Removing siezed tails from a brass towel rail

[timc1960]

Hi,
I am replacing an old towel rail that has started leaking with another old one the same size.
The original was made of steel and has rusted through in several places so that it is weeping from several places.
The replacement is made of brass so this shouldn't be an issue however I am having to make some minor changes to get it in.
One of which is that I need to remove and replace the tails as they are too long to fit into the gap between the valves where they come out of the floor.
The tails did have a lot of limescale round them where they have been seeping (another reason for getting them out and using ptfe tape on the new ones).

So, any ideas on how to get the tails out as they just don't seem to want to move.
(I have used killrok to dissolve the limescale that was there but I don't know how far this has got into the threads).

All and any ideas gratefully received.
Prepared to try anything with the possible exception of buy another towel rail, can't find one the right size :-(

Thanks

 

[exedon2]

Presume you mean the valve tails?
Carefully apply some heat blowlamp heat gun whatever
Don't over do it and discolour the chrome.

 

[Chuck]

All and any ideas gratefully received.

I'm a fan of 'PlusGas' for pre-treating seized parts before getting the spanners on, e.g.

Building & Construction

A guide to using PlusGas on machinery and tools in the building & construction industry.

www.plusgas.co.uk

Try to find the correct sized spanner(s), preferably a Snap-On socket (if a socket is possible) and definitely not an adjustable. This will allow you to apply more torque while causing less damage.

 

[nicam49]

I'm having difficulty understanding exactly what it is you have to remove, is it flexible tails from the original towel rail or from the 'new' one? Do you mean you can't undo the nuts or once the nuts are loosened the tails won't pull off? can you upload a picture? Thanks

 

[timc1960]

Hi nicam49,
It is the tails that screw into the towel rail that the LSV would connect to.
I have attached a pic as requested.
Hi chuck,
Can of plusgas on order, thanks for the tip.
Hi exedon2,
Have tried this but no luck, (also had a pair of moles on the tail to try and keep it a bit cooler so it didn't expand at the same rate).
Cheers
Tim

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Allen key internally and a bar

But they might not come out as there manufactures eg might be welded in

 

[timc1960]

Hi shauncorbs,
I have the allen key but haven't tried the bar on it, I tried a spanner instead.
I'll try a piece of steel tube to extend the allen key to give some extra leverage.
Not sure about the welding as it's made of brass but I suppose it could have been solver soldered although the rest of the joints appear to have been lead soldered as they melt at quite a low temperature.
(Had to remove the mounts that go backwards from the top of the towel rail to mount onto the wall as they were too long and I've cut the pipes down so it fits better and have to remount the plates that I took off)
Cheers
Tim

 

[timc1960]

OK, finally got them out with a combination of plusgas and an extension on the allen key to give me some leverage.
Thanks to you all for the suggestions.
Even managed to get the wall plates and a replacement bleed valve soldered in as well as fitted the shorter tails with plenty of PTFE tape.
All I've got to do now is fit it and pray it holds water

Then the final two jobs, replace the two port valve and get the boiler either fixed or a new one fitted.
Any ideas on a replacement for a Halstead Balmoral 65 (badged as Wickes).

I've been keeping it going for years but I think it's finally beaten me.
The pilot flame isn't big enough to reach the flame sensor all the time so the boiler re-lights from time to time.
Unless of course someone knows how to fix that problem.
I have taken the pilot apart and cleaned the two holes out which were a bit bunged up but it hasn't improved it enough.
Open to suggestions if you have any.

Cheers

Tim

 

[timc1960]

Reading the box, that should have been a three port mid position valve.
The one that diverts between heating the tank or the rads.

 

[nicam49]

Is it possible to move the flame sensor so that it's closer to the flame....

 

[timc1960]

Tried that but can't get it close enough.
I've managed to get a replacement for the part at the bottom of the pilot that restricts the flow of gas so I'll give that a try over the week-end.
Hopefully it's that not the gas valve as they are obsolete

 

[nicam49]

Tried that but can't get it close enough.
I've managed to get a replacement for the part at the bottom of the pilot that restricts the flow of gas so I'll give that a try over the week-end.
Hopefully it's that not the gas valve as they are obsolete

Let us know how you get on! (I hate to see orphaned threads with no feedback or resolution) I thought there would be a pilot flame height adjusting screw at least, but maybe not if your experience is anything to go by... unless someone else on the forum knows differently......Good luck with that new part

 

[timc1960]

Flame adjusting screw??
Whereabouts would that be?
Is that likely to be the one on the solonoid valves?
I think it says in the manual that it is for adjusting for different gas pressures but is set in the factory.
I'm guessing it would be better to get someone in for that as they could also check to see if the pressure regulator on the meter is still working properly. It's 34 years old and has never been checked since install and looked second hand when it was put in. How long do they normally last for?
The meter was changed about 15 years ago but not the regulator.
Is that worth checking?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Need a gas safe engineer sorry to say