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Discuss Rayburn 499k intermittent lockout in the Plumbing Forum | Plumbing Advice area at PlumbersForums.net

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Boiler and cooker will fire up initially however when temperature hit neither will reignite, they go to lockout
You can hear them switch and the solenoids switch but the fan pre purge does not engage, if I continually turn the boiler temperature switch on and off eventually the fan kicks in and everything fires up? I’ve swamped solenoids over, photocells, and control boxes, cleaned the fan blades etc, any ideas?
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Boiler and cooker will fire up initially however when temperature hit neither will reignite, they go to lockout
You can hear them switch and the solenoids switch but the fan pre purge does not engage, if I continually turn the boiler temperature switch on and off eventually the fan kicks in and everything fires up? I’ve swamped solenoids over, photocells, and control boxes, cleaned the fan blades etc, any ideas?
Should also mention this has occurred over the past few weeks before that it was working perfect.
 
Are both burners not igniting? These cookers have two motors, one for cooker fan and oil pump the other for boiler fan, are both not working?
 
Are both burners not igniting? These cookers have two motors, one for cooker fan and oil pump the other for boiler fan, are both not working?
Both are igniting when I initially get them going, they work perfect up to the desired temperature but when they try to engage a while after, you can hear a switch, a buzz then the solenoids switching but no fan, then lockout.
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Both are igniting when I initially get them going, they work perfect up to the desired temperature but when they try to engage a while after, you can hear a switch, a buzz then the solenoids switching but no fan, then lockout.
Also if I turn the boiler or cooker dial setting on and of several times it does fire up and goes on to reach temperature, and the lockout cycle continues...
 
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Can you send me a picture of burners please.
It sounds like a motor is not rotating
I’ve taken another look over all fittings etc and found the capacitor loose and very sticky around the top and the connectors, after trawling various forums I found a post describing almost the same symptoms as mine, that was a failing capacitor. As mine is sticky/leaking and negligible in cost I will replace Monday along with blast tube fire seals (mine have seen better days)
 

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Yes everything you've said would suggest it's the capacitor. Do you have a multimetre that can read capacitance? While replacing the cap I would check for tight spots on fuel pump and motor at the same time.

Edit: multiple burners have been used for these cookers I believe and my original comment about two motors is not relevant for the ecoflam replacement
 
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Yes everything you've said would suggest it's the capacitor. Do you have a multimetre that can read capacitance? While replacing the cap I would check for tight spots on fuel pump and motor at the same time.
I’ve got test equipment, I’ll take a measurement to confirm, any idea what the reading should be ?
I’ll try and pick one up Monday and hope it works. I’ll post an update as soon as it’s done. I hope it’s that’s simple!
 
Have a look on the capacitor and it should tell you the microfarad rating, symbol uF. Probably 4.5 or 5 uF. A healthy cap is anything above 70% of original value. If you said there is signs of dielectric material leaking then I suspect its value will be lower than 70%. To be safe short the cap out before touching using a metal shafted, handle insulated screwdriver just to make sure, although the current from a cap is a reaction to the change in voltage across it and should be discharged. You might need suitably rated connectors to reattach the new one.
 
SJB060685, I had to order the capacitor as I couldn't find one locally (Christmas and all!). It arrived this lunchtime and fitted this afternoon, I am happy to report since firing it back up approximately 3 hours ago it hasn't missed a beat. I hope this continues, I will also get a spare capacitor in stock just incase!!!
At least now im not constantly pressing the reset, so much spare time now...
Thanks again for your assistanace
hello mate, do you have the details of the Cap you bought for the Rayburn. serial, etc. I have the same issue and will follow your lead here. cheers
 
Have a look on the capacitor and it should tell you the microfarad rating, symbol uF. Probably 4.5 or 5 uF. A healthy cap is anything above 70% of original value. If you said there is signs of dielectric material leaking then I suspect its value will be lower than 70%. To be safe short the cap out before touching using a metal shafted, handle insulated screwdriver just to make sure, although the current from a cap is a reaction to the change in voltage across it and should be discharged. You might need suitably rated connectors to reattach the new one.
SJB060685, I had to order the capacitor as I couldn't find one locally (Christmas and all!). It arrived this lunchtime and fitted this afternoon, I am happy to report since firing it back up approximately 3 hours ago it hasn't missed a beat. I hope this continues, I will also get a spare capacitor in stock just incase!!!
At least now im not constantly pressing the reset, so much spare time now...
Thanks again for your assistanace
 
That's good to know my friend. Yes get a couple caps as spare and store in a safe dry space.
Don't get into the habit of constantly pressing the reset button everytime a lockout occurs. It's not good for the burner components trying to constantly start and fail, any problems ask on here.
If you felt compelled to google it you'll find information on how a capacitor works so you have a better understanding, or I can tell you.
Well done and happy new year 🙂
 

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