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TimMinor

Hello,

Hopefully this is the right place to ask such an amateur question...

Our kitchen taps are shot through; they drip, shudder, stick and need replacing. Unfortunately the people who installed the kitchen don't seem to have put in a valve section to the pipework, so to turn the water off it looks like I have to turn off the mains water and drain the hot tank.

To make this easier in the future I'd like to add a simple tap valve / ball valve? onto the pipe work under the sink but I have no idea what to buy...

I'm guessing a ball valve or a check valve? E.g. http://www.*************/c/heating-plumbing/valves/cat831686

I've attached a photo of the current pipework. I'm guessing I need something like the blue tap value (bottom left) that leads to the washing machine?

Any ideas?

Many thanks in advance,
Tim
 

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The link was to Screwfix, to this section:

Home > Heating & Plumbing > Plumbing > Pipe Fittings > Brassware > Valves
 
Fantastic, thanks so much. Does it have a name? Presumably I need to worry about sizes: mm or inches etc.?
 
Awesome, cheers guys!

Pushing my luck here... do you think it's likely there'll be a value in the loft to shut off the hot water flowing to the taps, or is a complete drain likely?
 
the one in the airing cupboard will be a gate valve(brass with red handle) and there's a strong possibility it wont turn, dont force it !
just drain down and re-fill.
 
Don't drain down. Try the gate valve,that's what its there for. Just don't force it if its stuck. If you can't isolate hot water bung the header tank and open a hot tap til vacuum stops flow then cut in the isolation valve

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
 
looking at your pic you don't need to cut the pipework to fit the new valves. just undo the nuts on the pipes where the flexis attach, put the valves on the top of the pipes (with the arrows pointing with the flow) get two small lengths of copper pipe about 2-3 inches fix that to the top of the valves then reattach the flexis to the top of the new bits of pipe.
 
They pretty much all come with compression fittings for 15mm so you should be fine, they may be flexi or they may be copper, if copper then it would be easiest for you to buy 2 1/2" 15mm flexible tap connector from a plumbers merchant. Not B+Q as you'll pay 3x as much for them.
 
The link was to Screwfix, to this section:

Home > Heating & Plumbing > Plumbing > Pipe Fittings > Brassware > Valves

If you wanted something that is easier to isolate without a screwdriver, have a look at the Pegler ball valves that have a lever or thumb turn on them.

They are a bit more costly though ~ÂŁ5.

If you do decide to cut the pipe, it may be better to install the cold water isolation valve before the washing machine valve incase you need to replace that in the future.
 
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Hi TimMinor

No need to drain down whole system. You need to find where to turn off cold water - should be the stop tap. There will be a pipe from the loft feeding the bottom of your hot water cylinder. Gate valve on this pipe (the one you're warned not to force too much) turns off the hot water as it stops feeding the cylinder.

Run kitchen taps separately to ensure water is not coming out or only at a trickle.

Fit 15mm isolating valves (ballofix)/ whatever. Put towel under pipework to catch water left in tap and pipe - should only be a glassful or so. If you do have a trickle opening another downstairs hot and cold tap might reduce this.

Then check for leaks. If leaking, buy some ptfe tape, undo your nuts again and wrap the tape around the olive a few times, tighten nuts, then try water again.

Then change kitchen taps.





Then get a plumber in to finish things off ..... [cough, splutter] ...!!!
 
Also think about getting the full-flow type, normel ball-o-fix valve is about 10mm inside, full-flow better if you have low water pressure.
 
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Reply to Quick question about what type of valve I need to buy (kitchen tap pipes) in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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