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Maybe Murdoch should come in on this one ?? He knows his stuff on Electrics
 
Only a years warranty and a D sebuk rating , I wish you well with it bud but alarm bells are ringing for me anyway. All the best kop
 
Same as a slim Jim good units
 
Although I know quite a bit on electricity I'm by no means a qualified electrician. Is a 100 amp supply really going to be enough for a 12 kw boiler at full load and all other appliances running?
 
Although I know quite a bit on electricity I'm by no means a qualified electrician. Is a 100 amp supply really going to be enough for a 12 kw boiler at full load and all other appliances running?

yes easily 12kw is 50amps provided he doesn’t run a big 20 plus amp cooker at the same time

also 12 kw is max load when the system warms up this could drop to around 6kw
 
yes easily 12kw is 50amps provided he doesn’t run a big 20 plus amp cooker at the same time

also 12 kw is max load when the system warms up this could drop to around 6kw

That's my point mate. Yes the boiler will modulate but what when it's -2°c outside, the boiler is at full output and then you switch on an electric cooker, plus your 1 or 2 32 amp ring mains and your lighting circuits etc etc. Admittedly this is an extreme situation scenario but like heating systems shouldn't all electrical systems be designed with max load in consideration?
 
Actually no, they are not designed at maximum load - diversification is applied, don’t forget most heating elements actually cycle off/on to maintain a given temperature and pretty much anything that is not a heating element does not draw much current.
I’m over simplifying, but you get my drift.
 
Actually no, they are not designed at maximum load - diversification is applied, don’t forget most heating elements actually cycle off/on to maintain a given temperature and pretty much anything that is not a heating element does not draw much current.
I’m over simplifying, but you get my drift.

Thanks buddy. Yes I totally understand you and to be honest it's not something I knew. Many thanks 🙏.
 
Only a years warranty and a D sebuk rating , I wish you well with it bud but alarm bells are ringing for me anyway. All the best kop
Cheers, I spoke with them again today and laid it all out for them on the table, the potential bills from gas being 4 to 5x cheaper and whilst they were like yeah okay that's cool.. they still want electric. Honestly what more can I do? They don't want a gas boiler, period. There is no alternative. They asked what I would do, I said gas all day long, combi boiler, and bring gas in to cook on too. They're not interested, I think it also matters that these people are quite wealthy so the allure of saving money doesn't really grip them as much. What I'm going to do is arrange the system so in the event of a backfire (which I don't think will happen) I can just put a heat only gas boiler in with ease, I'm all out of ideas bar turning the job down.
 
Actually no, they are not designed at maximum load - diversification is applied, don’t forget most heating elements actually cycle off/on to maintain a given temperature and pretty much anything that is not a heating element does not draw much current.
I’m over simplifying, but you get my drift.
Agreed Ben- gee its the diversity factor if you take the full current loading of all the breakers in the fused board it could be way higher than 100 amps but each of of these circuits will not all be at full load so diversity is applied .
 
That's my point mate. Yes the boiler will modulate but what when it's -2°c outside, the boiler is at full output and then you switch on an electric cooker, plus your 1 or 2 32 amp ring mains and your lighting circuits etc etc. Admittedly this is an extreme situation scenario but like heating systems shouldn't all electrical systems be designed with max load in consideration?

same as any normal house as

45 amps for a electric shower
32 amp ring
20 amp kitchen
32 amp cooker

you will find a normal house will run at 20-25 amps at peak
 
Same as a slim Jim good units
Here's one installed but as said very expensive to run did the job on a off grid holiday home added a nest for smart control on the heating side left the hot water on a Honeywell programmer
 

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Here's one installed but as said very expensive to run did the job on a off grid holiday home added a nest for smart control on the heating side left the hot water on a Honeywell programmer
Lovely mate, pre plumb stelflow, I'm going to go pre plumb aswell the time saved is worth the extra 80 quid or whatever in my humble opinion
 
Have they got space in the consumer unit for another breaker?

Who’s running the electric?
Are you competent?
Potential extra cost?
Is there a route for the new supply?
Depending on the route, you could be looking at a 16mm cable.
 
Have they got space in the consumer unit for another breaker?

Who’s running the electric?
Are you competent?
Potential extra cost?
Is there a route for the new supply?
Depending on the route, you could be looking at a 16mm cable.
Electrician
yes
yes
consumer unit in the same room as boiler
 

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