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Hi. I have have purchased 3 Mermaid wall panels to replace the tiles in our shower. These panels are 3mm in thickness. After removing the existing wall tiles, I have discovered that there is a gap around the entire shower tray, in some places the gap is greater than 3mm, the thickness of the wall panels. The instructions for the panels say that a bead of adhesive 6mm thick is to be used to affix the panels to the wall, but obviously this will squash up to almost nothing as the panels are pushed against the wall. This would effectively mean that front edge of each panel would only just be sitting on the shower tray. And in some cases, may even sit behind the tray, this is obviously a big no no. I was considering replacing our shower tray with a Mira Flight tray with the integrated upstands. However, after discovering that the upstands are 6mm thick, I don't think this is going to work very well. The panels would effectively have to slightly bend towards the bottom to sit over the 6mm thick upstand.
So, as an alternative to having to re-plaster the shower area to close the gap between wall and tray, which would be time consuming and would mean I can't move forward until the plaster has dried, I thought about using the Mira upstand strip. Mira Tile Upstand Strip 3.6m White - https://www.screwfix.com/p/mira-tile-upstand-strip-3-6m-white/5361X?tc=MB7&ds_kid=92700046986170840&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1245725&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=CjwKCAjwhNWZBhB_EiwAPzlhNrEj2LfoHWSgoQiIHG0RqUlrh2VLVzNSDr1pnFLJoSeX2dnRq5Y0ohoCsK8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
But do you guys have other recommendations for shower tray tapes that are superior?
Am I worrying to much???. I also intend on tanking the area with Mapai Shower proofing kit, and this has a tape that, according to the instructions should be adhered to the tray. Would this do the job anyway? Especially and most importantly, when I install the new tray I will be ensuring that there is copious amounts of sealant between the wall and the outer edge of the tray.
Sorry, lots to read there. I just want a solution that doesn't involve replastering and I definitely can't replace the wall panels with thicker panels.
Many thanks
D
 

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Chop the tray into the wall as necessary so that you end up with a small enough gap for your panels to cover.
We often have to do this when the corner is out of square too much.
 
Chop the tray into the wall as necessary so that you end up with a small enough gap for your panels to cover.
We often have to do this when the corner is out of square too much.
Hi Ben-gee. Thanks for the reply. There are three walls, so I can only chop away two, (for example the rear and the right hand wall), but this will only increase the gap between the wall and the tray at the left hand side.
 
Chop into two walls then overboard the last one with 9mm plaster board should be flush / good for you then
 
Chop into two walls then overboard the last one with 9mm plaster board should be flush / good for you then
I did wonder this, but does the plasterboard need skimming or can you glue the shower panels directly to the plaster board. And I've just realised, I'm wanting to tank the three walls before installing the panels. As previously mentioned in my thread, if I have to undertake any plastering this is going to considerably slow down progress whilst waiting for the plaster to dry out sufficiently. This is why I started wondering about the upstand tapes. Or as previously mentioned if the tape that comes with the Mapai Shower proofing kit (it adheres to the wall and tray) would suffice.
 
Nope straight onto it donā€™t want / need to plaster
 
Nope straight onto it donā€™t want / need to plaster
Hi.
So just for clarification, I can place a 9mm plaster board where required, then apply the tanking directly to the board, then attach my wall panels to the now tanked plaster board using the supplied Mermaid Adhesive.
 
Yep aslong as mermaid are happy with there addy eg glue going onto tanking
 
Yep aslong as mermaid are happy with there addy eg glue going onto tanking
I've
Yep aslong as mermaid are happy with there addy eg glue going onto tanking
I've e just realised another issue with adding a 9mm plaster board to one side of the enclosure. Originally to he plan was to extend the wall panels past the vertical frame of the shower door by around 25mm or so. This was going to be finished off with a end cap trim that I had purchased with the panels. This would have created a nice neat finish. However, if I am to fit a 9mm plaster board, there is going to be a 9mm gap between the rear of the end cap and the existing plastered wall. What do finish this off with so that it doesn't look an eye saw? I could add the plasterboard to the other side, the RHS and take the new panel to the end of the existing wall and add an angle trim to finish the corner neatly, but I don't know where the studs are. Can I use adhesive to stick the plaster board to the plastered walls, therefore avoiding screwing the panel on, locating studs and more importantly avoiding hidden pipework? If so, which type of plasterboard adhesive?
Ta
 

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Keep the plasterboard back 5mm, then you can skim/polyfilla the 9mm gap afterwards.
You donā€™t need to tank- water cannot go through the panels.
 
