As mentioned above, but not a full kit... I keep a few these on the van from screwfix : Flomasta Threaded Tap Glands 24mm x ½ Just £3 each, 5 min job. Make sure you get a good grip on both the tap and the old head when trying to remove or the tap might spin round and start leaking from below..
Bought 2 of these NiMH 3AH batteries on eBay for my aging dewalt tools. The batteries are made in China and look and feel like good quality items at a very good price. But be warned, they are rubbish. Both batteries from the off didn't seem to last as long as I hoped and I was constantly having...
The macerator idea is a good one, also have a look at Saniflo. I've serviced a few of these and they are not difficult to maintain. It's a utility room so the electrical connection should be easy enough and you could even plug an extra WC into it if you so desire..
I'm assuming it's open vented...
You could try capping the expansion at the F&E tank with a push fit fitting, bung the tank outlet with a rubber cork and just drain the rad in question, the rest of the system should airlock itself.
You probably need a new head unit on the motorised valve, you need to check if the valve actually moves when there is DHW demand and if so, check the signel output back to the control box, no movement or no signel output equals new head unit. If there is a 240v supply to the immersion heater...
The waste below the kitchen sink looks fine to me so long as the trap is clean. The problem may lie further along the waste (too mant tight elbows, waste running uphill behind the unit or outside the house). How fast does the sink drain? I've never been a fan of pumping dishwasher or washing...
One of these:
ebay.co.uk/itm/Rothenberger-Super-Fire-2-Blow-Brazing-Torch-Mapp-Gas-Welding-Plumbing-/172242135947?hash=item281a6e6b8b:g:6XEAAOSw5cNYLDDU
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