Oil and Multi fuel Stove Linkup - Part 1

[dlm4473]

View attachment Heating 01.pdf

Hello all,

I am looking for advice, insparation or just constructive critisim !

Currently renovating a house and will be installing a multi fuel boiler stove (Charnwood LA45iB - 10KW to heating, 2.5 to room).

Current heating is Danesmoor 15/19 oil boiler pumped to vented tank (on ground floor - hot flow rate is very poor). I have an ACV 160l unvented cylinder to solve this problem which I need to install asap (to get on with other tasks). My intention is to convert boiler to sealed system and install the tank BUT have pipework ready to go for installation of stove and buffer. This to avoid re pipping in a cramped cupboard space.

I have not yet designed pipework for Stove/Buffer (that will be part 2!) - but intend to extract heat from buffer with a Heat exchanger (thus keeping sealed system for rads and boiler).

Ideally the system will be as flexible and economic to run as possible so i do not want to prioritise boiler over stove or vice versa.

House is bungalow, approx 150msq with little room in loft. Insulation will be 90mm kingspan wall, 70mm kingspan floors and 400mm fibre in loft.

Attached at top is my current plan for installing the Water cylinder, - I would appreciate all and any views on the subject.

Thanks

 

[snowhead]

G3 qualified?

 

[dlm4473]

G3 only required in England and Wales snowhead

 

[Gray0689]

View attachment 17334

Hello all,

I am looking for advice, insparation or just constructive critisim !

Currently renovating a house and will be installing a multi fuel boiler stove (Charnwood LA45iB - 10KW to heating, 2.5 to room).

Current heating is Danesmoor 15/19 oil boiler pumped to vented tank (on ground floor - hot flow rate is very poor). I have an ACV 160l unvented cylinder to solve this problem which I need to install asap (to get on with other tasks). My intention is to convert boiler to sealed system and install the tank BUT have pipework ready to go for installation of stove and buffer. This to avoid re pipping in a cramped cupboard space.

I have not yet designed pipework for Stove/Buffer (that will be part 2!) - but intend to extract heat from buffer with a Heat exchanger (thus keeping sealed system for rads and boiler).

Ideally the system will be as flexible and economic to run as possible so i do not want to prioritise boiler over stove or vice versa.

House is bungalow, approx 150msq with little room in loft. Insulation will be 90mm kingspan wall, 70mm kingspan floors and 400mm fibre in loft.

Attached at top is my current plan for installing the Water cylinder, - I would appreciate all and any views on the subject.

Thanks

Sounds like a plan
You will need some sort of gravity heat leak for when house is up to temp
Simple cylinder stat on buffer wired to pump heat exchanger then pump out to rads ect
Can't see your plan
36x18 direct cylinder be plenty

 

[dlm4473]

Thanks, As store will be in loft space, I am proposing, instead of heat sink, another heat exchanger fed with mains cold to cool down tank on overheat using thermostatic let-by valve at 95 degrees or so. Also considering backup power supply to keep things going in a power cut - this more for the comfort side of things rather than safety - but all the same one more level of safety.

 

[Gray0689]

Thanks, As store will be in loft space, I am proposing, instead of heat sink, another heat exchanger fed with mains cold to cool down tank on overheat using thermostatic let-by valve at 95 degrees or so. Also considering backup power supply to keep things going in a power cut - this more for the comfort side of things rather than safety - but all the same one more level of safety.

Can't see that way passing building control

 

[albatross]

It seems overly complicated to me.
Fit a thermal store in the loft. Connect stove and boiler to it. Open system. Forget heat exch./unvented cyl/motorised valves/bypass. Thermal store will act as a buffer and a heat sink

 

[Gray0689]

It seems overly complicated to me.
Fit a thermal store in the loft. Connect stove and boiler to it. Open system. Forget heat exch./unvented cyl/motorised valves/bypass. Thermal store will act as a buffer and a heat sink

The hex is only if it's wanted to keep both systems separated
Your way is good too

 

[dlm4473]

It seems overly complicated to me.
Fit a thermal store in the loft. Connect stove and boiler to it. Open system. Forget heat exch./unvented cyl/motorised valves/bypass. Thermal store will act as a buffer and a heat sink

One of the problems is that there is no room (or money!) for the size of store that would be needed. What i'm basically doing is splitting a thermal store in two and seperating Heating from water = 2 shorter tanks. At the same time the systems are kept seperate as to be honest I am unsure how much either system will be used. I don't see the point in heating an entire thermal store (extra 300l or so) with an oil boiler - when i can just heat the rads directly, also without extra heatloss of tank and pipework.

Have valves, stats pumps etc lying around, no cost. heat exchangers £20 - 30 on ebay (SH) only expense I can see will be safety valves,overheat valves and loading valve. An off the shelf thermal store can't compete with that .

Can't see that way passing building control

This is what I mean (kind of) - this came from a solid fuel association manual as an example of "additional overheat protection". The same thing can be achieved with a HE , negating the need for extra coil in tank. Cold mains in - Discharge to drain. A heat exchanger/ overheat on gravity circuit, would also allow store to be lower or at same level as the stove, store would obviously be on a pumped circuit.

I struggle with the heat leak radiator thing i.e. -Assuming worst case scenario - house upto temp (rad valves closed) and water cylinder upto temp and store upto temp - (ignoring the fact that the stove has its own thermostat) I really dont understand how a heat leak rad of between 1KW and 25% total output [depending which advice you take] can dissapate 10KW of heat from the stove? Using an overheat system with HE ensures you can can dissapate all excess heat completely . Depending on size of HE which could be 30, 50 or even 100KW you can do it extreemly fast too. At 95 degrees this would prevent overheat before the P/T relief valve opens.

 

[Gray0689]

Are you planning to stay in this house or ever move
If it's not done to a recognised building control method you won't be able to sell house
If anything goes wrong your insurance most probably won't pay out either
Just my opinion

 

[dlm4473]

Good point - I had assumed that as long as requirements for safety were met, it wouldnt matter how. :sweatdrop: . I would have thought, especially as idea came from "solid fuel association" that it would be a recognised method.

Suppose i can always email a copy of final plans to local B.C. - they are pretty good up here if your asking for advice / confirmation.

 

[Howsie]

You will struggle without skin as well. Heat leak is there for a reason.

 

[Nostrum]

So is the heat exchanger fed off the store via a pump? And gravity off the stove into the store?

 

[dlm4473]

Howsie - the heat exchanger IS the heat leak !

 

[Killy Bing]

Howsie - the heat exchanger IS the heat leak !

thats silly

a heat leak has to be able to act on gravity in the event of power failure and be able to disperse a certain amount of the heat that the stove can generate !!!!

unless that's a bloody big heat exchanger !!!