Which fitting for trite on shower replacement?

[Halliday25]

Hi there,

First time changing a shower or any sort of plumbing work really. Previously had an old Gainsborough shower unit which packed up yesterday, so I’ve bought a tritron easi fit today with the hope that it would require minimal effort haha. Only issue I have is the water pipe on my previous unit was slightly different so I’m wondering what I’ll need for this one to connect the water to the unit? Sorry for the newbie question I’m pretty clueless lol. Some sort of pipe with 90 degree angle

Thanks

 

[Deleted member 120897]

A compression elbow, likely 15mm.

 

[fowlerboi]

It looks like the chrome pipe comes down the wall and straight into a push fit fitting facing upwards on your old shower.

You'll need to buy a compression elbow and possibly a compression coupling as well depending on how far away from the pipe you need to sit the shower. Don't buy push fit as it doesn't like the chrome and its not worth getting into that discussion.

I've only done one triton easi-fit and ended up having to put in a new cable and cold feed (it backed onto an old airing cupboard) because it was far from easy and wasn't possible to fit. Don't be scared to take that shower back and get a better suited one for your cable and pipe entry or you may end up with holes in the wall that are on show

It looks like an Aqualisa Quartz electric would fit that situation pretty well.

 

[Halliday25]

It looks like the chrome pipe comes down the wall and straight into a push fit fitting facing upwards on your old shower.

You'll need to buy a compression elbow and possibly a compression coupling as well depending on how far away from the pipe you need to sit the shower. Don't buy push fit as it doesn't like the chrome and its not worth getting into that discussion.

I've only done one triton easi-fit and ended up having to put in a new cable and cold feed (it backed onto an old airing cupboard) because it was far from easy and wasn't possible to fit. Don't be scared to take that shower back and get a better suited one for your cable and pipe entry or you may end up with holes in the wall that are on show

It looks like an Aqualisa Quartz electric would fit that situation pretty well.

It looks like the chrome pipe comes down the wall and straight into a push fit fitting facing upwards on your old shower.

You'll need to buy a compression elbow and possibly a compression coupling as well depending on how far away from the pipe you need to sit the shower. Don't buy push fit as it doesn't like the chrome and its not worth getting into that discussion.

I've only done one triton easi-fit and ended up having to put in a new cable and cold feed (it backed onto an old airing cupboard) because it was far from easy and wasn't possible to fit. Don't be scared to take that shower back and get a better suited one for your cable and pipe entry or you may end up with holes in the wall that are on show

It looks like an Aqualisa Quartz electric would fit that situation pretty well.

Thanks for the reply mate, I did manage to sort it out by buying one of these flexy copper pipes, trimming a bit off the existing pipe and using two couplers on either end. Don’t know how much of a bodge job this is but it seems to work fine lol, I’ve attached pics

 

[fowlerboi]

Very DIY but nice thinking outside the box. I'm impressed

 

[gpbeck]

Plumbing looks good but earth continuity is relying on a floating choccy connector which is a worry. Twist and Solder earth wires to be certain? Or even a WAGO would be better.

 

[Deleted member 120897]

earth continuity is relying on a floating choccy connector which is a worry.

Which one? I can only see a fixed one.

 

[Basher]

Which one? I can only see a fixed one.

It looks like the earth core of the incoming red & black mains cable goes to a choc block, then to a short length of yel/green wire and then to the shower earth block. Now the unit is presumably fixed on the wall, assuming the cable earth is long enough, it would be better to put the T&E earth core directly in the shower earth block, to avoid using that additional choc block.

 

[Halliday25]

Thanks for for feedback everyone. I did connect the earth and screwed it in correctly so it’s not going to move, happy for feedback through it’s the first time doing anything like this?

 

[Halliday25]

Thanks for for feedback everyone. I did connect the earth and screwed it in correctly so it’s not going to move, happy for feedback through it’s the first time doing anything like this?

It looks like the earth core of the incoming red & black mains cable goes to a choc block, then to a short length of yel/green wire and then to the shower earth block. Now the unit is presumably fixed on the wall, assuming the cable earth is long enough, it would be better to put the T&E earth core directly in the shower earth block, to avoid using that additional choc block.

Do you mean the plastic thing on the yellow and green wire? As in it would be safer to get rid of that and just soldier straight to the wire on the unit?

 

[Basher]

Do you mean the plastic thing on the yellow and green wire? As in it would be safer to get rid of that and just soldier straight to the wire on the unit?

Yes. The bare copper earth wire in the incoming mains cable, which seems to have black insulation tape around it (ideally should be green/yellow sleeving) should be screwed directly into the white earth terminal block on the shower unit.

This will dispose of the short length of grn/yel wire with the 'plastic thing' as you describe it.
The plastic thing is functionally the same as the white version on the shower, so you don't need both.
They get called 'choc block' because when you buy a strip of them it looks a bit like a bar of chocolate. And many years ago they were brown in colour!
Sorry for the confusion caused!

 

[gpbeck]

The earth of an electric shower is critically important. Who wants a 240V shower? The choccy block even if tightened well is still subject to movement and they can loosen off or the crimped copper wire can snap at that compression point. Better to replace it with a solder joint if original cable conductor is too short. Or a WAGO connector which doesn’t damage the conductor.

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