How to connect to toilet plastic valve

[kasser]

I have a flexi pipe currently connecting the isolating valve in the cold feed to the plastic valve at the bottom of my toilet cistern.

Even I can see that the flexi pipe is bent way too much and way too sharply. Sooner or later, it's going to spring a leak. However, due to the location of both ends, it is not possible to have the flexi pipe any other way. In any case, flexis have a very bad rep on this site.

So what fitting should I use to connect to the plastic end? The isolating valve will take a compression fitting with female thread at one end I think? Pictures or links will be helpful.
Thanks.

 

[Old Account]

Hi Kasser,

Welcome along.

Could I ask you to upload a picture? Perhaps the best way would be ridgid pipework.

 

[Harvest Fields]

Agree with above. A picture would help massively.

 

[kasser]

I don't seem to be able to post a pic. Let's try this dropbox link to the picture:
Dropbox - toilet.JPG

Otherwise, it's a very standard connection. Nothing new or unusual at all with the current setup.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Works ta

How are you at plumbing diy ?

You will need 1m length of copper tube (15mm)

2 x 15mm compression elbows

1 x 15 -1/2 tap connector compression

1 x 15mm compression ISO valve (rob the nut and olive off)

Piece of pipe around 3-4" long out the valve

Compression elbows like in the pic (the pic is of guttering as I wasn't on my computer to draw it up)

And then the rest in straigh pipe and tap connector

Hope you understand if not just shout

 

[Harvest Fields]

Works ta

How are you at plumbing diy ?

You will need 1m length of copper tube (15mm)

2 x 15mm compression elbows

1 x 15 -1/2 tap connector compression

1 x 15mm compression ISO valve (rob the nut and olive off)

Piece of pipe around 3-4" long out the valve

Compression elbows like in the pic (the pic is of guttering as I wasn't on my computer to draw it up)

And then the rest in straigh pipe and tap connector

Hope you understand if not just shout

View attachment 30271

Don't mean to sound undermining here. but if you are an advanced DIYer I would solder the fittings and not use compression. It will look much smarter. But if you are not that confident then as above use compression.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Don't mean to sound undermining here. but if you are an advanced DIYer I would solder the fittings and not use compression. It will look much smarter. But if you are not that confident then as above use compression.

Or the pro way using a bender

 

[Harvest Fields]

Or the pro way using a bender

I struggle to put 2 x 90 degree bends in 12 inches apart. I wouldn't attempt that. I would give 2 x 45's a go on a bender though. That might work.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I struggle to put 2 x 90 degree bends in 12 inches apart. I wouldn't attempt that. I would give 2 x 45's a go on a bender though. That might work.

Problem is most diyers don't have access to trade grade tools

 

[Harvest Fields]

Problem is most diyers don't have access to trade grade tools

I understand mate. Was just trying to say that even before I was as GSR I would have given soldering a go. However the cost makes no sense if you are only going to use it the once.

 

[kasser]

1 x 15 -1/2 tap connector compression - is that what goes on the plastic valve end?
Is it this one? Why is it so cheap at less than a quid?
Toolstation sells it at 2 for £4.34.
Do they always come with a washer inside?

Compression ISO valve - this one?
There is already such a valve in place, are you asking me to replace it?

The only problem with all this is that the 2 elbows next to each other will take too much space. The vertical pipes are nearly aligned to each other. But that wasn't my question anyway - the tap connector was what I was after.

Bending the pipes would be the solution here I guess, but I don't have one. I might use a piece of plastic pipe and try to bend it ever so slightly, though the pipe will be so short it's going to be hard to, and there won't be clips holding it in place. It might put too much stress on the plastic valve end too.

Regarding soldering - I don't have the equipment. I'm too nervous too to have a big naked flame like this in the house.

Thanks.

 

[rpm]

If the valve works then there is no need to replace it.

If you can buy a shorter good quality flexi then loose fit it to the cistern then add a short piece of copper pipe between the flexi and the isolating valve to suit.
Wouldn`t try and bend plastic pipe to suit that.

 

[steadyon]

Buy a longer flexi and put a loop in it. Crude but effective.

 

[Harvest Fields]

Buy a longer flexi and put a loop in it. Crude but effective.

I don't like that. But each to there own.

 

[jtsplumbing]

Cant see where the copper pipe starts, if coming up from floor just lower service valve by 2" (50mm) or so