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Wondering if anyone has any views on the following attempted diagram of my heating system.
There are no room thermostats, the heating is either on or off and the circulation pump comes on and off depending on the thermostat thats placed at the bottom output of the water cylinder coil
We have an oil boiler and an AGA, used separately, I assume thats what the motorised valves are for to isolate 1 from the other when not in use.
It works I guess although id like more control of the water/heating and we have some radiators that dont get warm

View attachment boilersmall.png
 
Its hard to picture the whole system from that image but what I can see doesn't look ideal.
There are a number of ways you can interlink such systems on the market (heat genie/H2 panels possibly and neutralizers). Alternatively and perhaps the cheapest would be a twin coil open vented cylinder (minimum of 200 litres with a range if memory serves me correct) and fully pumped CH and HW from boiler. I would also be looking at the fuel supply lines as well, you cannot risk starving the oil burner in Aga of fuel while boiler is running.
You say some rads aren't getting hot, are these ones on the top floor? Looking at the diagram I suspect the water is being pumped over into the vent.
 
I'd be looking at the heating innovations h2 panel. Lot of information and schematics on their website. Info also on Dunsley web site re neutralised.
 
Thanks for those replys, I should have stated the AGA is solid fuel
The cold radiator is on bottom floor, my thought on this process is the pipe 'ring main' is on the middle floor, what would make the heat go 'down' into the radiator on the bottom floor.
we have a 2 pipe setup for the radiators
 
Ok, so we have a solid fuel Aga and an oil boiler. As I said above there are numerous ways to interlink such systems, however it will NOT come cheap..
Google H2 Panels, Dunsley Neutralizer and Heat Genie, thermal store is also another option.
Please bare in mind to install such hydronic systems requires careful consideration and planning and should not be installed by someone without the proper knowledge and certifications.
With proper execution you will have a future proof system and complete control over demands needs but again this won't come cheap.

Edit : Is the problem radiator on the pumped CH circuit?
 
radiator is on the pumped ch circuit
thanks for the suggestion on the H2 panels looks ideal

I'm not an installer but know a few who are and swear by the H2 panels. They come pre plumbed and pre wired, all that's needed is pipes into the unit and a bit of external wiring, very good bits of kit so I'm told.
As for the radiator have you checked the obvious first? Ie. Air in rad and/or rad valves open. As I said before its hard to picture your whole system based on your diagram but I wouldn't be surprised if the pump was pumping over into the header tank. This would draw air into the system each time, which will lead to corrosion and the form of ferrous irons and black magnetite (sludge). Im not going to go into the science of it but both are roughly 5 times more dense than water and will settled in the rads. If this was the case and is very common then it could account for the problem radiator. There are other possibilities as well, ie pump not man enough or maybe on too low a setting.
If you're going to pursue a system like the H2 panels I would consider redoing everything from scratch, I'd hate the idea of you spending what will be quite a lot only to tap into existing parts of the system and encounter sludge problems and/or others.

Hope this helps
 
yes thanks again, Im looking at getting the H2 panel and as we also have an old oil boiler im going to look at having a fresh start and have it plumbed in properly.
I did check the lower radiator and the water is very black unlike the other radiators, so a flush is probably on the cards
 
Hi can you give some clarity on the aga cooker? Is it a standard 2 door model with boiler strapped to barrel or something larger?
We do a fair amount of work with aga's so interlinking something we're used to doing.
 
A proper power flush is an option and if done properly might help, although I once saw a system so badly laden with black magnetite the only real option was to start again, this was a system with a similar pump and vent orientation as yours and years of venting over took its toll.
Honestly if you're happy to spend good money and invest in a system of such design I'd seriously consider new everything, if you want to use existing parts of the system then OK but depending on how bad the sludge problem is and how the attending engineer approaches it you might not get all of it out.
Although I'm not an installer I love wrapping my head around such systems and I'd hate for you to employ an idiot, so please, please find the right person/firm for the job, you will benefit massively in the long run.
 

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