enough to get a decent fix again.
Old valve was a good inch longer than the new valve so couldn't do a straight swap so had to cut back and put a new short length of copper on, pipes painted with gloss that the super-glue creators would be proud of (not a biggie, but just another one of the many things that stopped this job being a simple swap)
Lockshield started peeing from the gland as soon as I touched it, whipped the top part off to find the biggest gap I've ever seen in a gland type valve before, took about 20 wraps of PTFE to stop it, until I was filling up again when it decided it would need another 10ish wraps.
1st rad sorted.
Gets to 2nd rad and discover it's still full of water when cracking the valve nut. Took another 15 mins to carefully drain into a jug/bucket, got the old valve and tail off, sticks the new tail and valve in, goes to tighten up the 15mm connection to the feed - the old conex is imperial thread ! The old olive had been gorillad on the pipe so took a while to hacksaw it and split with a screwdriver. Gets the new olive and nut on and tighten up.
Woohoo! Job finished at last!!! I just have to refill now and turn the boiler back on.
Turned mains water back on and refilled all radiators except one of the ones I have sorted, open vent system and just no way the water wants to get back in that rad, doesn't really make sense as this rad shares a drop with the one on the other side of the wall, anyway I tell the customer I'll bleed it with the pump running and hope a bit of pressure from the pump will convince the water to co-operate, so just need to turn the heating on now.
Goes to the boiler, a glow worm 45-60 and the pilot isn't lit. This is strange as I saw it lit at the start of the job and followed the instructions on the boiler casing which said turning the temp control to off will stop the boiler firing but keep the pilot lit.
Followed the instructions on the boiler for re-lighting the pilot for a good 40 minutes without any joy whatsoever (there's a mini-me inside my head crying his eyes out at this point).
It said turn the gas control knob to the pilot position and press while repeatedly pressing the ignition, thing is there was no obvious marker on the gas control knob to tell you what the pilot position was, it turned a little maybe 20degrees or so but was sprung so that it returned to its original position, so I tried relighting it without turning and also with turning the little bit that it would turn.
After 40 minutes or so of trying this and the customer telling me the gas man who used to relight his boiler wasn't a gas man any more and also that one guy lit it by taking the inspection widow off the combustion chamber and sticking matches in - I gave up, I told him he needs a gas engineer to come out and strongly advised him not to use matches or take the inspection window off.
So, after the epic wall of text above I finally get to the point.
Is that how you light the pilot on a glow worm 45 60, or did I miss something?
