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mutley racers

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Good evening all. I have a client who has just bought a pretty big house. Lots or rads. Any way, the bottom floor is concrete and all pipes drop down walls and along skirtings. She hates it. She wants them hidden. I said we could batten the skirting out and run behind there. She doesn't like that option. She wants them buried in the walls. All brick by the way. Messy I told her.

My question is really, would you guys do this? Is there a better way? I think it will be about half a day to do each rad as ceilings are like 3 metres and then another 5 metre runs to big rads. I wouldn't like to be the chippy who has to put those skirtings back as all walls wobbly so no more nails won't do the trick. Squeeky bum time
 
if shes willing to pay you dont see a problem as long as the pipes are protected
 
Tracking the floors is a good option.
Just mark out the runs and get the client to do the tracking or builder if he's on site.
 
Not as much mess tracking the floors and its better because the pipe can terminate at the rad valve location.
 
I'll do that if the customer wants it. Usually hire a wall chaser....creates a lot of dust even with extractor! If it's too much for me I just sub the wall prep out to a builder.(Then it's an easy plumbing job.) Pressure test then denso tape & mark/map where pipes are....
 
I'll do that if the customer wants it. Usually hire a wall chaser....creates a lot of dust even with extractor! If it's too much for me I just sub the wall prep out to a builder.(Then it's an easy plumbing job.) Pressure test then denso tape & mark/map where pipes are....

Parquet flooring downstairs so not an option.

How do you run pipes, pressure test and wrap in denso? Or do you just.cover the front?
 
use plastic coated pipe, always pressure test before sealing back in wall, buy a wall chaser as part of the job cost only a ÂŁ100 or so for one from screwfix.
 
The chase needs to be deep enough so the pipes are clipped away from the masonry. Then I pressure test. Finally wrap in denso or use the plastic coated as suggested above
 
I think I'd be worried about chasing the walls horizontally for lengths like 5 metres. Could be weakening them at the point of greatest load. Vertical chases should be OK.
 
Tricky if the internal route walls are single corse, as most are. Something i wouldnt do
 
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The fabric of the building is cavity. Usually the render on these old buildings is quite thick, so I would have thought only a little of the brick will need to be chased?
 
It was just a thought, with a bit of planning it could possible to run the pipes to an outlet box behind each rad with no connectors in the wall.
 
It was just a thought, with a bit of planning it could possible to run the pipes to an outlet box behind each rad with no connectors in the wall.

Now that sounds interesting. I have not heard of these outlets before. I shall have a looksy online. Thanks
 
I'll do that if the customer wants it. Usually hire a wall chaser....creates a lot of dust even with extractor! If it's too much for me I just sub the wall prep out to a builder.(Then it's an easy plumbing job.) Pressure test then denso tape & mark/map where pipes are....

Having chased my kitchen walls for new wiring, yeah, one hell of a mess even with an extractor! I would suggest covering the pipes with a plastic or metal cover under the plaster, means you shouldn't get cracking from pipes moving as they expand if buried in solid plaster.
Instead of chasing walls would the client be happy with smallbore inside clip-on trunking? Looks quite neat when painted/papered to match the walls.
 
Having chased my kitchen walls for new wiring, yeah, one hell of a mess even with an extractor! I would suggest covering the pipes with a plastic or metal cover under the plaster, means you shouldn't get cracking from pipes moving as they expand if buried in solid plaster.
Instead of chasing walls would the client be happy with smallbore inside clip-on trunking? Looks quite neat when painted/papered to match the walls.

Don't think they want to see pipes going to the rad
 
No pipes or boxing's in sight. All hidden. Not quite sure how the connection units works but won't you ser a pipe come from behind rad and then drop to get into the valve as valve inlet is lower than rad
 
I've chased 15mm copper into walls before in a large bungalow, it was a new build so no worry about the mess. I soldered up the drops then pulled tubular hair felt over and nailed into position with wire mesh on top to stop cracking.
 
I meant that that there will be a radiator on the wall (which is visible) which the pipe run ultimately feeds.
 
I meant that that there will be a radiator on the wall (which is visible) which the pipe run ultimately feeds.

I get ya. Sorry. What I would like is for the pipe to come straight out of the wall an elbow straight into valve. Nice and neat. Not much pipework on show. Seems it will be hard to achieve though
 
Any towel rails I've ever done the pipe exits the wall then a soldered elbow into the valve.
Neatest way possible.
And always insulate the pipe with 13mm wall armaflex.

With mlcp I'll use a chrome compression and finish off with chrome rad snaps.
 
Think I will go for the 10mm hep in the wall and to outlet boxes suggested above. What wold people use to insulate the pipe and protect the plaster from cracking. Ideally one thing that does both and is slim
 
Think I will go for the 10mm hep in the wall and to outlet boxes suggested above. What wold people use to insulate the pipe and protect the plaster from cracking. Ideally one thing that does both and is slim

I've not read through the full thread, only the last few posts so apologies if this is out of context.

Slip some stitched hair felt over whichever pipe you're using before plastering in. This will absorb the movement in the pipe but won't give as good insulation as climaflex.

If you're chasing pipes in to a supporting wall there is a limit to how deep you can chase which would also affect your choice of insulation.
 
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