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Discuss Vaillant ecotech pro 28 losing pressure in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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My elderly parents recently moved and have had problems with the heating system since then! At first we noticed that some of the vertical rad's were barely getting warm unless the 'stat was turned up to 26c, and this is still the case.
Couple of months back we had a bloke out who took one of the vertical rad's off and drained it but it's not made any difference. The pipes either side of these rad's is piping hot, but it's not going up into the radiator even with the TRV open to max.

Over the past 2 months the pressure keeps dropping. It's difficult to see if there's a pattern to it as we don't live there, but we're having to top the system up every 2-3 weeks. No visible leaks from radiators.

Got the bloke out again and he said the expansion vessel was fine and put some sealant solution in. I've just read that this invalidates warranty, but it doesn't make any difference as apparently the previous owners didn't register the boiler and it's just to say past the 2 years.
Anyway, it's not made a blind bit of difference.

There's only been one occasion when my parents have rung us and said the heating was off, and we only top it up when it actually goes off, so I'm wondering if it's related to running the hot water more as we go down to clean once a week, and I always mop floors etc. Maybe it's just a coincidence.
I have noticed it seems to take a long time (longer than the upstairs bathroom hot tap in our house) for the water to run hot when it's been off for a while. I've tried reducing the flow from the tap, but doesn't make any difference.That seems a little strange when it's only a 2 bed bungalow and the boiler is less than 8 ft from the kitchen tap!
The bloke did mention that if the pressure is going up above 3 then water will leave the system and the boiler will cut out as the pressure drops.This boiler is in a cupboard that doesn't have an outside wall. I've seen folks tell people to have a look at the outside pipe to check for water, but where would this be? If it's a condensing boiler will it still have one?
Thinking we'll get in touch with the bloke who installed it and get him to come out.
TIA for any advice
 
If you set the pressure to 1.5 then run the heating does the pressure rise?

Verticals rads are sometimes directional, the won’t work if the flow goes in the wrong side

Does it have a condensate pump?
 
Thanks for the reply
I don't know if the pressure rises,but will check tomorrow.
Would that indicate a fault?
Yes, that's what the bloke said about the rads, but he couldn;t see anything to suggest they were supposed to be fitted a particular way when he took it off, and it gets stotting hot if you turn the stat up to 25c. Did wonder if it might be that it's just as you go in LR door and there's another rad' within 3ft in the hall. I don't really understand how TRV's work in relation to the room stat controls-if that makes sense.
Yes, I think it does have a condensate pump. It has a square box below and to the side of the boiler with 2 clear ?plastic pipes attached to the boiler. Would that be it?
 
Haven't gone round and bled all the rads- could air in the system cause this problem? Presume it expands as it gets hot so the pressure could increase and PRV kicks in?
Other thing to mention as that my elderly Mother says she thinks it sometimes makes a high pitched screeching noise during the night (they have the timer/stat set to go off at 2200 with a low temp of 18c so it may be coming on during the night) but I've never heard it do that.
 
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Thanks for the reply
I don't know if the pressure rises,but will check tomorrow.
Would that indicate a fault?
Yes, that's what the bloke said about the rads, but he couldn;t see anything to suggest they were supposed to be fitted a particular way when he took it off, and it gets stotting hot if you turn the stat up to 25c. Did wonder if it might be that it's just as you go in LR door and there's another rad' within 3ft in the hall. I don't really understand how TRV's work in relation to the room stat controls-if that makes sense.
Yes, I think it does have a condensate pump. It has a square box below and to the side of the boiler with 2 clear ?plastic pipes attached to the boiler. Would that be it?
Sounds like a condensate punk. The prv will probably discharge into there as well
 
Are all condense pumps designed for prv discharge????
 
