pipe freeze near boiler

[Neil T]

i've got a job coming up to install a rad in garage conversion near to the boiler. was thinking of freezing the pipes to T pipework off to rad to save draining system but was wondering what minimum distance should be from boiler, as dont want to do any damage to the boiler?
was also looking at heat gels too to try and stop the ice bung from thawing too quick. seen one at phex the other week and should of bought some and now cant remember what it was called any recommendations for this stuff?
cheers

 

[Killy Bing]

Is it worth the risk?
Is it a big system?
Is it sealed or open vented?
are you using an electronic freezer or can sprays?

 

[Ermintrude]

Just drain it , probs end up it draining its self !

 

[Neil T]

Is it worth the risk?
Is it a big system?
Is it sealed or open vented?
are you using an electronic freezer or can sprays?

Its an old glowworm combi with 7 rads and was going to use cans. I can work around 500-600mm away from boiler on pipework and rad is to fitted about 2m from boiler.

 

[heliotrope]

No problem to freeze pipe work up close to boiler.

You would only be freezing a few millimetres either side of the clamp. Would
have no affect on the boiler.

If you are that close to boiler then go for a compression tee if if it makes you feel
easier.

 

[Killy Bing]

I personally REALLY don't like cans, i pinch someones freezer if i HAVE to freeze it.
im guessing its a sealed system i would simply drain it.
open vented then fair cop if its going to take ages to fill.

If you feel you must freeze it then i would make up a compression tee going to a valve and work from there rather than solder anywhere near the ice plug as you're using cans.

 

[heliotrope]

Bit slow on my typing tonight.

500 mill from boiler is as good as a mile.

No problem, go for it.

 

[Neil T]

Cheers for replies lads. 1king55 would that be a full bore iso or standard valve from comp fitting?

 

[Killy Bing]

I personally always use full bore on my own jobs.

Being the go to donkey for doing other peoples snagging (i got trained by four different one man bands i still work for)

I like to reduce any chance of a call back on my own work!!

you could pipe from the rad back to the pipework and just have the compression tee? Just close the trv and lock-shield incase the ice plugs go before you finish the second pipe
i made that mistake once, hence why i don't like cans

out of interest how old are you and are you new to the industry?

 

[Neil T]

I'm 43 and fairly new to the trade. Recently set up on my own and trying to make a go of it with the least amount of mistakes as poss done some rad work before, changing valves and replacing, and been able to freeze without draining but just wanted to double check as it was close to boiler

 

[Neil T]

Was planning on working from rad to existing pipework as I'd find that easier and have enough time to connect T while pipe was frozen

 

[Killy Bing]

Keep at it try to get in with a few engineers too, you might not earn much out of it ( if anything to begin with) but that experience is worth more than gold!
good luck and post up how it goes

 

[Neil T]

Cheers, will do mate.
Have you used any of that heat gel stuff for pipes? If so could you recommend any as I quite like the idea of it

 

[Killy Bing]

I haven't used any.
soldering mat and an adjustable blow torch give enough control of the flame to avoid burning stuff.

Its a sound idea for use while soldering if you have an iceplug up the line, a better way would be soaking some cloth and loosely knotting it around the pipe to absorb the heat in my view.

give it a try, i think la-co do a product called cool jel.

let us know about that too!,

 

[Neil T]

Ok thanks for that, will do

 

[Ermintrude]

If your new to the game, it's a pressurised system why over complicate matters? Freezing? If it's an open vent just block f&e pipes and better than freezing? Plus u won't be spending all your money on cans of cold air? Get a wet vac to clean up any dribbles ? Honestly freezing is like using supercomputer with excel just to add up your shopping? If you were on a district heating job or a massive water system fair play. Don't want to sound too negative but this sort of job has been done lots of times without freezing kits, perhaps u should learn how to do this sort of work without them as one day you may not have them?

 

[Neil T]

Fair comment. As the rad is going to be lowest point and next to boiler pipework I didn't want to over complicate the job (drain, refill, bleed etc) and thought freezing would be quickest and easiest way of getting job done. Plus I'm doing it on saturday so want to be in pub before 3 for the footy

 

[Ermintrude]

Fair comment. As the rad is going to be lowest point and next to boiler pipework I didn't want to over complicate the job (drain, refill, bleed etc) and thought freezing would be quickest and easiest way of getting job done. Plus I'm doing it on saturday so want to be in pub before 3 for the footy

I would personally think is would take longer to freeze and thaw than drain and refill.

Plus when it's empty u can add inhibitor via new rads and ensue dilution. Close wheel heads / trvs on rads before u drain down, will help minimise filling.

 

[Neil T]

Again, fair comment mate. I'll take all comments, hints and tips on board, that's why I joined the forum, for the extra knowledge. I was just thinking it would be easier to do it that way because of the position of rad that's all

 

[Ermintrude]

Glad to have offered a different angle.

 

[Mike Jackson]

I agree with the pink cow. On a 7 rad sealed system it will be far quicker to drain down than muck about freezing. Adding a rad on a sealed system you'll be out of there by lunchtime.

 

[AWheating]

id drain down, you will want to flush out new pipework anyway. dont forget chemicals.

be careful when sticking any isolators on heating systems, alot are only rated for 65 degree water temp for hot and cold. Make sure they are suitable for heating temps.