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Discuss Pump goosed or something else? in the Central Heating Forum area at PlumbersForums.net

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Hello plumbers forums!

After some much needed help if I may? I currently have a couple of issues with my heating, the pump is noisy on occasion, especially when it’s finished heating and pump continues to run. I’ve checked the small tank in the loft and it has water in it, albeit the bottom of the tank is orange - corrosion/rust? I also have to occasionally bleed one radiator on the first floor.

System is vented, newish build (10 years old) I have lived in from new, I am lead to believe it was treated with protection, pump is Wilo smart 25/6?

Attached video

Thoughts welcome.

View: https://youtu.be/S9sIMmay7oM
 
It sounds like the bearings are worn out. I suppose it's possible there is air trapped in it causing the noise but I think it's the bearings.

You could try bleeding the pump but if that doesn't work then I suspect the pump will need replacing. To bleed the pump you need to partially undo the screw on the front of the pump. Hold a rag up to the front of the pump and unscrew the bleed port on the front about half to one turn. You will get a dribble of water out of there and maybe some air. If/when water runs freely from the port, nip it back up. No need to overtighten, just enough to stop the water coming out.

Really though I think the pump is shot but bleeding it will do no harm.
 
It sounds like the bearings are worn out. I suppose it's possible there is air trapped in it causing the noise but I think it's the bearings.

You could try bleeding the pump but if that doesn't work then I suspect the pump will need replacing. To bleed the pump you need to partially undo the screw on the front of the pump. Hold a rag up to the front of the pump and unscrew the bleed port on the front about half to one turn. You will get a dribble of water out of there and maybe some air. If/when water runs freely from the port, nip it back up. No need to overtighten, just enough to stop the water coming out.

Really though I think the pump is shot but bleeding it will do no harm.

Many thanks, I suppose it kind of confirms my suspicion that I thought it didn’t sound right. I’ve seen a DAB evosta, I’ve never heard of them only Grundfos and Wilo. It saves me having to work out pump head.
 
Many thanks, I suppose it kind of confirms my suspicion that I thought it didn’t sound right. I’ve seen a DAB evosta, I’ve never heard of them only Grundfos and Wilo. It saves me having to work out pump head.

If you are in a 2 storey building then a 5 metre head pump will be fine. As you have already found the DAB Evosta pumps are configurable up to 18 metres head I see but I don't have any experience with that brand/model of pump.
 
Many thanks, I suppose it kind of confirms my suspicion that I thought it didn’t sound right. I’ve seen a DAB evosta, I’ve never heard of them only Grundfos and Wilo. It saves me having to work out pump head.

You were/are probably getting some pump over to your feed & expansion tank with your present pump, its very important that the replacement pump has as many options as possible, the DAB Evosta 4/7M pump has 3 traditional constant speeds and I think 6 PP (proportional pressure) settings which may do the job but I would suggest a Wilo Yonis Pico 1/6M which has the 3 traditional constant speeds plus PP (proportional pressure) and CP (constant pressure) settings which both can be incrementally changed in 0.1M steps which should/will satisfy most requirements, there is also a 5M version but they seem to be a bit of a odd ball so I would stick to a 6M (or maybe the 7M DAB).
Can you see the setting of your present pump?.
 
I think the Wilo Stratos Pico might be the recommended model for yours, this may be the actual pump installed or maybe (yours) just has the 3 speed settings. (The attachment may actually show your pump)
I would still think that the Yonos Pico will do the job quite well for you as you may be able to choose a setting that gives you adequate circulation but no pump over.
 

Attachments

  • Wilo Stratos.zip
    706.3 KB · Views: 3
I think the Wilo Stratos Pico might be the recommended model for yours, this may be the actual pump installed or maybe (yours) just has the 3 speed settings. (The attachment may actually show your pump)
I would still think that the Yonos Pico will do the job quite well for you as you may be able to choose a setting that gives you adequate circulation but no pump over.

