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Hi,

I'm just in the process of having my house replumbed using a combi, and have a question on the final connection to the bath taps. Up until recently my plumbing knowledge started and finished where the water came out at the taps, so excuse my ignorance :confused:

As it stands I can see the plumber has left two 15mm pipes there (reduced from 22mm as it runs through the bedroom, so say about 1.5 meters of 15mm), as he will be fitting the bath back down next week. I asked that he does the final connection using isolators and flexi, (something along the lines of this WRAS Hose 15mm Valve x ¾â€￾ F x 300mm x 10mm - NoLinkingToThis, Where the Trade Buys), as I've been told by other people who have had it done, that that is the best way.

He flat out refused, and said it wasn't needed and the connection will just go straight into the taps, using I presume, some other kind of copper 15mm > 3/4 connection.

So, my question is, who is right? He's not the most approachable of guys, so I want to be sure of my ground when I next speak to him.

Thanks.
 
the plumber would use a tap connector and be piped rigid with copper pipe , cant you ask him to put isolation valves underneath ? you shouldnt need iso valves you have a combi its easy to turn off . if you are using single taps for the bath it is best not to use flexible hoses because the tap works its self loose and they spin .
 
I try to use as little flexi's as possible, many would describe them as being for lazy plumbers or diy'ers. Its much better to use copper into a 15mmx3/4" tap connector.
I would still put isolation valves on, combi or not.
 
your plumber is a "real" plumber, let him get on with his job, i've never been a lover of iso's under baths usually more bother than they are worth, although water byelaws now ask for an isolator at each supply to lessen wasted water when maintenance is done, but as already mentioned with a combi the wasteage will be minimal
 
Thanks for the quick replies. I'll ask him again about the isolator valves, but if he refuses again, at least I know now it's not a big deal.
 
Yes, the copper piping and the isolation valves are the good practice--both. In this case, it seems to be the personality of your technician that is not ideal. But you wouldn't want things to be the other way around (good personality, bad practice), would you?

Take it easy now.
 
fitting isolation valves can only help with later maintanace , but make sure you use good quality , full bore valves like a lever valve so no restriction .
 
Lever valves behind a basin look lovely lol
And real plumbers don't fit iso valves or flexi hoses get real and join the year 2010 if you get good flexi hoses they are far beter than copper tails been to far more leaks on rigid joins than any flexi
I'd love to see anyone pipe a back to wall wc with rigid pipework
If any of these so called real plumbers get flexis on any taps I bet they don't take them off and replace
 
When I remove a bath panel I rarely see iso valves unless I installed the bath. Turning water off at a customers can be time consuming and troublesome if you're just changing taps.
Decent iso's that turn off and dont leak is what you want.
 
Lever valves behind a basin look lovely lol
And real plumbers don't fit iso valves or flexi hoses get real and join the year 2010 if you get good flexi hoses they are far beter than copper tails been to far more leaks on rigid joins than any flexi
I'd love to see anyone pipe a back to wall wc with rigid pipework
If any of these so called real plumbers get flexis on any taps I bet they don't take them off and replace

i'm sorry i just dont agree with this, copper pipe properly fitted will far outlast any flexi, which isnt full bore therefore resticts the flow, i appreciate there may be times when a flexi is a better option, but under a bath? never, a real plumber can pipe a bath in copper which will still be sound after 20yrs, ok you have been to copper pipes that leak, that just means you are following DIYers around (good for you and i hope you charge plenty) on the point of me finding flexis and changing them, it depends on the styate of them and why i'm there and if the customer wants to pay me to remove them, but flip this comment over, when you find all the copper leaking do you rip them out and fit flexis
 
No I use 22mm full bore flexis never had a problem
We all differ in work what one man likes another hates
 
No I use 22mm full bore flexis never had a problem
We all differ in work what one man likes another hates

you are right we all differ, and 32yrs ago when i started we didnt have flexis so i used copper, what is the cost of full bore flexis and the advantage to using flexis rather than copper
 
You're right, real plumbers don't use flexis. Or use any fittings either, you should just bend lengths to all angles you want on one continuous piece. And don't use a bender, use your teeth.

In 20 years time when nobody solders anymore because there's this cheap powder you sprinkle on a fitting that joins them all together just as good I imagine I'll be there saying "real plumbers don't sprinkle."
 
The moment a customer starts telling me how I should do my job against the better judgment of my knowlege and exp is the moment I pick up my tools and leave, (Iam down to a customer base of 2:p). Joking aside let him get on with it.
 
I cant be a real plumber then, sorry folks I thought I was for a while.

Wash hand basins - Cost of iso, tap connector, time to bend copper and cost of copper versus cost of flex tap connector wi iso valve. oh and whats wrong with a bit of flow restriction?

Baths - no great need for iso's but I would sometimes fit them if not grav fed and handy for isolation during fixes.
 
I do it both ways and on basins i often bring the copper up through the floor and reduce to 10mm and use white hep up only if it is a MOno mixer and is a combi or an unvented. If tanked I will take the copper up all the way as i would with two taps. Flexis do come in handy and I have used them often but if they are on show they look a bit DIY ish. On basins they are easy to hide with a cable tie round the waste.

Baths well as far as ISOs go I don't bother and if I am doing maintenance on a tap I take the bath panel off as a last resort because there are that many that are poorly fitted it's more trouble than its worth. On a combi or an unvented you won't notice any flow restriction via a flexi but I do tent to go up to the bath in copper although I do like push fit tap connectors with a metal nut and rubber washer.
 
I've never bought any Hep 2o tap connectors but I have a few reclaimed ones in the van, the washer is conned shaped (as you all know) and it seals even if the pipe is at an angle.

Very good design.
 
As for full bore valves, there are plenty of those with a slot head or even the Pegler "T" range look OK.
 
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