Here it is. Clear Pipe going into the white box and then one coming out and heading under the cupboard bottom
Yes, the pressure went up to to 1.7 as soon as the stat called for heat but then dropped down to 1.6
There was a weird noise-like a glugging of water (maybe the condensate pump?)
And then after a bit of a delay the boiler properly fired up. Bit of a high pitched vibration noise going on, which was quite short lived.
That's the noise my Mother's been hearing
When I ran the hot water tap, the pressure dropped to 1.4, but my husband can't remember if the pressure came back up almost straight away, or only when I turned the tap off.

MDs BOILER.jpg
 
Leave the heating on does the pressure go racing up to in excess of 2.5 bar
 
Not there ATM .Don't have a smart phone and parents don't have a computer so had to wait until we came home to post. I'll check tomorrow and take my laptop.
My mother says the vertical radiator in her bedroom is always hot in the morning.We have the timer set to come on at 07.30 with a temp of 23c. Today , with the stat at 22.5 all the radiators were warm/hot except the 2 vertical ones which were barely warm.
When I toggle through the display on the boiler to get the pressure reading, the pressure limits (I assume that's what they are-2 figures under the actual pressure reading) are 0.5 and 3.0.
Would the installer have set those, or are they the factory settings?
Thanks again.
 
2.0 after use or while cold or what you will need to be a little more specific
 
That was when it was off ,ie stat not calling for heat, neither stat nor boiler displaying the flame icon, but not sure if that would be classed as "cold" as the temp' reading on the boiler was 45c and pump may have been running. Went up to 2.1 briefly when the stat called for heat, then back to 2.0.. Thanks again.
 
At cold the pressure should really be between 1-1.5 bar. When you say off it hadn’t been running beforehand??
When it runs for a decent time the pressure will rise but up to say 2-2.5 bar if it’s starting higher and going to 3 bar and above then you’re going to lose pressure when the prv pops open
 
No, heating had been on since 07.30 with stat set at 22c.Rads were warm when we got there at 11am so had been on fairly recently.
If the pressure goes too high , will a fault code show before the PRV opens? Is there fault code log that an engineer could check to see if that's what's happening?
 
Right so it’s not cold. That’s the starting point you need
 
OK- how long does it need to be off for to be classed as "cold"?
I'll need to go down and turn the stat down and wait for it to cool. An hour?
 
It’s all relative depends how long it’s been on and what temp was achieved
 
My elderly parents recently moved and have had problems with the heating system since then! At first we noticed that some of the vertical rad's were barely getting warm unless the 'stat was turned up to 26c, and this is still the case.
Couple of months back we had a bloke out who took one of the vertical rad's off and drained it but it's not made any difference. The pipes either side of these rad's is piping hot, but it's not going up into the radiator even with the TRV open to max.

Over the past 2 months the pressure keeps dropping. It's difficult to see if there's a pattern to it as we don't live there, but we're having to top the system up every 2-3 weeks. No visible leaks from radiators.

Got the bloke out again and he said the expansion vessel was fine and put some sealant solution in. I've just read that this invalidates warranty, but it doesn't make any difference as apparently the previous owners didn't register the boiler and it's just to say past the 2 years.
Anyway, it's not made a blind bit of difference.

There's only been one occasion when my parents have rung us and said the heating was off, and we only top it up when it actually goes off, so I'm wondering if it's related to running the hot water more as we go down to clean once a week, and I always mop floors etc. Maybe it's just a coincidence.
I have noticed it seems to take a long time (longer than the upstairs bathroom hot tap in our house) for the water to run hot when it's been off for a while. I've tried reducing the flow from the tap, but doesn't make any difference.That seems a little strange when it's only a 2 bed bungalow and the boiler is less than 8 ft from the kitchen tap!
The bloke did mention that if the pressure is going up above 3 then water will leave the system and the boiler will cut out as the pressure drops.This boiler is in a cupboard that doesn't have an outside wall. I've seen folks tell people to have a look at the outside pipe to check for water, but where would this be? If it's a condensing boiler will it still have one?
Thinking we'll get in touch with the bloke who installed it and get him to come out.
TIA for any advice
You might look at MFD from Flowflex it will solve the pressure loss issue instantly
Rob Foster aka centralheatking
 

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