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Discuss wallplate elbow extender for shower arm in the Plumbing Forum | Plumbing Advice area at PlumbersForums.net

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I'm creating a new shower room. Its all open at the moment. The stud wall framing is built and I am looking at where to install the 15mm-1/2inch elbow for the shower head arm. The problem I have is that the standard elbows aren't deep enough for the wall that's going on the stud work. The shower arm would connect to the elbow in the wall which I'm not too happy about. Do you get longer/deeper elbows? I see there are extenders but that would have the same problem with a joint being in the wall. Is it the done thing to solder these extenders to the elbow.
I've attached pictures of the elbow and extender I'm talking about
Any advice gratefully appreciated
1592bd53-9b5c-4301-b9a4-4052bc1c799f__64718.1553263191.jpgae235.jpg
 
Using an extender is fine if your happy using compression fitting threaded joint no problem!
Only thing I would recommend is use loctite 55 on threaded joint not ptfe
 
Using an extender is fine if your happy using compression fitting threaded joint no problem!
Only thing I would recommend is use loctite 55 on threaded joint not ptfe
Thanks for your reply. Actually I was probably going to use a soldered elbow on reflection. On the use of an extender, my worry was that if I needed to unscrew the shower arm might the extender unscrew instead of, or as well as the arm?
[automerge]1606381076[/automerge]
Folks. @exedon2 rightly pointed out that if I'm happy with compression fitting then a threaded extender would be fine. I've decided to use a soldered elbow as pictured. I still have the extender question though.
ae235 (2).jpg
 
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Yes fine. Just bring the elbow forward with in the wall so that the arm screws directly into it, then the joint is at tile level.
If that causes problems with pipework then use a fitting like this
1606382733460.jpeg
 
Yes fine. Just bring the elbow forward with in the wall so that the arm screws directly into it, then the joint is at tile level.
If that causes problems with pipework then use a fitting like this
View attachment 46402
Thanks for the reply. I think I still have a problem as shown in the attached picture. The threaded "neck" is not deep enough to make to the tile level which will be another 12/13 mm. (I know I'll gain a little more with an end feed soldered elbow but not enough). I'm not sure how I would use the fitting you have shown. What it screw to?IMG_20201126_100616.jpg
 
Most shower fittings will need the wall plate elbow to be set back a little way anyway. Assemble the shower fitting into the wall plate elbow and see what depth is require if you have not already, you may find that you just need to fit a noggin and mount it on that.
 
Most shower fittings will need the wall plate elbow to be set back a little way anyway. Assemble the shower fitting into the wall plate elbow and see what depth is require if you have not already, you may find that you just need to fit a noggin and mount it on that.
Hi Mossep. Thanks for your reply. I'm getting the impression that its not a big deal having the connection between the shower arm and the elbow half way into to the wall. Being an amateur it makes me slightly nervous of a leak at that join going unnoticed As you can see from the last picture the 1/2inch thread socket doesn't make it past the backer board. There will be another 12mm approx of tile and adhesive.
 
Depending on shower arm depth, I prefer having it as far forwards as possible, preferably allowing it to be sealed against the tiles.

Why not run the supply in the wall, clip it securely, add an elbow, then the require copper pipe and finally a female iron.
 
Depending on shower arm depth, I prefer having it as far forwards as possible, preferably allowing it to be sealed against the tiles.

Why not run the supply in the wall, clip it securely, add an elbow, then the require copper pipe and finally a female iron.
Great idea. There're many ways to skin a cat and being an amateur it's not know the fittings that are out there that is half the problem. Thanks for the tip. That's what I'm going to do.
 

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