Thanks John, mine is the smart 25/6, b energy rated. I’ve since ordered the DAB, but thanks for recommending the other Wilo. I can’t view attachment. I’ve uploaded a photo of my current pump.
 

Attachments

  • 7E0E3132-7F98-4FE2-9918-F299B163A953.jpeg
    7E0E3132-7F98-4FE2-9918-F299B163A953.jpeg
    106 KB · Views: 4
Hello plumbers forums!

After some much needed help if I may? I currently have a couple of issues with my heating, the pump is noisy on occasion, especially when it’s finished heating and pump continues to run. I’ve checked the small tank in the loft and it has water in it, albeit the bottom of the tank is orange - corrosion/rust? I also have to occasionally bleed one radiator on the first floor.

System is vented, newish build (10 years old) I have lived in from new, I am lead to believe it was treated with protection, pump is Wilo smart 25/6?

Attached video

Thoughts welcome.

View: https://youtu.be/S9sIMmay7oM
You need a new pump a power flush and new inhibitor added as a minimum. Plus make sure the header tank gets a good clean out.
 
You need a new pump a power flush and new inhibitor added as a minimum. Plus make sure the header tank gets a good clean out.

Hello and thanks for reading and responding. I went for the chemical flush as not sure a powerflush would be needed at this stage. Cleaned smaller tank of the 2, as best I could, fited my new pump, new radiator, and added protector.
 
Seems a pretty good choice, you might let us know what setting you finally settle on.

Hi John,

An update:
  • Drained small tank
  • Cleaned tank as best I could with blue roll
  • added Adey MC3 cleaner to system and circulated for approx 2 days (on heating and hot water standard times).
  • Drained down today whole system including any ground floor radiators
  • Fitted new pump and replaced a radiator
  • Checked and Tightened bleed plugs and blanks as found a loose one
  • Filled system adding Adey MC1 protector
  • Got all radiators hot on setting 3 and opted for setting 2, I think. Not sure if correct setting, but I have 10 radiators, 3 bedrooms, open plan most of downstairs, detached new build (thinking more for heat retention)
Any feedback appreciated. Edited: is Adey stuff any good? Ive heard good reviews on their magnet filters
 
That should be a good setting as setting 2 on that 7M pump is equivalent to a 5.5M pump on speed 3, very close to your 6M original on speed 3. It would be very interesting if you were to try it on PP6 setting, sometime at your leisure, you might try it or even PP5.

Don't know anything about inhibitor, I must confess I have only added the odd drop now and then to my (open vented) system but still have some of my original > 40 year old rads, IMO, the key to system longevity is to have no leakage or air ingress but it certainly cannot but help to add inhibitor as well.
 
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That should be a good setting as setting 2 on that 7M pump is equivalent to a 5.5M pump on speed 3, very close to your 6M original on speed 3. It would be very interesting if you were to try it on PP6 setting, sometime at your leisure, you might try it or even PP5.

I’m not sure what is meant by this? I have it on a solid green light, number 2? The arrow on original was pointing down, and have fitted new to the same, do you know if this is correct?
 
See page 3 of attachment, for constant speed2 you need the arrow illuminated and the 2 bottom green lights solid on.
try it sometime on PP5 which is a "pump curve" illuminated and a slow flashing top LED with two solid bottom LEDs. If you find rads a bit slow to heat up in this mode go to PP6 which is the "pump curve" illuminated with 3 solid green lights.
If however you are finding that CS1 (constant speed1) is adequate then PP5 will IMO certainly meet your demands with nice little savings as TRVs or zone valves close in which is the whole point of PP control, its just a pity that the Evosta doesn't display the power in watts as this is a great aid to navigation, most others, including my own Wilo Yonos Pico, do.
 

Attachments

  • DAB EVOSTA 4-7.pdf
    967.1 KB · Views: 3
Last edited:

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