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Have encountered a small leak below toilet and wanted to see if anyone could advise on how I can try resolve i was going to try tighten but first and if fails check the washer. It is the upper metal nut that is leaking as when I turn the valve the leak stops and it is dry above this point.

Would be grateful on any input to prevent me needing call out . Also if you could advise on tool was going to get an adjustable spanner the area is quite narrow and could not do much with pliers.



photo attached .
 

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Is the thread not crossed on the top chrome nut?
So.
Water off.
Loosen nut completely and very carefully try to get it on straight.
Plastic threads can be damaged and then a valve with a brass stem might be needed.
 
Is the thread not crossed on the top chrome nut?
So.
Water off.
Loosen nut completely and very carefully try to get it on straight.
Plastic threads can be damaged and then a valve with a brass stem might be needed.
You have cross threaded the female chrome connector to the plastic male Fitting it’s easily done you need to buy a new plastic fitting and next time get the connection straight BEFORE you tighten up the filling section then tighten up,the lock nut. At least you can close it off at the ballofix overnight. Don’t bother with ptfe tape or magic glue ...the washer is not sat into the housing straight..believe me been there etc late Friday afternoons years ago
Centralheatking
 
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Had many hassles like this over the years, best to replace fill valve for BRASS tail version.

It would be great if PLASTIC tail fill valves were banned the world over.

Sorry this doesn't really help the OP.
 
May be able to cut a sliver off the plastic to get rid of the cross threaded bit. Had success with a multi tool in the past. I only use the brass shank flush valves now. A few more pennies but no hassle.
 
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May be able to cut a sliver off the plastic to get rid of the cross threaded bit. Had success with a multi tool in the past. I only use the brass shank flush valves now. A few more pennies but no hassle.
Correct, in a pinch you can cut off the damaged thread but don't forget to wash off the swarf or it'll screw with the diaphragm.
 
Don't cut the thread off the valve, as your pipework is coming out through the tiles, I would doubt you would be able to pull the pipe up on plastic valve. Turn water off at the chrome isolation valve, to test push the float down to make sure its off. Undo the top nut attached to the plastic valve. hopefully you will be able to see the washer once its undone. Gently by hand tighten the nut making sure it goes on straight. lastly tighten with a spanner, making sure not to strip the thread. Hold float up and turn on supply, if no leaks sorted. If you find the plastic of the valve is damaged. flush toilet, siphon remaining water out of cistern. Fit new fill valve with a brass tail, this will make it easier for you to tighten without damage to threads.
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There are several ones available, it will depend on how much room you have in your cistern.
 
I fear that whatever you do the threaded shank of the inlet valve is out of square with the wall and the pipework. The normal way of dealing with slightly misaligned shank / tap connector is:
1. Slacken the inlet valve backnut (the white plastic nut underneath the cistern in your photograph).
2. Manoeuvre the tap connector nut (chrome nut at the top of the isolation valve in your picture) onto the thread and do it up finger tight then back off one turn.
3. Then tighten back nut and connector nut until leak free.

However, given the amount your's is out of square that won't work, and you run the risk of stripping the backnut thread or even cracking the cistern if you use a brass shank valve.
The proper long term fix is to make sure the back of the cistern is parallel with the wall, which should bring the shank vertical, and make any pipework alterations necessary to enable the tap connector to screw on properly.
A short term fix would be to use a flexible connector with a 1/2" BSP tap connector at one end and a 15 mm compression fitting at the other. You can get them with built in isolation valves. Given that the space is tight, and the minimum length you can normally get is 300 mm I'd suggest getting a 500 mm one and looping it to avoid sharp bends. You will need to turn the water to the cistern off other than via the picture isolation valve to achieve this.
 
Thanks all for your responses, as it seemed like something I would quite likely mess up I called my home emergency insurance, they send someone who replaced the thread with a Brass one and replace the valve. Couple of hours after they left it started leaking from the cistern seal as the plastic bit at the top started leaking so they sent someone round again who tried to tighten the same bit (against the cistern). Today just noticed it is still leaking albeit less but very frustrating I can see there is a gap between the cistern and plastic bit due to the offset
 
Thanks all for your responses, as it seemed like something I would quite likely mess up I called my home emergency insurance, they send someone who replaced the thread with a Brass one and replace the valve. Couple of hours after they left it started leaking from the cistern seal as the plastic bit at the top started leaking so they sent someone round again who tried to tighten the same bit (against the cistern). Today just noticed it is still leaking albeit less but very frustrating I can see there is a gap between the cistern and plastic bit due to the offset
There are some parts of plumbing which are just plain stupid, plastic threads are just one of many. This is why I started my company in 2005 to design out the intermediate unthought out bits of plumbing components. You might not have got that joint right as the so called professionals have proved.
Happy Easter. Centralheatking
 

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