You can do either the multi panel addy is good enough to do the plasterboard to plaster etc
 
Keep the plasterboard back 5mm, then you can skim/polyfilla the 9mm gap afterwards.
You donā€™t need to tank- water cannot go through the panels.
Hi Ben-gee. I did start wondering if tanking the area was over the top. Going back to boarding 9ver one side of the enclosure. Can you use board plasterboard adhesive onto plastered walls? If so, any recommendations on which adhesive?
Ta
 
If your panels are opaque, I would screw the plasterboard to the existing wall- otherwise your new plasterboard and the new panels are all relying on a glued bond to the original skim coat. The max weight for this is 20kg/sqm and youā€™ll be close to this Iā€™m sure. What could happen is the skim coat will come away from the background plaster and then nothing is held upā€¦
 
If your panels are opaque, I would screw the plasterboard to the existing wall- otherwise your new plasterboard and the new panels are all relying on a glued bond to the original skim coat. The max weight for this is 20kg/sqm and youā€™ll be close to this Iā€™m sure. What could happen is the skim coat will come away from the background plaster and then nothing is held upā€¦
Yep. Got it
Thanks Ben-gee
 
You could do this with 6 mm thermo panel shower boards as I did here , then add panels better job all round ??? Kop
 

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Iā€™m a fan of thermopanel, and am using it on my current job for a tiled shower and wall hung toilet scenario.
However in OPā€™s job I think itā€™s overkill and adding unnecessary expenseā€¦
 
Have to disagree there's never over kill where showers and trays are involved the prep is the most important part of the job, I do at least 10 - 20 a year and from reading the ops description of what's he has I'd seriously consider it ?
I wouldn't personally use a 3 mm board for showers , I'd use the thicker 9 mm cellular shower boards for a more affordable job , l'm starting one on Monday with Multi panel my favoured product. Kop
 
Fair enough, having recently spent time watching a designer massively overspend on some aspects of a project - Iā€™m aware that itā€™s someone elseā€™s money we are spending and a pragmatic approach is sometimes called for.

KOP are you aware that multipanel (if you mean Grant Westfield) are going to mdf ?
I was a bit miffed at this, if you choose an unpopular colour you may get ply for a while longer - but the old ā€œblizzardā€ is mdf already.
Apparently the ply originated in Russia.
 
Well if that's the case Ben -gee then I'll move to another product there's more than one mate I've used shower wall which is MDF but didn't rate it , I'm using the frost white this week must be older stock as it's ply backed ? Kop
 
Hi guys. You've got me a little worried. My Mrs choose the wet wall and me not knowing better, thought that'it would be ok. There's no going back now I'm afraid. So, what problems are you anticipating that I'll have installing the 3mm Mermaid wall panels? And how can I minimise any of your anticipated issues? I've had them sitting flat for quite some time, so they are not as warped now. So hopefully they'll stick ok without issue.
 
The glue is good might be worth getting some timber just incase you have to brace a board up till the glue sets
 
The glue is good might be worth getting some timber just incase you have to brace a board up till the glue sets
Yep, I did consider this. For the rear panel was going to get some tile batten and brace it against the opposite wall, which is about 2.5m away. The two side panels will be much easier to brace, using the opposite side of the enclosure which is only 1.2m away. Thought I'd just do the rear one one day and then the two sides one the following day.

Any other issues to look forward to.šŸ¤£
Thanks for your input by the way
 
Other than measure twice cut once
 
Looks simple but believe me it awkward as hell šŸ˜œ I use a good quality clear silicone to stick panels then brace them , get yourself some masking tape to draw your cut lines onto far easier to see . Kop
 

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Looks simple but believe me it awkward as hell šŸ˜œ I use a good quality clear silicone to stick panels then brace them , get yourself some masking tape to draw your cut lines onto far easier to see . Kop
What a transformation KOP. Are the panels tongue and groove? Looks great.
 
