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The house I live in has the stopcock plastered into the wall by the previous owner. I have a mains water leak in the system after the meter( which I’ve been using to switch off water supply when needed) The waterboard wont come out to test if it’s a leak until I can isolate the house via a stopcock. I have fitted a sure stop to what I thought was the water inlet above the broken old stopcock. It worked for a few days then stopped the day the water board visited to check for the leak!!!!!
Does anyone else use this as a replacement stopcock or should I cut out both and replace piping and old style stopcock! It’s in a really awkward place to get to should I need it in a hurry, hence the idea of the sure stop with its movable switch? Ps the water board confirmed I have a leak between the meter and the house so that’s another issue? Finding it!??????
 
The house I live in has the stopcock plastered into the wall by the previous owner. I have a mains water leak in the system after the meter( which I’ve been using to switch off water supply when needed) The waterboard wont come out to test if it’s a leak until I can isolate the house via a stopcock. I have fitted a sure stop to what I thought was the water inlet above the broken old stopcock. It worked for a few days then stopped the day the water board visited to check for the leak!!!!!
Does anyone else use this as a replacement stopcock or should I cut out both and replace piping and old style stopcock! It’s in a really awkward place to get to should I need it in a hurry, hence the idea of the sure stop with its movable switch? Ps the water board confirmed I have a leak between the meter and the house so that’s another issue? Finding it!??????
Sure Stop is not intended for use as the main stop tap so you ought to have a manual good quality stop tap. I am not sure your insurance would like your ad hoc arrangement. How far is it from the meter to the property....this will influence how we advise you to find the leak. If your into a bit of mannual labour then replacing it entirely might be the most practical,esp. if its lead or small bore....a bigger bore pipe might give better flow rates. Improve rather than replace. centralheatking
 
The sure stop works by having water behind it. When the water board came out they will have knocked the water off outside and making the sure stop in effective. Or that's my understanding of how they work.
 
As CHKing has said, they’re not meant to be used as a main stopcock, whenever I’ve fitted them it states you must have a stopcock before it. In my opinion replace with a good quality stopcock or lever ball valve. As for the leak, could be anywhere. Do you know if you have blue mdpe pipe coming in, copper, lead, other?
 
As CHKing has said, they’re not meant to be used as a main stopcock, whenever I’ve fitted them it states you must have a stopcock before it. In my opinion replace with a good quality stopcock or lever ball valve. As for the leak, could be anywhere. Do you know if you have blue mdpe pipe coming in, copper, lead, other?
Thanks, I have lead pipe coming into the house then copper within the house, the information on the sure stop pack said a perfect replacement for old fashioned brass stopcock so thought it was ok? The water board didn’t turn off the water just ran the tap and then tried to turn off the sure stop, which didn’t work!!!!!! We tried many times!
I will replace the old stopcock and surestop with some new piping and a new ball lever valve I think! Just really difficult place to access in an emergency!
 
Thanks, I have lead pipe coming into the house then copper within the house, the information on the sure stop pack said a perfect replacement for old fashioned brass stopcock so thought it was ok? The water board didn’t turn off the water just ran the tap and then tried to turn off the sure stop, which didn’t work!!!!!! We tried many times!
I will replace the old stopcock and surestop with some new piping and a new ball lever valve I think! Just really difficult place to access in an emergency!
Ok you now know the answer, unless its a rental,
How are you going to solve the issue between the meter and your
property ?...get rid of the lead pipe put in a decent dia new blue pipe
...belt and braces is called...from meter to inside and move into this century. Give us a plan and some piccys we might be able to assist
there are some quite experienced people on UKPF
chking
 
Ok you now know the answer, unless its a rental,
How are you going to solve the issue between the meter and your
property ?...get rid of the lead pipe put in a decent dia new blue pipe
...belt and braces is called...from meter to inside and move into this century. Give us a plan and some piccys we might be able to assist
there are some quite experienced people on UKPF
chking
No I own the property, not a rental.
Ok you now know the answer, unless its a rental,
How are you going to solve the issue between the meter and your
property ?...get rid of the lead pipe put in a decent dia new blue pipe
...belt and braces is called...from meter to inside and move into this century. Give us a plan and some piccys we might be able to assist
there are some quite experienced people on UKPF
chking
ok new to this forum and plumbing so be gentle. It’s my house not a rental, the distance from the lead pipe to the water meter is about 5 meters under a recently paved drive. The lead passes through the footings somehow, so not sure how to replace this! The house was built in 1910 so is last century, but I’m not made of money so will have to do the best I can with funds available and my own hard work 😓 how far down do I have to dig to find the pipe and can I connect dia blue pipe( whatever that is?) to the meter or do I have to get the water board to do that? Sorry for the ignorance, I’m trying to learn as fast as I can!
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No I own the property, not a rental.

