Condensing boiler installed by local Gas Safe plumber in 2014, not combi. Failed a couple of weeks ago with flashing blue light which googling suggests means no gas, blocked flue or blocked condensate pipe. There is gas, the flue is clear, and the condensate pipe goes into the under-sink waste pipe. We have disconnected the pipe right back to under the boiler and let it drip in a bucket, so it's not that.
I have had the plumber back but he's pretty much given up. He swapped out the pump, but that didn't help. He wonders about the 2 motorised valves in the airing cupboard, around the pump, but doesn't want to charge me £300 knowing that it might make no difference.
I could get Worcester Bosch to take a look for £300, but they might find no fault with the boiler, and walk away.
When the boiler fails and I want to try to get it going again, I rotate the right hand thermostat knob anticlockwise to "RESET" for a few seconds, and then clockwise to about 1 o'clock - it makes some noises for about a minute, then usually fails back to the flashing blue light.
The workaround: I have figured out a way of making it work - if the room thermostat / timer schedule is calling for heat, and I boost the hot water, and then do a RESET, it fires and happily works for the rest of the day.
On Saturday, I set the HW schedule 15 minutes ahead of CH, and it all worked happily for the rest of the day.
On Sunday, the same it didn't work, and I had to do my manual routine to get it to work - which it did for the rest of the day.
Middle of the day today, after I had manually started CH and HW briefly first thing with a RESET, I boosted HW when the CH was not calling for heat (scheduled OFF), and it fired up fine.
If I was being light-hearted, I would just say that it really doesn't like getting up in the morning, like my teenagers.
Does any of that make sense to anyone? The boiler doesn't seem to be broken as it's functional. But it's much happier when CH and HW are required at the same time.
Could it have a dodgy sensor?
Could it be because CH and HW at the same time makes the motorised valves do something which impacts the boiler (in a good way) but when they are not on together, the boiler fails? Some kind of back pressure which is tripping a sensor cutoff?
Could a Worcester engineer work out the cause because there is a diagnostic port that gives more detail than the unhelpful flashing blue light?
Driving me nuts. Trying to avoid spending £600 and being no further forward. Thanks in advance.
I have had the plumber back but he's pretty much given up. He swapped out the pump, but that didn't help. He wonders about the 2 motorised valves in the airing cupboard, around the pump, but doesn't want to charge me £300 knowing that it might make no difference.
I could get Worcester Bosch to take a look for £300, but they might find no fault with the boiler, and walk away.
When the boiler fails and I want to try to get it going again, I rotate the right hand thermostat knob anticlockwise to "RESET" for a few seconds, and then clockwise to about 1 o'clock - it makes some noises for about a minute, then usually fails back to the flashing blue light.
The workaround: I have figured out a way of making it work - if the room thermostat / timer schedule is calling for heat, and I boost the hot water, and then do a RESET, it fires and happily works for the rest of the day.
On Saturday, I set the HW schedule 15 minutes ahead of CH, and it all worked happily for the rest of the day.
On Sunday, the same it didn't work, and I had to do my manual routine to get it to work - which it did for the rest of the day.
Middle of the day today, after I had manually started CH and HW briefly first thing with a RESET, I boosted HW when the CH was not calling for heat (scheduled OFF), and it fired up fine.
If I was being light-hearted, I would just say that it really doesn't like getting up in the morning, like my teenagers.
Does any of that make sense to anyone? The boiler doesn't seem to be broken as it's functional. But it's much happier when CH and HW are required at the same time.
Could it have a dodgy sensor?
Could it be because CH and HW at the same time makes the motorised valves do something which impacts the boiler (in a good way) but when they are not on together, the boiler fails? Some kind of back pressure which is tripping a sensor cutoff?
Could a Worcester engineer work out the cause because there is a diagnostic port that gives more detail than the unhelpful flashing blue light?
Driving me nuts. Trying to avoid spending £600 and being no further forward. Thanks in advance.
