Brass fittings

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Brass fittings

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850Rick

If i was to rip out a bath,and disconect the taps and decided i need to go out to get some thing would i fit a brass end stop on the end with an olive etc to make it safe.This is what they dont tell you at college
 
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Lets us no how you get on.Is snatching just a lazy way of doing things instead of draining down or is it about time and money?
 
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When part way through a job I don't like to leave customers or apprentices anything they can fiddle with that might have consequences.
 
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I'm sure she won't mind a few nice black marks on her nice £1000 cream carpet :) haha if its a cream carpet don't snatch!
 
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All this talk of snatching. You need to appreciate the difference between doing it on a sealed system and an open vented system. Once a sealed system has lost its initial pressure and the water in the system is at atmospheric pressure, the existing water in the system is a vacuum. Unless you introduce air into the system, in theory the water can not be released from the pipes, to see this in action, place a clear straw into a glass of water, hold your thumb over the straw and pull it out, most of the water will remain in the straw until your remove your thumb. The same happens to water in a heating system.

So as long as you don't allow more than one outlet to be open, you can quite easily change a trv on a sealed system, with minimal mess (always protect the surrounding areas though!).

You can not do the same on an open vented system, you need to create a vacuum by bunging the open vent and cold feed at the header tank. Also, never bung the feed and vent to a cylinder, it can cause the cylinder to implode!
 
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When snatching a rad valve, slacken the nut on the pipe very slightly & then disconnect the other nut on the tail side (block tail with bit of rag) & turn the valve out towards you & open to check no water coming out before you remove the valve.
 
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Well rick if I'm completely honest I would drain system down. And I know people are thinking why, I just have never used bungs yet and prefer draining as I would have perfect control over the situation. I am fitting a new rad on a sealed combi system Wednesday and I'm gunner try just releasing the pressure and having one end open at a time.
 
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Dannyparty92 said:
Well rick if I'm completely honest I would drain system down. And I know people are thinking why, I just have never used bungs yet and prefer draining as I would have perfect control over the situation. I am fitting a new rad on a sealed combi system Wednesday and I'm gunner try just releasing the pressure and having one end open at a time.
Click to expand...

If the rad is the same width just isolate valves and crack a nut and drain the rad opening the bleed to let air in. Catch water in a tray fill a bucket and then remove rad and hang new one in same place:)
 
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Too easy Kay jay the pipe work is under the floor with two stop ends on. I have some soldiering and bending to do :(. Buts thanks anyway! :) .
 
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Dannyparty92 said:
Well rick if I'm completely honest I would drain system down. And I know people are thinking why, I just have never used bungs yet and prefer draining as I would have perfect control over the situation. I am fitting a new rad on a sealed combi system Wednesday and I'm gunner try just releasing the pressure and having one end open at a time.
Click to expand...

If there is no auto vents open, then you are not going to have any bother changing a rad valve on a sealed system. Fair enough, you will have to consider if the carpets & wallpaper are too delicate to risk any water near them.
I changed a Trv in a room with carpet & wallpaper, on an open duel oil/solid fuel system a couple of days ago. Was in the house by myself. Bunged the two 15mm vents at exp tank with Speedfit stopends & the feed pipe plugged. Took me seconds to swap the valve using a towel to keep the carpet dry.
 
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Why don't you buy a set of bungs rick and practise using them at yours assuming you have an open vented system. Make sure you have faith in what you use round customers houses.
 
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My first rule of plumbing:
Never leave an open end on anything.

I always put screw on caps on isolators and valves as well. Kids like to play with valves and anyway they could fail. Caps also prevent dirt getting into isos which is number one reason for them leaking at the screw slot when turned off.
 
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Dannyparty92 said:
Well rick if I'm completely honest I would drain system down. And I know people are thinking why, I just have never used bungs yet and prefer draining as I would have perfect control over the situation. I am fitting a new rad on a sealed combi system Wednesday and I'm gunner try just releasing the pressure and having one end open at a time.
Click to expand...

I like this answer how ever im not sure what you mean by having one end open at a time?
 
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