ok new to this forum and plumbing so be gentle. It’s my house not a rental, the distance from the lead pipe to the water meter is about 5 meters under a recently paved drive. The lead passes through the footings somehow, so not sure how to replace this! The house was built in 1910 so is last century, but I’m not made of money so will have to do the best I can with funds available and my own hard work 😓 how far down do I have to dig to find the pipe and can I connect dia blue pipe( whatever that is?) to the meter or do I have to get the water board to do that? Sorry for the ignorance, I’m trying to learn as fast as I can!
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If your meter is connected to the lead, then your water undertaker (water board) may offer a free lead replacement scheme whereby they’ll connect onto the meter/boundary free of charge. To expose the lead, which judging by one of your pics, looks like you may have found? You just need to dig down, not sure if these were laid to any minimum depth. For your blue MDPE/new pipe, it has to be laid to a minimum of 750mm and a maximum of 1350mm. Also looking at a photo you need to keep next doors connected from that tee. There’s always moling, not sure of costs though.
 
If your meter is connected to the lead, then your water undertaker (water board) may offer a free lead replacement scheme whereby they’ll connect onto the meter/boundary free of charge. To expose the lead, which judging by one of your pics, looks like you may have found? You just need to dig down, not sure if these were laid to any minimum depth. For your blue MDPE/new pipe, it has to be laid to a minimum of 750mm and a maximum of 1350mm. Also looking at a photo you need to keep next doors connected from that tee. There’s always moling, not sure of costs though.
Thank you for the info will keep digging! , Is the other pipe for next door? The lead pipe that feeds both tee’s comes from my meter?
As CHKing has said, they’re not meant to be used as a main stopcock, whenever I’ve fitted them it states you must have a stopcock before it. In my opinion replace with a good quality stopcock or lever ball valve. As for the leak, could be anywhere. Do you know if you have blue mdpe pipe coming in, copper, lead, other?
See the top red writing and below it states approved by WRAS for use as stopcock?saying that I am putting in a lever ball cave as well just in case the replacement doesn’t work either!
 

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The house I live in has the stopcock plastered into the wall by the previous owner. I have a mains water leak in the system after the meter( which I’ve been using to switch off water supply when needed) The waterboard wont come out to test if it’s a leak until I can isolate the house via a stopcock. I have fitted a sure stop to what I thought was the water inlet above the broken old stopcock. It worked for a few days then stopped the day the water board visited to check for the leak!!!!!
Does anyone else use this as a replacement stopcock or should I cut out both and replace piping and old style stopcock! It’s in a really awkward place to get to should I need it in a hurry, hence the idea of the sure stop with its movable switch? Ps the water board confirmed I have a leak between the meter and the house so that’s another issue? Finding it!??????
From what I read you are right on the correct track, nothing like digging a trench etc. ....you are doing well in my opinion. never forget to
pop A few beers in the fridge for when you stop...keep us updated
we can help you through the rest I think esp. as you are a tryer
centralheatking
 
Thank you for the info will keep digging! , Is the other pipe for next door? The lead pipe that feeds both tee’s comes from my meter?

See the top red writing and below it states approved by WRAS for use as stopcock?saying that I am putting in a lever ball cave as well just in case the replacement doesn’t work either!

I stand corrected, it’s been about 5/6 years since I last installed one, so they may now have been approved?

Unless you have x2 feeds, eg outside toilet, or this has been capped, then I’d say it’s for next door - in which case having an external meter maybe costing quite a bit. Turn water off at meter, engage with next door and see if their water turns off?
 
I stand corrected, it’s been about 5/6 years since I last installed one, so they may now have been approved?

Unless you have x2 feeds, eg outside toilet, or this has been capped, then I’d say it’s for next door - in which case having an external meter maybe costing quite a bit. Turn water off at meter, engage with next door and see if their water turns off?
I did as you said and their water is running fine! I replaced the broken stopcock and the faulty surestop (as they wouldn't give me a refund only a replacement, i lost the receipt!)
tested and the water supply went off! I thought i had fixed it until i realised the upstairs had been stopped but the downstairs was still running. sat down and cried for ten mins- sorry girly thing! then realised it must mean the second lead pipe leads to a downstairs water feed. No idea if there is a buried stopcock under the laminate flooring? no sign of one above the flooring anywhere! losing the plot now!. A neighbour suggested i might have subsidence as my drive is sinking in places and there are cracks on my walls.
I'm seriously panicking and at a loss now and don't know whether to call my insurance or what to do??? all because there could be a drain leak in the drive! anyone know what insurers cover? should i fix the leak before calling them? HELP PLEASE
 
My advice is to check your policy with regards to what they cover, you may have cover for burst pipes etc. Secondly, depending who your supplier is, they maybe able to help, check this out:https://www.unitedutilities.com/glo...f/private-leak-repair-scheme-5-18-web-acc.pdf.

Regarding subsidence, it could just be cracks and your drive could be the result of the leak, or poorly installed or not suitable for heavy vehicles etc. You would need someone who specialises in that area.
 
My advice is to check your policy with regards to what they cover, you may have cover for burst pipes etc. Secondly, depending who your supplier is, they maybe able to help, check this out:https://www.unitedutilities.com/glo...f/private-leak-repair-scheme-5-18-web-acc.pdf.