Well, I was going to use the cardboard that the wet wall sheets arrived in to make a template of each wall. Once happy with its fit, I would transfer my template to the panel and cut it to shape.

Or 3mm ply and hot glue I use for fun shapes
 
Looks simple but believe me it awkward as hell šŸ˜œ I use a good quality clear silicone to stick panels then brace them , get yourself some masking tape to draw your cut lines onto far easier to see . Kop
KOP. I'm not entirely sure if there is a Direct Message option on this forum, you may feel happier answering the following via a direct message, rather than posting in public...
That bathroom that you've just sent pictures of looks fairly similar to ours that I'm working on. It's taking me ages to do, because I'm doing it at weekends and occasionally in the week, if I'm struggling to get on with my job because of the weather. Additionally, Im not a bathroom installer/plumber, so when I come across issues, (of which there have been many), I have to investigate options or products that will resolve the issue. I really care about doing a good a job within my knowledge. May I ask how long the bathroom you did in the pictures took you and how much it would cost the customer? I completely understand if you'd rather not. I only as cause the Mrs complained the other day, saying it would have been cheaper to get someone in. šŸ¤£šŸ¤£
 
Well if that's the case Ben -gee then I'll move to another product there's more than one mate I've used shower wall which is MDF but didn't rate it , I'm using the frost white this week must be older stock as it's ply backed ? Kop
Yes I told my supplier that Iā€™m not happy to use mdf ( even if they call it exterior) so Iā€™ll be switching to Mermaid Trade panel , he told me they were likely to go mdf too but not yet.
It looks like the ā€œnuance typeā€ minced up plastic panels may have to rear their ugly heads sgain!
 
Just a word of caution the cheap 250mm wide panel is really not good it punctures super easily and is second rate stuff. Looks nice new. I have used classi seals a lot and I have taken baths and showers out with them on and it's pretty resilient stuff. Tiler can still tile over it as it only sticks up 50mm or so
 
What a transformation KOP. Are the panels tongue and groove? Looks great.
Yes I get the panels hydrolocked when ordering it takes two people to do the job and it can easily take a 5 days to just do the paneling in a whole bathroom , and you really need the proper equipment stands to support the panels and a rail saw is a must and gives a nice machined edge, hand saws, jigsaws won't cut it and will chip and damage the laminate a whole bathroom can take 3 weeks+ and costs vary on complexity, your shower I'd say around Ā£1000 to prep and fit out , a whole bathroom can be Ā£6000 - Ā£10,000. Depends on the finish and chosen fixtures and fittings flooring , ventilation and electrical work . Kop
 
Have to disagree there's never over kill where showers and trays are involved the prep is the most important part of the job, I do at least 10 - 20 a year and from reading the ops description of what's he has I'd seriously consider it ?
I wouldn't personally use a 3 mm board for showers , I'd use the thicker 9 mm cellular shower boards for a more affordable job , l'm starting one on Monday with Multi panel my favoured product. Kop
Hi KOP. May I ask, why would you not use the 3mm boards. Can you elaborate please?

If there is going to problems during installation, I would prefer to know before hand, especially if you have advice on how to work around any potential problems.

Your advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks
 
They are to thin for my liking ok for splash backs but not robust enough for me, but manufacturers instructions say they can be used so your choice really . Kop
 
Have to disagree there's never over kill where showers and trays are involved the prep is the most important part of the job, I do at least 10 - 20 a year and from reading the ops description of what's he has I'd seriously consider it ?
I wouldn't personally use a 3 mm board for showers , I'd use the thicker 9 mm cellular shower boards for a more affordable job , l'm starting one on Monday with Multi panel my favoured product. Kop
Here we go shower bath removed , tiles stripped now working on the prep on the walls this one will have a raised tray to accommodate the waste , first fix today before multi panel later this week šŸ˜‰šŸ‘. Kop
 

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