Simple q - which isolation valve is best for a bathroom sink / toilet?

[Russel]

Hi guys, I'm just in the middle of a DIY refurb and wanted somebody to sense check my choice of equipment.

In the bathroom, I have a loo and a sink. Obviously it would be a good idea to have the ability to cut the water off should I ever need to and hence I will be fitting some 15mm isolation valves.

Question is this, however: do I fit one of these, which (as a negative point) is not full bore and is more restrictive although it has a user friendly little plastic lever which turns very easily:

Or...

Do I fit a full bore isolation valve, with a screw turning, which on the one that I have is quite tough to turn already (its brand new) and I'm thinking what will it be like after a couple of years in a hard water area!

Images attached, appreciate any input!

 

[ShaunCorbs]

The second one is the ones I fit and normally easier when there's water lubing it up

 

[Russel]

Thanks, Shaun!

I measured the water pressure at the garden tap and got around 4 bar which is decent.

While I suppose I could have fitted the isolation valves with the small black lever and narrower bore, I will go buy the full bore ones instead.

In your experience, over time, does the screw fitting become more difficult to turn or no?

 

[Old Account]

The second one is better but if you choose this one I'd go for full bore which means the diameter is much bigger.
But disadvantage is that they get faulty and leak

 

[Ant Parkes]

Thanks, Shaun!

I measured the water pressure at the garden tap and got around 4 bar which is decent.

While I suppose I could have fitted the isolation valves with the small black lever and narrower bore, I will go buy the full bore ones instead.

In your experience, over time, does the screw fitting become more difficult to turn or no?

Thats the only issue with ballofix's, they can become stiff and can weep from the ball joint. I had one the other day that had been in 5 years though.

 

[Russel]

Thanks guys....ah. I now have a bit of a dilemma I guess. What about the ones with the small plastic lever that are not full bore, are they any more reliable? I'm a do it once and do it right then leave it kind of guy.

 

[Stigster]

I've come across many a screwdriver operated valve either jammed in position or the slot all knackered up from people trying to close them and using the wrong size screwdriver for the slot. I prefer butterfly valves like these - http://www.tbsdirect.co.uk/images/ocw/8426_500_500.jpg

The heads are fairly easy to turn as you've got more leverage on it. The butterfly heads are also usually strong enough to get a pair of grips or an adjustable spanner on if it's really stiff.

The screwdriver type will be fine though as long as you use a screwdriver with a good fit to operate them.

The black handled ones you have in your picture I have had the plastic head crack and break when the valve has been in a few years and bound up.

 

[Old Account]

I would not use the first one either due to the fact is plastic. It can break very easy. I would suggest the butterfly isolation valve.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

The ones I get from city's never had a problem even when I know your not supposed to but on a heating system and they can be stiff to get moving / turning but once started there fine and with a good slotted screwdriver that fits the slot (that's half the battle)

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Me personally I wouldn't want a butterfly valve it's nearly the same size as a lever valve

 

[Russel]

I didn't even know the butterfly ones exist! That is very useful. I will check to see if I have space for them, but by the looks of things, the ones with the plastic handle are a no no.

 

[Old Account]

If it's hidden and you are not so fussed about the size I'd go for butterfly ... if it's visible then it wouldn't look too pretty.

 

[Old Account]

If I'd installed new pipes I would use them they are very good

 

[Ant Parkes]

The ones I get from city's never had a problem even when I know your not supposed to but on a heating system and they can be stiff to get moving / turning but once started there fine and with a good slotted screwdriver that fits the slot (that's half the battle)

I need to buy some from by you. Local independent once had a batch that leaked. So many installers complained, caused big problems. I don't tend to use on CH and ballofixs are generally okay for a few years. It's those ones you go back to that have been in years, you finally get it to turn and then bam, little drip from ball. Sometimes they dry up over 10 minutes, other times out they come.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I need to buy some from by you. Local independent once had a batch that leaked. So many installers complained, caused big problems. I don't tend to use on CH and ballofixs are generally okay for a few years. It's those ones you go back to that have been in years, you finally get it to turn and then bam, little drip from ball. Sometimes they dry up over 10 minutes, other times out they come.

There the same insides as lever valves all teflon washers

 

[jtsplumbing]

Another thought is how often will you use them ? in a hard water area no matter what you fit could scale up, if whole house is on mains pressure Hot & Cold then the standard ones with screw driver slot will be ok, if part of the system is on low pressure then fit full bore valves.

 

[king of pipes]

Russel they all do the same job bud basin and toilet it wont make alot of difference if you want real quality and it on view fit genuine ballofix but sit down when you see the price ha ha cheers kop

 

[Russel]

Blimey, that isn't cheap, lol. The ones that I found are made by Westco.

 

[Old Account]

Isn't cheap but will do the job with brass handles

 

[Best]

As has already been said, - use a valve with Teflon seals, which are generally all full bore. (if you look carefully inside the valve and see white seal at edge of ball, then it is Teflon). The slotted screw valve on second photo will free up when water is in it. The other valves, mainly small bore, are only rubber seals and not worth bothering using IMO.
You can get high quality gas valves small lever type that are nearly full bore and do gas, oil, water.
Peglers also do full bore, medium sized metal lever valves which are also top quality. Blue or red handled choice. Screwfix do them.
You want a valve to always shut off and on and last a lifetime, so what's an extra £20 in the total valves spend of your home?