Regarding subsidence, it could just be cracks and your drive could be the result of the leak, or poorly installed or not suitable for heavy vehicles etc. You would need someone who specialises in that area.
Thank you for your help, I called my insurance, it seems my policy only covers leaks within the walls of the house, Bristol Water (my provider) have given me two weeks to fix it! they aren't helpful like the the link you sent me? I will keep trying to find someone to help with the leak and address the lead pipes issue at a later date when life has settled down somewhat! seems like more floors taken up is beyond my coping level right now as they are all laminate!!!!!! Thank you for hour help and if anyone reads this in the Bristol/Bath area that can take on the leak in the drive way please let me know! Sue x
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From what I read you are right on the correct track, nothing like digging a trench etc. ..you are doing well in my opinion. never forget to
pop A few beers in the fridge for when you stop...keep us updated
we can help you through the rest I think esp. as you are a tryer
centralheatking
Thanks for your help and encouragement, I have got as far as my arm will reach down and not found pipe yet. Iv'e come to the conclusion that its beyond my capabilities(and arm length, so seeking some one who can do the digging and repair. I feel defeated but have at least tried! anyone in the Bristol/Bath area who can help with this please contact me, i'm resorting to check-a-trade at present!
 
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Just picked this up. Establishing facts.
1.If you turn your meter off ...does this stop your neighbours supply ?
yes /no
2.The supply of mains water ! It must have been split where you
cannot see...as you state ...downstairs ok , upstairs u/s
3.Is your neighbour a structual engineer or just sounding off
4.Bristol water can be aggressive but must adhere to the national precepts...
5. Whats your general post code ...area one...I know some old farts
in Bath whom I traded with and are
retired whom might come by if it is East Side of Bristol..ie keynsham side
centralheatking
 
Just an update on my issues. Thank you all for your help, it’s been very informative and useful. To reply to some of the questions asked if me:
the lead pipe dividing at the point of ingress to my house is in fact to upstairs( where the stopcock has been fitted, and to downstairs ( no stopcock able to be fitted as only an inch of lead above ground before split then runs along soil under flooring)
I got a drainage man in ( friend of a friend)who capped off the house supply to prove the leak was under the drive where I had started to dig. He dug Dow much further to expose pipe and then suggested replacing the lead pipe with a new blue one instead of having to dig down 4 feet al the way along the drive throu the bricks and rocks that was my drive bed! Three hours later it was all done and back filled much to my joy! Just the pavers to replace now. I have to realise that sometimes it’s just out of my hands and this was one of tjosd occasions. He’s coming back to help me sort out the lead in the house too sometime.
I’m a very relieved person now it’s fixed and will be writing to Bristol water about the manner of their letter which leads to all sorts of anxiety for people with no clue where to turn! Had they suggested a few things to put you on the right track , or had s list of reputable plumbers you could try, there may have been less sleepless nights!
Again thanks,and maybe speak to you all again sometime
 
Just an update on my issues. Thank you all for your help, it’s been very informative and useful. To reply to some of the questions asked if me:
the lead pipe dividing at the point of ingress to my house is in fact to upstairs( where the stopcock has been fitted, and to downstairs ( no stopcock able to be fitted as only an inch of lead above ground before split then runs along soil under flooring)
I got a drainage man in ( friend of a friend)who capped off the house supply to prove the leak was under the drive where I had started to dig. He dug Dow much further to expose pipe and then suggested replacing the lead pipe with a new blue one instead of having to dig down 4 feet al the way along the drive throu the bricks and rocks that was my drive bed! Three hours later it was all done and back filled much to my joy! Just the pavers to replace now. I have to realise that sometimes it’s just out of my hands and this was one of tjosd occasions. He’s coming back to help me sort out the lead in the house too sometime.
I’m a very relieved person now it’s fixed and will be writing to Bristol water about the manner of their letter which leads to all sorts of anxiety for people with no clue where to turn! Had they suggested a few things to put you on the right track , or had s list of reputable plumbers you could try, there may have been less sleepless nights!
Again thanks,and maybe speak to you all again sometime

I'd have a search for pipe trenchless pipe moling, generally costs about the same and doesnt involve diggine up most of your drive.

I also tend to fit a corrugated duct and run the water main in that, costs an extra £50 at the time but if you ever have any issues with leaking water mains again its really cheap/easy to replace.
 
I'd have a search for pipe trenchless pipe moling, generally costs about the same and doesnt involve diggine up most of your drive.

I also tend to fit a corrugated duct and run the water main in that, costs an extra £50 at the time but if you ever have any issues with leaking water mains again its really cheap/easy to replace.
Hi, its done now, couldn't use Moling as it was too rocky unfortunately! also the guy who did it was very reasonable in charging, so much cheaper than the moling which he investigated first. Iv'e not heard of the duct but hopefully the plastic piping should be good for many years. If I ever have reason to take up the drive again, I will consider it thanks
 

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