Where should I connect my garden tap pipe?

[makido]

Hi everyone,

I'm about to install a garden tap pipe on a new build, but I'm a bit confused with the pipework I'm seeing under the kitchen sink. Here is a picture of what I'm seeing:

• Pipe A - Cold water pipe.
• Pipe B - Behind the wood plank, B connects to a valve that shuts down the entire water flow. I suppose this is the main water pipe.
• Pipe C - This pipe leads back in into the wall.
• Pipe D - Hot water pipe.

Can anyone help me understand what is pipe C and where is it going? If I were to install a garden tap, where would I place a Tee fitting? on pipe A or would I swap one of those elbows leading to pipe C with a Tee fitting and use that?

Thank you

 

[Deleted member 120897]

Odd setup, as hot is usually on the left. The pipe going into the wall will feed any other cold inlet/outlet you have, so yes, providing that is cold you can swap the elbow for a tee and branch off that.

 

[gmartine]

That's alot of brass, beats paying for a plumber I suppose.

 

[snowhead]

As ChrisB, replace either elbow with a Tee, pointing whichever way suits best.

Pipe C will be going to either Unvented cylinder or combi boiler and other cold outlets in the property, probably along the same route as pipe D which will be bringing Hot back along that route.

 

[fowlerboi]

A new build was left plumbed under the sink like that?!

 

[Chuck]

Are you in a hard water area? If so, my guess is that the original plan was for B to be the hard-water feed to a softener (or perhaps a filter) and C was to receive the treated water. The kitchen tap has to be supplied direct from the (unsoftened) mains.

You don't want to supply a garden tap with softened water, so I'd take it from the 'B' side rather than the 'C' side in case someone ever does want to install a softener.

Professional plumbers don't use brass compression-fittings without good reason. Perhaps the spec changed late in the day and there wasn't space to get a torch or press in?

All speculation, of course, but I do love a puzzle.

 

[makido]

Are you in a hard water area? If so, my guess is that the original plan was for B to be the hard-water feed to a softener (or perhaps a filter) and C was to receive the treated water. The kitchen tap has to be supplied direct from the (unsoftened) mains.

You don't want to supply a garden tap with softened water, so I'd take it from the 'B' side rather than the 'C' side in case someone ever does want to install a softener.

Professional plumbers don't use brass compression-fittings without good reason. Perhaps the spec changed late in the day and there wasn't space to get a torch or press in?

All speculation, of course, but I do love a puzzle.

Should I solder compression fittings or would you say closing them tight should be enough?

 

[gmartine]

Nothing wrong with using compression if you can't solder or circumstances dictate.

If you are confident, can solder and have the kit fine. I'd probably replace that double elbow union while adding the external tap connection just because, well it looks so wrong. Just bare in mind there'll probably be some sitting water in the vertial pipes if you can't drain or vac it out and that'll affect your ability to solder it.

 

[gmartine]

Oh and somebody scribbled "Phuck" on the cabinet back wall, I reckon it was the kitchen fitters.

 

[Ric2013]

Should I solder compression fittings or would you say closing them tight should be enough?

You do not solder compression fittings. They work by compression.

A new build was left plumbed under the sink like that?!

Weird, huh? I thought the standard for new builds was gaffer-taped joints.

 

[king of pipes]

Hhmmm I am a bit concerned that if you don't know the difference between compression fittings and a soldered fitting it maybe better to employ a plumber to do this small job, it's quite a simple job for someone who has the correct tools and skills and you have piece of mind it's been done to the water regulations and without leakage. Kop