Rad valve identification

[RichardG63]

Hi all - this is my first post so please go easy.

I'm looking at having a TRV fitted to two radiators in a room in my house. I'm familiar with TRVs which operate a rad valve with a pin which is pushed and pulled by the TRV to open and close the valve. But my radiators have a valve of the following type fitted which needs to be turned in order to be closed:



I guess to install a TRV I would need to replace the valve body with a 'pin' style valve body. Is this correct? Or can I adapt the installed valve body to suit a pin style actuator/TRV?

Thank you in advance for any help,

Richard

 

[lame plumber]

cant see your pic, but a new trv needs a complete replacement no addaption possible

 

[RichardG63]

hi - tried re-inserting the image, hope it's visible this time...

And perhaps I'm not using 'TRV' correctly here... in the OP i mean by TRV the actuator, which acts on the valve body's pin... hope this clarifies?

 

[Keefy]

Not entirely sure what you're trying to say but if you want to replace the valve in the pic for a TRV then you'll have to remove that one and replace the whole thing with a TRV.

 

[PlumbBobBob]

richard you need to change the whole valve as lame plumber said

 

[RichardG63]

Thanks for the help.

Are these old valve bodies or something?

 

[Keefy]

Thanks for the help.

Are these old valve bodies or something?

Not really, they look like standard cheap contract ones to me.

 

[tamz]

Your valve is just a std wheelhead / lockshield. You can still get trv's with a 3/4 nut on the tail from the likes of bandq but they are garbage.

 

[RichardG63]

OK thanks very much. I'm planning to swap out one of each of the lockheads on each radiator with a TRV. So it looks like I'll need to adapt the connection to the rad too on these valves... Do you think that will be straightforward?

Also is there any regularity with regards to which side the lockhead is fitted vs the TRV?

 

[Keefy]

OK thanks very much. I'm planning to swap out one of each of the lockheads on each radiator with a TRV. So it looks like I'll need to adapt the connection to the rad too on these valves... Do you think that will be straightforward?

Also is there any regularity with regards to which side the lockhead is fitted vs the TRV?

TRV's are usually fitted to the flow side so let the system cool right down then turn it on and run round checking and marking which side gets warm first. You can also get bi-directional valves which can be fitted on either end.

 

[tamz]

Like anything else it is easy when you know how. Most valves these days are reversible flow so pick a pipe and swap it.

 

[Keefy]

Let us know how you get on mate.

 

[RichardG63]

Nice one everyone, thanks for the help

 

[WHPES]

You will need to get the old tail out using a radiator wrench

 

[RichardG63]

thanks for the help, and here's a photo of one of the valves I've replaced and I'm a bit unsure as to whether it's OK. You can see the lower nut is on straight, i'm confident of that. But the pipe leading into it is at a slight angle. Will there be a good enough seal there do you think?
Much appreciated.
Richard

 

[Keefy]

Take the valve back off, remove the PTFE and start again. Compression fittings shouldn't have any PTFE on them.

 

[Dannypipe]

LOL at all the PTFE!

Listen to Keefy. You don't need all that tape on the joint. It's doing more harm than good.

 

[Bunker]

Most valves these days are reversible flow so pick a pipe and swap it.

this is true but it wants to be accessible and as much in the open air as poss, ie not in a corner or behind a long curtain. It needs to get the room temp to be truly effective. So make considerations when selecting which end to deal with.

Oh and lol at the often, bless ;-P

 

[Dannypipe]

I'd always suggest it's kept on the flow (despite valves being bi-directional) as they can be a bit noisy on the return.

 

[gassafe]

Nothing says DIY like a bit of ptfe on the threads of a compression!

 

[tamz]

I hate seeing danfoss valves fitted vertically. Just don't look right.

Danfoss have a flow selector Danny. You turn it to suit the flow direction. The only true bi directional valves on the market afaik.

 

[Dannypipe]

I hate seeing danfoss valves fitted vertically. Just don't look right.

Danfoss have a flow selector Danny. You turn it to suit the flow direction. The only true bi directional valves on the market afaik.

Oh yeah, I have seen a picture of those. Very good idea. As you say, a true bi directional valve.

I've not personally fitted any myself.

 

[tamz]

You should. No more complaints of noise.

 

[RichardG63]

OK so I guess then that I'm not clear on where tape should be used... The rad tail has it applied there I think that's right. So where else should I use tape?

 

[Keefy]

OK so I guess then that I'm not clear on where tape should be used... The rad tail has it applied there I think that's right. So where else should I use tape?

You were right to use it on the rad tail, that's the only place you need it.

 

[Bunker]

You were right to use it on the rad tail, that's the only place you need it.

I often wind a little ptfe on the fitting side of the olive on a comp joint, especially on older connections. Just me?

 

[RichardG63]

Okey dokey so I'll drain the system and remove all PTFE (except on the rad tail).

When I was doing the work I noticed that on both the 3/4 and the 1/2 inch joints on the old valves (see the photo in the first post) there were remnants of what looked like tape; so i just did the same again when installing the new valves. You're saying I was wrong to do this? If there was tape on there in the first place then the original installer had put it on unnecessarily?

I also noticed that there were no olives on either joint of the old valves. Should I expect to find olives on either joint and if so is it time now to replace with new ones? I guess a compression joint does not necessarily contain olives...

 

[RichardG63]

what's wrong with having these kind of valves installed vertically tamz? I think they're a european product aren't they which are suited to EU style rads where the in/outlets are at the top and the head sits forward.

In general though I hope they're a good valve to have chosen... what do you think?

 

[Simon F]

Okey dokey so I'll drain the system and remove all PTFE (except on the rad tail).
When I was doing the work I noticed that on both the 3/4 and the 1/2 inch joints on the old valves
I also noticed that there were no olives on either joint of the old valves. Should I expect to find olives on either joint and if so is it time now to replace with new ones? ...

if the system is already filled and not leaking, leave it as is.

the 15mm vertical pipe will have had an olive,
the 3/4" union connection to the radiator is a different type of connection,
this would not have had an olive as the fitting makes it own seal when tightened up,
the threaded tail into the radiator needs to be sealed with "thread tape" (hence the name)

 

[RichardG63]

It's not really too much hassle to take 'em off and do it again... i've got to drain the system sometime again to do a few more valves... also I would prefer to do it right!

So to be clear: while refitting the new valve which is 15mm on both sides I believe (it's the danfoss valve pictured a bit further up) I do not need to apply tape on either joint.

And should I look to replace the olive on the vertical joint?