B
Ben21175
Hi All,
First time poster (apologies for not registering before). I am not a registered gas fitter, (I do not want to attempt any repairs myself), but I do want to get a '2nd' opinion/sanity check from a professional/experienced operator, so I can challenge the current firm working on our system and also perhaps learn/understand more.
We have a Buderus GB162-25/30 T40 S, installed from new, 5 years old now. Its never worked properly for us (IMO) - firstly it was installed during our house refit and was left with a permanent wired 'always on' by-pass - we weren't aware of this and when our gas bills came back as really high, we worked out or heating always delivered hot water to the radiators. The same installation firm couldn't find this 'error', despite 3 visits, changing the thermostat and eventually calling in the manufacturer - this was partially disguised by a '6A-227' error (Ionisation failure or words to that effect), which was attributed to some sort of special gas used in our area.
All was well when the same error returned after the summer 'CH off' period (HW has always been delivered correctly). The Buderus engineer who fixed it last time was unavailable, however his colleague came out and we had a service done. I was not home at the time, but apparently it was running 'to high' when warming the CH. He made some change(s) and replaced a part (one of the burners I think), and said the CH has been optimised.
However, now the CH only ever gets warm. EG - the thermostat is set to 22, the room temp is 19, the radiators Thermostatic valves on the radiators in room with Thermostat/timer set to max, yet they never get 'hot' - I can rest my hand on them and they feel warm only. This is across all the radiators and they have all been bled. HW works fine (V hot). Both dials (HW/CH temp) on the boiler are set to auto.
Previously, when (IMO) I thought it worked at the beginning of the year, the settings were all to the same configuration, but the radiators would get very warm (EG Not able to touch the radiator for more than a second or 2) when the CH heating timer/Thermostat was on. Once at temperature they would 'switch off' as I expected.
So my question is firstly do the scenario's as I described them make sense? Secondly - have I missed some logic busting research where CH should now be running 'warm' for some additional efficiency? If so could someone point to some links that explain the logic? Otherwise I'll be asking the engineer to come out again and reverse his optimisations.
Please ask if you need some additional information.
Thanks in advance,
Ben
PS - this is in Belgium, but my dutch isn't good enough to ask on local language forums!
First time poster (apologies for not registering before). I am not a registered gas fitter, (I do not want to attempt any repairs myself), but I do want to get a '2nd' opinion/sanity check from a professional/experienced operator, so I can challenge the current firm working on our system and also perhaps learn/understand more.
We have a Buderus GB162-25/30 T40 S, installed from new, 5 years old now. Its never worked properly for us (IMO) - firstly it was installed during our house refit and was left with a permanent wired 'always on' by-pass - we weren't aware of this and when our gas bills came back as really high, we worked out or heating always delivered hot water to the radiators. The same installation firm couldn't find this 'error', despite 3 visits, changing the thermostat and eventually calling in the manufacturer - this was partially disguised by a '6A-227' error (Ionisation failure or words to that effect), which was attributed to some sort of special gas used in our area.
All was well when the same error returned after the summer 'CH off' period (HW has always been delivered correctly). The Buderus engineer who fixed it last time was unavailable, however his colleague came out and we had a service done. I was not home at the time, but apparently it was running 'to high' when warming the CH. He made some change(s) and replaced a part (one of the burners I think), and said the CH has been optimised.
However, now the CH only ever gets warm. EG - the thermostat is set to 22, the room temp is 19, the radiators Thermostatic valves on the radiators in room with Thermostat/timer set to max, yet they never get 'hot' - I can rest my hand on them and they feel warm only. This is across all the radiators and they have all been bled. HW works fine (V hot). Both dials (HW/CH temp) on the boiler are set to auto.
Previously, when (IMO) I thought it worked at the beginning of the year, the settings were all to the same configuration, but the radiators would get very warm (EG Not able to touch the radiator for more than a second or 2) when the CH heating timer/Thermostat was on. Once at temperature they would 'switch off' as I expected.
So my question is firstly do the scenario's as I described them make sense? Secondly - have I missed some logic busting research where CH should now be running 'warm' for some additional efficiency? If so could someone point to some links that explain the logic? Otherwise I'll be asking the engineer to come out again and reverse his optimisations.
Please ask if you need some additional information.
Thanks in advance,
Ben
PS - this is in Belgium, but my dutch isn't good enough to ask on local language forums!
