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Discuss Speedfit to copper on central heating systems. in the Plumbing Forum | Plumbing Advice area at PlumbersForums.net

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As per the title. What do you think of using Speedfit in part of the cental heating system?

In particular a 15mm x 300mm flexi pipe. Bent at 90 degrees. See link.

Not sure what I am dealing with yet but I suspect a leaky Yorkshire elbow below the floorboards.

Rather than remove it, clean it up and resolder I was thinking cut it out and replace the corner with this.

Any thoughts and opinions would be appreciated.

Thanks

 
I'd say bad idea, disaster waiting to happen and flexis are reduced diameter internally compared to copper.
If you don't want to solder, either compression with copper pipe or Tectite or similar pushfit copper /brass fittings
 
I'd say bad idea, disaster waiting to happen and flexis are reduced diameter internally compared to copper.
If you don't want to solder, either compression with copper pipe or Tectite or similar pushfit copper /brass fittings
Well. Never used them before. I had my doubts but looking at some of the web content there seems to be mixed opinions. I haven't had the boards up yet. It's a very old house and I know that there is going to be very dry timber and a load of dust when I get in there hence the reluctance to go near it with a flame even after damping down. Compression is my default under floors. I know Yorkshire are supposed to handle the expansion and contraction better but with a bit of jointing compound I rarely have a problem. In fact never would be a better word.
 
Better to use push fit joints and copper tube if you can’t solder
 
Better to use push fit joints and copper tube if you can’t solder
Cheers. So that would be a yay not a nay? You wouldn't have a problem with the Speedfit FLX17? Or do you figure Speedfit straights and elbows? They are a bit more bulky than compression fittings. Might be an issue relaying the bloor boards.
 
No too the flexi as there rubbish even on cold water applications
 
Unless its a very temporary repair, I really wouldn't. Do you need heating just at the mo, or can you wait for a pro to repair properly?

With the heat in central heating you will get both effect of high heat and lots of expansion contraction, which will stress the joints and work the flexi reducing its lifetime. So as Simon says its not rated for central heating.

Purpose of flexis is to make easy to fit, not for moving applications (its not a GP car).

Beneath the floor you won't spot when it starts to leak, and will probably have happily forgotten about it. How much will big damage cost.

My own rule is soldered behind fixed walls and floors. Is the floor easy to take up? or does that damage the covering.

For the fire risk of soldering, vaccum and sweep up first, damp down, use heat mats in any peripheral areas, and a piece of old tin behind the joint. Burn any paint off the tin outside first. Heat mats wont handle sustained heat. Have an extinguisher handyband/or hose (water supply on) and dont walk off afterwards. Stuff can smoulder for hours. I would avoid or be very careful / take further precautions if heat can go into any hidden areas e.g. behind dry lined walls full of spiders webs etc.

Remember if soldering you can get sraight couple sliding fittings, if you can't bend the pipes back far enough to get the new elbow in.

If you dont solder and really cant get a pro to do a proper job, then think I'd go for compression joints, and leave access for a while so you can check no minor leak e.g. next winter.

Last silly question: What is the age of the house please? I've also got one (circa 1995) full of hasty (and now corroded) Yorkshires behind the walls, no leaks yet . . .

Anyhow, the very best of luck,

Cheers,

Roy
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Unless its a very temporary repair, I really wouldn't. Do you need heating just at the mo, or can you wait for a pro to repair properly?

With the heat in central heating you will get both effect of high heat and lots of expansion contraction, which will stress the joints and work the flexi reducing its lifetime. So as Simon says its not rated for central heating.

Purpose of flexis is to make easy to fit, not for moving applications (its not a GP car).

Beneath the floor you won't spot when it starts to leak, and will probably have happily forgotten about it. How much will big damage cost.

My own rule is soldered behind fixed walls and floors. Is the floor easy to take up? or does that damage the covering.

For the fire risk of soldering, vaccum and sweep up first, damp down, use heat mats in any peripheral areas, and a piece of old tin behind the joint. Burn any paint off the tin outside first. Heat mats wont handle sustained heat. Have an extinguisher handyband/or hose (water supply on) and dont walk off afterwards. Stuff can smoulder for hours. I would avoid or be very careful / take further precautions if heat can go into any hidden areas e.g. behind dry lined walls full of spiders webs etc.

Remember if soldering you can get sraight couple sliding fittings, if you can't bend the pipes back far enough to get the new elbow in.

If you dont solder and really cant get a pro to do a proper job, then think I'd go for compression joints, and leave access for a while so you can check no minor leak e.g. next winter.

Last silly question: What is the age of the house please? I've also got one (circa 1995) full of hasty (and now corroded) Yorkshires behind the walls, no leaks yet . . .

Anyhow, the very best of luck,

Cheers,

Roy

Errrm. . . Apologies I should also have said, the hardest bit if soldering will be getting any remaining water out first, and I guess you may not have much access upstream/downstream without taking house to bits. So myself as an amateur I'd want to borrow a decent compressed air supply and somewhere to connect it on each side ofnthe break. Snag with not doing that is system may well drip INto the joint area for hours, and enough to blow your soldering out. Pros of course have the experience and tricks to make it easy for them . . . not something you can put into words.
 
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John Guest/speedfit is a great brand in my opinion. If the job calls for plastic that's my go-to brand. It's not the brand that's the issue, it's that flexi hose, there may be some applications where you'd use it but definitely not central heating.
As Shaun mentioned above (I think you misunderstood), if you're not able to solder then use a length of copper with speed fit couplings (not flexis) to replace the pipework you're ripping out.
 
John Guest/speedfit is a great brand in my opinion. If the job calls for plastic that's my go-to brand. It's not the brand that's the issue, it's that flexi hose, there may be some applications where you'd use it but definitely not central heating.
As Shaun mentioned above (I think you misunderstood), if you're not able to solder then use a length of copper with speed fit couplings (not flexis) to replace the pipework you're ripping out.
Got it. Thanks for the input.
 
I don't like any of the plastic fittings, however I prefer Hep2O to the other brands, and you can get it in straight lengths if you don't want a whole roll.

My issue would be with using a flexi, which would not be designed for the application

It would not, however, be wrong to use polybutylene pipework either bent as tight as the manufacturer's permit (some manufacturers even have a corner forming support in their range), or even using an elbow fitting, if you are tight on space. The slight flexibility of polybutylene tubing would allow you to compensate easily for slight deviation from perfect alinement. As a professional, I would prefer to solder copper tube, but there are occasions where polybutylene and associated fittings have their uses.

Of course, Tectite and copper if you need something slimline isn't exactly hard to use. Main thing is to mark the pipe before insertion so you can be confident you are fully home with your joints.
 
No flexi pipe in central heating. That's the conclusion. Anyway. Turned out to be a leaky joint to an internal stack. Fixing it was easy. Getting to it a different matter entirely.
 

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