Only a few months ago, I think August but it’s Scottish power who I don’t have much faith in doing anything except the basics. Engineer I think only did the annual checks.
The cold water seems ok. With just cold water there’s a bit of kick back and pressure on the hose. When I turn it to hot you can see the flow dropping off.
Cold water to the taps have decent pressure.
I have a vaillant ecotec pro 28 combi, the hot water pressure to all the taps have always been pretty low. I just got home from a few weeks away and I’m sure the hot water pressure is lower than before.
I have 2 bathrooms, en-suite with bath over shower and other bathroom just shower.
I’m in...
Thanks all for the input, it was the zone valve. Replaced now working fine slight weep from a fitting but need to part drain the system again and it’s too cold now. Just need find a local supplier of loctite 577 to guarantee no more leaks. Wish I just used it from the start.
It seems like all companies are much the same these days, cheap parts prob manufactured in the Far East then built/assembled in Europe.
Danfoss refrigeration parts used to be second to none and pretty much standard in many installs. Older parts would last many years now you replace them every...
I currently have caleffi valves that have been nothing but poor.
Which brand are bets now are all much the same. I was going to go with danfoss but was warned away also.
Thanks but that’s 1” bsp and 22mm, I’ve managed to find the correct part number for the 3/4” threaded female Honeywell V4043H 1007, just need to find one with quick turn around for delivery or local supplier.
Much appreciated for steering me this way. Less fiddling around and should be more...
I’d prefer to use Honeywell for reliability and the 22mm compression is the best they have that I can fit.
I actually found a 3/4 bsp port valve no brand on BES that’s half the price of one of the Honeywell’s but how long it’ll last I’ll never know.
Think I’ll just remove the isolation valve...
I thought that but the space is a bit tight. I would need to remove the isolation valve to make that work, right now the isolation valve has no purpose as you still need to drain down the whole system down to change the motorised valves.
All they seem to have are couplers... maybe I’m not explaining myself well.
One sides a
3/4 bsp isolation 1/4 turn valve
the others a motorised valve with a 22mm compression fitting
Hi,
Just wondering how I can go from a 3/4 bsp ball valve female to a 22mm compression fitting male.
I’ll be visiting some plumbers merchant today would be handy to know what to look out for.
Thanks in advance.
Since I have heat after the zone valve I would assume it’s open maybe just not fully.
Ok so my plan is to change the zone valves with Honeywell motorised valves in the next few days.
The original installer used a caleffi thermo zone vale commonly used for UFH, it’s just not realiable...
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