Discuss Cast iron rad tails affixing in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net
Are you serious Shaun, would you be happy to put your name on the ptfe joint?loctite one is spot on
hemp looks to be a bit too much paste but doesnt matter
to clean them up carefully go round the thread as close to the rad as possible and cut the excess off with a hacksaw blade
Well I do know my clockwise from my anticlockwise. A mess? If I exhibited them at the Tate Modern would be worth a fortune.Look I appreciate that you are diy however both are a mess and I'm not convinced that the products used were applied in the correct rotation.
loctite one is spot on
hemp looks to be a bit too much paste but doesnt matter
to clean them up carefully go round the thread as close to the rad as possible and cut the excess off with a hacksaw blade
Are you serious Shaun, would you be happy to put your name on the ptfe joint?
Cheers but don`t need a leason, done 1/8 bsp to 10 or 12" pipe joints over the years, only on the bigger stuff in places like Battersea power station would they be acceptable.yes as thats how boss white and hemp goes
will give you an idea but he doesnt use enough hemp for my liking
Cheers but don`t need a leason, done 1/8 bsp to 10 or 12" pipe joints over the years, only on the bigger stuff in places like Battersea power station would they be acceptable.
You still saying the ptfe one is "Sweet as pie", how can somebody make a mess like that with a roll of tape is beyond me. And yes a little brass wire brush will make it sweet.
Hello Bogart,
Please don`t think that I am patronising You regarding this - my motive for asking about the Testing and my comments is for Safety reasons.
I am also thinking of future readers of this thread:
Are You testing with Compressed Air or Water and then pressurising with an Air compressor - I could not tell for certain from the photos but the hose looks like an Air hose ?
The reason why I ask is that testing with Compressed Air to 5 Bar can be very dangerous if there was any sudden leak or a push fit fitting blew off - or if a less experienced person than yourself disconnected the Test rig without relieving the pressure first.
A sudden leak at 5 Bar / approx. 74 PSI of Air Pressure is high enough to Blind or in fact have Air bubbles pushed through the skin into your veins - a possible `Killer` situation if they reached the Brain.
Air Testing to anything like this pressure is definitely not recommended because compared to pressurising Water the volume of Air that can be compressed is very large - hence the possible severe injuries that can be caused if anything goes wrong.
Regarding the Column Radiator `Feet` fixing I would put the screws at the back so that they are not immediately visible when looking at the Radiator.
I guess that there is only one screw hole because when the Radiator is on top of the Feet because it is so heavy the Feet are definitely not going anywhere - the screw is just to hold them in position especially when the Rad is being lifted on.
I am guessing that You will be painting the `Feet` to try and get a similar colour to the Radiators ?
You obviously know that you will also need the Radiator wall fixings which go through the Rads between the Columns and fix to the wall to prevent the Radiators falling forward or backwards ?
Chris
Hello Bogart,
Please don`t think that I am patronising You regarding this - my motive for asking about the Testing and my comments is for Safety reasons.
I am also thinking of future readers of this thread:
Are You testing with Compressed Air or Water and then pressurising with an Air compressor - I could not tell for certain from the photos but the hose looks like an Air hose ?
The reason why I ask is that testing with Compressed Air to 5 Bar can be very dangerous if there was any sudden leak or a push fit fitting blew off - or if a less experienced person than yourself disconnected the Test rig without relieving the pressure first.
A sudden leak at 5 Bar / approx. 74 PSI of Air Pressure is high enough to Blind or in fact have Air bubbles pushed through the skin into your veins - a possible `Killer` situation if they reached the Brain.
Air Testing to anything like this pressure is definitely not recommended because compared to pressurising Water the volume of Air that can be compressed is very large - hence the possible severe injuries that can be caused if anything goes wrong.
Regarding the Column Radiator `Feet` fixing I would put the screws at the back so that they are not immediately visible when looking at the Radiator.
I guess that there is only one screw hole because when the Radiator is on top of the Feet because it is so heavy the Feet are definitely not going anywhere - the screw is just to hold them in position especially when the Rad is being lifted on.
I am guessing that You will be painting the `Feet` to try and get a similar colour to the Radiators ?
You obviously know that you will also need the Radiator wall fixings which go through the Rads between the Columns and fix to the wall to prevent the Radiators falling forward or backwards ?
Chris
I thought screw at the back from an aesthetic point of view . Though in this position the radiator could more easily slip forward as the taller portion of the support is to the rear. I might actually put them on reversed ie screw to the front so the radiator is in a way pushed towards the wall in my mind supporting it better. Then maybe cover the screwhead with a white cap. Acova suggest 6 wall mounting brackets for my size of rad but I would not be happy it just being wall mounted as it weighs in at 78Kg when empty!I prefer the actual acova feet but more expensive.
i would want the screw at the back and maybe drill a second one.
I thought screw at the back from an aesthetic point of view . Though in this position the radiator could more easily slip forward as the taller portion of the support is to the rear. I might actually put them on reversed ie screw to the front so the radiator is in a way pushed towards the wall in my mind supporting it better. Then maybe cover the screwhead with a white cap.
Not sure why the 2 entries above appeared. I respect your views re the testing, always best to err on the side of caution. My method is to fill the rad with water with the orange handle valve closed. Then gradually open it once the compressor is ready. Increasing the pressure in 1 bar increments until I have the desired test pressure then close the orange valve. My opinion is then that there is actually very little actual air in the rad. As the cast iron rad are rated at 6bar but have supposedly been tested at 10 bar I only keep the 5 bar on for about 30 minutes. I will then drop it to 2 bar and leave overnight. Testing with water does help in indicating where, if any ,the leaks are.
Regarding the feet they are white to match the radiator. This is not the same rads as I have been testing.
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