Need a plumber to do a quick attic ballcock job - Liverpool

[robbieh]

Hi. Hope its okay to sign up just to look for a plumber.

I have a dripping overflow - I've been in the attic and identified the problem as the valve not shutting off properly. I've bent the arm and it has slowed it but not stopped - I suspect its a perished washer or some such. I'm smart enough to work things out (just) but not confident enough to change it myself.

I'm after a few quotes for someone to come and fix it - should just be a quick 1/2hr job to one of you experts.

I'm in the dovecot area of liverpool.

cheers

Robbie.

 

[dontknowitall]

If you've an adjustable spanner and willing to give it a go we can give you instructions, and what to buy. It's a pretty simple job, even for a novice. When it's easy for a plumber (who's had practice) it can be done in about 10 minutes.

 

[robbieh]

If you've an adjustable spanner and willing to give it a go we can give you instructions, and what to buy. It's a pretty simple job, even for a novice. When it's easy for a plumber (who's had practice) it can be done in about 10 minutes.

Thats very kind of you mate - I'm willing to have a crack.

 

[dontknowitall]

Excellent!!

There might well be a youtube video as well.

You'll need:
Towel
Adjustable spanner
Pump pliers if you have them - don't buy them if you haven't though - not necessary but might make the job slightly easier
Part II ball valve
Float for ball valve
15mm fibre washer


1. Turn off water.
2. Press down valve to check no water coming out.
3. Put down under pipework if you're worried about water spillage (possibly 3-4 glasses worth)
4. Undo brass nut joining pipe to valve (might be chrome on a service valve)
5. Undo outside plastic nut.
6. Remove ball valve
7. Remove bits of fibre washer on pipe
8. Clean pipe as best you can (towel/kitchen roll, stanley knife, etc)
This cleaning is not totally necessary but does help you make a better leak free joint

9. Take off outside plastic nut from ball valve
10. Poke ball valve through side of tank
11. Put on plastic nut but don't tighten - just a few turns
12. Put fibre washer on service valve/pipe end
13. Tighten up brass nut about hand tight
14. Tighten up plastic nut by hand
15. Hold ball valve and tighten brass nut as best you can
16. Tighten up plastic valve
17. Tighten up brass nut without moving ball valve
18. Turn on water and hope it doesn't leak

The pump pliers will hold the ball valve better giving you less risk of a water seap/leak but it's perfectly possible using above method.


Please shout if you're unsure with anything!

 

[robbieh]

Doesnt sound too hard - I might give it a go. I'll buy the bits on the way home from work tomorrow. Thanks again for taking the time to type that up.

Meanwhile if anyone wants to give me a quote before I go and get the bits tomorrow (thur - 6pm), then I could be convinced to chicken out of doing it myself

 

[dontknowitall]

I usually charge £50-£60 (including bits).

 

[SimonG]

Excellent post from dontknowitall, the only thing I would add if there isn't a service valve is to add a 15mm isolation valve. If you get that onto the pipework leading to the tank first with the water off it means you can get the water turned back on downstairs and just isolate at the tank. Saves the legs from running up and down if you don't get it spot on first time.

 

[SimonG]

I usually charge £50-£60 (including bits).

Same here.

 

[helpsy]

£41 all in for me.

 

[dontknowitall]

£41 all in for me.

No wonder I'm quiet at the moment!

BUT - Good for you, Helpsy! I charged that sort of price last year but tried a higher price early this year and my earnings are up significantly for the same work rate.