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New double panel column radiator

Cold

Turned off all rads not helped

Checked trv pin seems fine

Locksheild i think is ok see pic sttached

Its new so didnt need to flush

Cant really balance because the only thing that is hot is the copper pipes

So instructions came with it about how it flows or something i chose option 5 both my trv and lockshield are at the bottom someoje said one trv should he at top and one at bottom but iv never seen a rad with valves one up and one down

See pics
 

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Is the lockshield fully open?

Was there a radiator in that location before and if so did that work O.K?
If so was it smaller / larger / similar sized a the new one?
Where do the flow and return pipes originate

Could that radiator be mounted either way up, was there a sticker indicating Top /Bottom?
If there is a baffle in one of the headers it may have ended up at the top instead of the bottom although looking at the drawings I think they would have marked the baffle on there if there was one.

It should work flow and return in the bottom, if it did need to be top / Bottom there would have been a label on the radiator.
 
Last edited:
Is the bottom of the rad hot ?
 
And if you turn all the other trvs off on the rads it doesn’t get hot / any hotter
 
The product sheet says "When we place the order we will enter the ERP for the upper and lower", what does this mean.

Mabe shut both valves, remove the vent and then prove flow by alternatively opening/shutting valves.
 
No, on the top of the rad at one or both ends you should see blank plugs one of which should have a vent/bleed screw that you can open/remove with a screwdriver or a key.
Slacken this after shutting both valves, then remove it completely, put a dish/bucket under it and then open say the TRV fully first and you should get a good flow of water, shut the TRV then do likewise with the Lockshield valve.

1671283143049.png
 
Ok i did bleed it only water cameout

Ill try this lastthin
So

Where u bleed it take that whole part off from
The radiator then turn on the trv open it

Let watwr come out


Then go on other side take the bleed valve out that side and open lsv so water comes out

Generally what is this doing? Because it has got water in it
 
Need to remove the rad and put a piece of copper tube between the valves eg linking them and test like that if it works rads rubbish
 
Jyst remove the bleed vave at the end above the LSV and leave out, after first ensuring that both the TRV & the LSV are closed, the open the TRV fully, this proves that you have a good flow from/via the TRV, close the TRV and open the LSV fully, this then proves that the LSV has a good flow. All this proves is that both valves are working as they should.
 
Jyst remove the bleed vave at the end above the LSV and leave out, after first ensuring that both the TRV & the LSV are closed, the open the TRV fully, this proves that you have a good flow from/via the TRV, close the TRV and open the LSV fully, this then proves that the LSV has a good flow. All this proves is that both valves are working as they should.
Ah ok that makes sense

The other person said take the rad off

Ill try it this way as i think its easier
 
Jyst remove the bleed vave at the end above the LSV and leave out, after first ensuring that both the TRV & the LSV are closed, the open the TRV fully, this proves that you have a good flow from/via the TRV, close the TRV and open the LSV fully, this then proves that the LSV has a good flow. All this proves is that both valves are working as they should.
Just to confirm i only have one bleed valve on the trv side

The other side has a plain one thats all on the lsv side
 
Just to confirm i only have one bleed valve on the trv side

The other side has a plain one thats all on the lsv side

Doesn’t matter where the water comes out but matters make sure the valves are off and open one check water comes out and close that one then test the lockshield etc
 
Jyst remove the bleed vave at the end above the LSV and leave out, after first ensuring that both the TRV & the LSV are closed, the open the TRV fully, this proves that you have a good flow from/via the TRV, close the TRV and open the LSV fully, this then proves that the LSV has a good flow. All this proves is that both valves are working as they should.
Bleed vavle is on top of trv
 
Hello guyS

I have not tried what youbsaid

But i have felt the first three columns are warm and the bar across atthe bottom is warm


The rest 11 bars towards right mostly top and middle area are cold
Is/was the full length of the rad top warm/hot?.
"Ordinary" single+double pannel rads start off heating initially like that. If you bring a rad into service with the CH water already up to temperature you will see this effect. The hot water will rise up in the first say150/200 MM length of the rad at the inlet end, it will then get hot all along the top and gradually heat the whole rad from the top down.
Its unlikely, but there may be a baffle somewhere in your rad, if NOT in the top (rad upside down) then you can check it by shutting the TRV&LSV, open the vent screw to check that the valves are tight, remove the both blank plugs on rad top, get bit of stiff wire or a bit of copper or plastic piping if its OD is small enough and you should be able to push it right through from one end to the other, you may be able to check it simply by holding a light up against one end. If it does then of course, more messy but the same could be done in the bottom.
 
Morning, sounds like it's piped the wrong way round, try swapping it so flow goes through it the other way. Often the baffles are a column or two before the return.
 
Thank you john

The bottom is warmer

Top is not

Ill open the vavles and check through

Also it may not even help but im going to move my bleed valve to the other cold side to see if that helps and bleed on that side
 
Is/was the full length of the rad top warm/hot?.
"Ordinary" single+double pannel rads start off heating initially like that. If you bring a rad into service with the CH water already up to temperature you will see this effect. The hot water will rise up in the first say150/200 MM length of the rad at the inlet end, it will then get hot all along the top and gradually heat the whole rad from the top down.
This diverter is 145mm long and inserted at the inlet end.
1671377353595.png
 

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