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OP
KarlAtkins

KarlAtkins

have you turned all valves back on after you filled
Which valves? If you mean radiator valves I never turned each one off.
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You should see a brass screw in the centre of the pump, just slacken this until air/water comes out, re tighten, if you have a gas fired boiler then you won't be able to access this if inside the boiler casing, some modern pumps don't have any bleed screw on the front and just suggest running the pump on full speed (3) for 30 minutes, others, like mine, have a mode which alters the pump speed up and down for 10 minutes to expel any air,
Ok thanks, yes pump is accessible and separate from the boiler. It is noisy in a gurgling sort of way. I'll see if I can get any air out of it now
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You should see a brass screw in the centre of the pump, just slacken this until air/water comes out, re tighten, if you have a gas fired boiler then you won't be able to access this if inside the boiler casing, some modern pumps don't have any bleed screw on the front and just suggest running the pump on full speed (3) for 30 minutes, others, like mine, have a mode which alters the pump speed up and down for 10 minutes to expel any air,
So i realised the screw and a tiny amount of air cam out but nothing much to speak of
 
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OP
KarlAtkins

KarlAtkins

You should see a brass screw in the centre of the pump, just slacken this until air/water comes out, re tighten, if you have a gas fired boiler then you won't be able to access this if inside the boiler casing, some modern pumps don't have any bleed screw on the front and just suggest running the pump on full speed (3) for 30 minutes, others, like mine, have a mode which alters the pump speed up and down for 10 minutes to expel any air,
After releasing the small amount of air in the pump and turning the system back on it is doing the same thing, boiler turns off after about 60 seconds.
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Numerous ways. Depends on the type of system.

That's the beauty of plumbing, all looks a piece of cake till something goes wrong.
I wouldn't dream of touching any of the main components tbf, all I have done is removed a radiator to allow plastering access. The real bummer of it is I've just paid a deposit for all the old stuff in the airing cupboard to be replaced and moved to the loft in 3 weeks time and now I'm spending money on this old one. So the system is a sealed system with the sealed expansion tank. The water which also isn't working is a cylinder fed from tank in loft.
 
J

John.g

Can you now see where the Expansion vessel is located in relation to the pump, ideally it should be teed into the system just before the pump inlet, also what is the pressure, this might be displayed on the boiler front or close to the filling valve for your system, it should be ~ 1.3/1.5 bar when cold, if you bleed some water off the system, say from a rad vent, does the pressure fall.?.
 
OP
KarlAtkins

KarlAtkins

Can you now see where the Expansion vessel is located in relation to the pump, ideally it should be teed into the system just before the pump inlet, also what is the pressure, this might be displayed on the boiler front or close to the filling valve for your system, it should be ~ 1.3/1.5 bar when cold, if you bleed some water off the system, say from a rad vent, does the pressure fall.?.
The expansion vessel is in the loft, the pump is in an airing cupboard in the room below. Yeah pressure when filled is 1.5bar. yes pressure drops when air is bled from radiator valves after refilling system and has to be topped up a couple of times during the process.
 
J

John.g

Is it a gas or oil fired boiler?. An airlock (if) in a oil boiler is easy to get rid of, the way I do it is turn the PRV red knob anti clockwise which lifts the valve off its seat and releases any air, some don't like doing this as the PRV can sometimes leak afterwards but mine never has in 15 years but with very clean system water, not easy to do in a gas fired boiler as you are not allowed to remove the boiler casing.
Is there any manual or automatic air vent fitted where the coil enters the hot water cylinder?, if not you could carefully break the compression fitting at the cylinder and see can you release any air there.

As a last resort you could again drain down the system with the diverter valve manually in mid position (boiler off) and then refill it but much more slowly than before and see what happens.
 
OP
KarlAtkins

KarlAtkins

Is it a gas or oil fired boiler?. An airlock (if) in a oil boiler is easy to get rid of, the way I do it is turn the PRV red knob anti clockwise which lifts the valve off its seat and releases any air, some don't like doing this as the PRV can sometimes leak afterwards but mine never has in 15 years but with very clean system water, not easy to do in a gas fired boiler as you are not allowed to remove the boiler casing.
Is there any manual or automatic air vent fitted where the coil enters the hot water cylinder?, if not you could carefully break the compression fitting at the cylinder and see can you release any air there.

As a last resort you could again drain down the system with the diverter valve manually in mid position (boiler off) and then refill it but much more slowly than before and see what happens.
It's a gas system. I have the casing off the boiler as wanted to check it was ignighted. I've re drained and I'm currently very slowly filling. Fingers crossed that it works but I'm not hopeful.
 

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