Discuss Greenstar 24i Junior (LPG) problem in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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myles

Gas Engineer
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Evening all,

Has anyone came across an issue where the boiler will light then 2-3 seconds later goes out sounds like its being snuffed out not like when no flame rectification, I have checked everything I can think of relating to the gas/air mix. Changed the gas/air mix manifold at back of fan as the flaps were stiff, tried resetting gas valve, changed rubber gas pipe as it was looking a bit iffy (cracking) cleaned main heat ex and flushed condensate through new gasket and electrode set, flue is clear as far as I can tell (vertical flue) good pressures at valve too. British gas were looking after it before the place went into administration and this boiler has had a new fan and plate hex recently however it wasn't working when I arrived and gas was isolated so guessing it is an ongoing problem! Spoke with Worcester tech and basically I have tried everything they had said even put another gas valve on just in case that was the problem but no difference! Fault finding chart has not been much help either. error code is slow flash normally off with reset light on which correlates to ignition fault which I ran through the list to no avail. This has been a head scratcher today to be honest! :89:

Any help would be much appreciated!

Thanks

Myles
 
Bottles or tank? You say good pressures have you checked with two gauges ( one at chb other at ISO on incoming? Had a fire on bottles, that the changeover was goosed.
 
Sorry should have said lol its tank fed, no problems pressure wise unfortunately!
 
what pressure you got incoming to boiler?
 
As far as I can see it is all clear, might have to get my inspection camera in there lol
 
As far as I can see it is all clear, might have to get my inspection camera in there lol

yea since you have gas supply (and new gas valve) new spark as well

did you try lighting with front off aswell?
 
Yep, if it's not the flue then God knows as I have checked everything! Three properties there and so many issues with the installs from non gas isolation valves, hotplate mounted onto combustible workspace with scorch marks, split cooker hoses, 20+ meter long condensate runs the list goes on!
 
Yep, if it's not the flue then God knows as I have checked everything! Three properties there and so many issues with the installs from non gas isolation valves, hotplate mounted onto combustible workspace with scorch marks, split cooker hoses, 20+ meter long condensate runs the list goes on!

if its not the flue, it might be easier in the long run to get Worcester techs out to fix it least they will have any parts on the van/near by
 
if its not the flue, it might be easier in the long run to get Worcester techs out to fix it least they will have any parts on the van/near by

ive had a couple like this on natural gas where it will light green light on for a few seconds and then go out....I did everything you did, changed electrodes, cleaned heat ex, checked leads for continuity, checked pressures.....one guy before me changed fan....in the end cos I couldn't think what else to do so I replaced the pcb and it worked fine. Since then I have had the same problem twice and found if I changed electrodes and pcb it was ok.
 
Daft question buddy what colour is the data plate? Is the code plug lanyard still attached? What fan depression are you getting on the white test point on the banana? Oh and does the ionisation led light at all.
 
Moogwai next time try disconnecting and reconnecting the main low voltage plug from the board a few times. Sometimes is a bit of tarnish on the pins.
 
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