Unoccupied house advice needed.

[Douglas Ely]

Hi, we are going down under for 3 months in January and have been taking advice on what to do to avoid frozen water pipes etc. Trouble is we have had two conflicting views!


I should also say that our house insurers have no specific requirements relating to water/heating in these circumstances.


We have a Logic 15 boiler and rads throughout the three storey house, a Kingspan Range Tribune HE indirect hot water cylinder sealed system and associated bits, all of which is controlled by Danfoss TP9000 and a TP5000 on the top floor.


One firm told me to leave the system on as normal, and set the thermostat on low say 10/12 degrees. Then another advised draining everything down, turning water and boiler off, then recommissioning when we return.


I'd welcome views, particularly from professionals, of which is the best and safest solution, also if we could leave the system on a low temperature setting, but turn the water off at the mains stopcock, to at least avoid flooding if a leak did occur or if for some reason the boiler decided not to ignite.

 

[SimonG]

Stop tap off. And set thermostat to 10.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Agree with Simon but read the small print of your insurance / get it in writing as some say more than two months in winter drain down require else they won't pay out

 

[Deleted member 32524]

Void the water supply coming in and keep boiler ticking over at least once a day maybe add an antifreeze in to heating system pipes. Or void the lot gas included.

 

[Murdoch]

Make sure your neighbours have keys and keep a eye inside and out!

 

[Rob Foster]

Hi, we are going down under for 3 months in January and have been taking advice on what to do to avoid frozen water pipes etc. Trouble is we have had two conflicting views!


I should also say that our house insurers have no specific requirements relating to water/heating in these circumstances.


We have a Logic 15 boiler and rads throughout the three storey house, a Kingspan Range Tribune HE indirect hot water cylinder sealed system and associated bits, all of which is controlled by Danfoss TP9000 and a TP5000 on the top floor.


One firm told me to leave the system on as normal, and set the thermostat on low say 10/12 degrees. Then another advised draining everything down, turning water and boiler off, then recommissioning when we return.


I'd welcome views, particularly from professionals, of which is the best and safest solution, also if we could leave the system on a low temperature setting, but turn the water off at the mains stopcock, to at least avoid flooding if a leak did occur or if for some reason the boiler decided not to ignite.

get your gardener to look over your gaff when he looks after the outside , or get your best friend to call in often . we have a friend whom lives in our homes while we are away , he eats all the freezer and uses one of the cars but its the best way
centralheatking

 

[Aire]

I'd be tempted to drain the lot, you can keep your boiler ticking over but unless your going to have someone watch over the house you can't guarantee the boiler won't throw up a fault. If It gets cold and your condensate freezes your screwed.

 

[Chuck]

A few years ago, in a similar position: Left the heating on with thermostat at 10°C. Shut the water off at the internal stop-cock and also at the water meter in the street. Drained the water tanks (not the f/e tank). Got neighbour to visit once a week to move post and have a quick check round.

Insurers really don't like houses being left empty, read the fine print in the full policy.

 

[Douglas Ely]

Thanks to SimonG and the others who made sensible comments.

I have been through my Insurance paperwork with a fine toothcomb and there is no mention of any special requirements except to notify them when the house is "unoccupied", which is normally 60 days, BUT in the case of this policy and the club through which it was arranged the definition of "Unoccupied" is extended to a period of 180 days, for which I have a document of confirmation. Nevertheless I will ring Monday to check I haven't missed anything before I finally decide!

As regards neighbours, we're on a new build estate quite a few of which are buy to lets with the resulting transient population, and we don't really know anyone locally well enough to trust them with keys to our house, nor would I feel comfortable relying on any of them to do the regular inspections which some insurers insist on.

A couple of final questions if I may; firstly our TRVs are normally open on 3 as any higher and the house just gets too hot, is it okay to leave them at that with the lower (10C boiler setting or should we open them fully, secondly would it be best after turning the mains stopcock off to open the cold taps up and down to let some of the pressure out of the internal cold pipes?

Thanks in advance for any further advice.

 

[townfanjon]

Douglas , you cant do anymore than whats been suggested, but make sure you get the insurance 100% .
I am currently “fettling” another house which we will eventually move into , waters off , gas off , neighbours know the crack etc etc , but I still have to prove I have been there at least once a week , obviously I am there as much as possible, and this is a house thats gutted .

 

[Welder]

Douglas.
Having done more water damage insurance jobs than I could count, the approach you take must be a pragmatic one.
Any claimable leak will cause damage and, more importantly, will cost YOU as insurers NEVER pay everything.
So, when we go away all I do is turn off the main stop tap, drain down both the hot and cold water by opening the kitchen tap - and leaving it open - and setting the thermostat down to 10degs. Each TRV is then set to 1.
That way you have enough background heat to stop freezing but even if the boiler failed, and a pipe burst, the damage would be minimal.
Being tight, the 10degs means I'm burning less fuel too
There used to be a downside which was a bloomin cold house when you get back. With smart controls now tho I just stick it on before we set off back home so it's toastie

 

[Rob Foster]

Douglas.
Having done more water damage insurance jobs than I could count, the approach you take must be a pragmatic one.
Any claimable leak will cause damage and, more importantly, will cost YOU as insurers NEVER pay everything.
So, when we go away all I do is turn off the main stop tap, drain down both the hot and cold water by opening the kitchen tap - and leaving it open - and setting the thermostat down to 10degs. Each TRV is then set to 1.
That way you have enough background heat to stop freezing but even if the boiler failed, and a pipe burst, the damage would be minimal.
Being tight, the 10degs means I'm burning less fuel too
There used to be a downside which was a bloomin cold house when you get back. With smart controls now tho I just stick it on before we set off back home so it's toastie

We have a couple of holiday lets in North Cornwall which are un occupied january to march. the water is turned off and drained down. we leave the electricity on, and let the fridge and freezer chug away they create some residual heat, I also leave the 2x glazing on vent , we never have a problem over past 10 years, often leave the radio on bbc world service it sounds like people talking esp. late at night and a couple of lights in each on cheap timers
Rob Foster. aka centralheatking

 

[Pickwickpick]

We have a couple of holiday lets in North Cornwall which are un occupied january to march. the water is turned off and drained down. we leave the electricity on, and let the fridge and freezer chug away they create some residual heat, I also leave the 2x glazing on vent , we never have a problem over past 10 years, often leave the radio on bbc world service it sounds like people talking esp. late at night and a couple of lights in each on cheap timers
Rob Foster. aka centralheatking

BBC radio 4 (which broadcast the world service at night) on a cheap analogue radio and some timers is always my go to advise for clients/family/friends leaving houses unoccupied for any length of time.

 

[Douglas Ely]

As before thank you all for the advice and time taken, Yorkshire, Rob and Pickwick thanks for the further thoughts. I already have some light timers from when we lived in a less desirable area, so can press them into use again, and the radio idea is sound as well.

I've just spoken to insurers again and there is definitely no requirement with this policy and its club extension to notify them unless the "Unoccupied" period is 180 days or more, neither are there any special conditions relating to draindown or visits. I guess things like that would come into play if the absence was to go over the 180 days (more likely a refusal of cover though).

Again thank you all.