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Discuss Moving toilet pipe back to wall in the Plumbing Forum | Plumbing Advice area at PlumbersForums.net

kazua2000

Messages
7
I wonder if someone could give me some advice please.

I am doing a bathroom renovation in a 60s house. I would like to move the cast iron waste pipe back to the wall. Then, I want to install Wall-Hung Toilet (please see link to frame bellow). There is a joist next to the back wall. I want to leave the joist in place and move the waste pipe as close to the joist as possible. I will make a timber frame to compensate for the distance between the toilet frame and wall. The floor will be 18mm ply.

I have done all other plumbing in the house, but I don't know how to move the cast iron pipe back to the wall. Is this a DIY job? Can I just cut it with a grinder and attach a plastic bend section? It would be great if you told me how to do it and maybe post links to products please.



Toilet Frame
 

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Undertrained

Plumber
Gas Engineer
Messages
1,325
Solutions
2
If I’m thinking correctly, by the time you’ve studded the wall out, and the frame is in, the you might not need it back to the wall (think it would prove difficult anyway) and just cut the branch back and use a 45 or less bend?
 

oz-plumber

Esteemed
Plumber
Messages
3,028
Lead sealed joints on cast iron sewer - and you want to alter as a DIY project.
Most plumbers would even ' be too busy for this one'

Solution:
Cut cast below junction.
Convert to plastic and go from there.
You will most probably have to renew the cast iron from where you cut it to where it vents through the roof
 

kazua2000

Messages
7
Lead sealed joints on cast iron sewer - and you want to alter as a DIY project.
Most plumbers would even ' be too busy for this one'

Solution:
Cut cast below junction.
Convert to plastic and go from there.
You will most probably have to renew the cast iron from where you cut it to where it vents through the roof
Cutting cast iron and replacing it with plastic all the way up to the roof sound like a bigger job. I am not sure if I want to do this. I am anxious that something could go wrong. My gut feeling is that I should not attempt this. I also think that the remaining cast iron pipe would be hefty. Wife would Kill Me if we did not have a toilet lol.

You are totally right that plumbers are too busy... I have tried a few people, but next month is the soonest they could visit (if they visit at all) is next month. I would be glad to delegate this job to professionals - It is stressing me out... Feels a bit too advanced for me :/

If I’m thinking correctly, by the time you’ve studded the wall out, and the frame is in, the you might not need it back to the wall (think it would prove difficult anyway) and just cut the branch back and use a 45 or less bend?

The wall will not be studded. The only studded part will be for moving the hanging toilet frame away from the wall to compensate for the floor part over the joist.

I like the idea of cutting the cast iron branch back. Can you give me some more detail on how to do this? Where about should I cut it? What parts to use? Are there any drawbacks of this method?

----------------------

I hope that this makes sense - sorry, I am not a professional, so my description could be confusing.
 
Last edited:

MOSSEP

Plumber
Messages
544
You could use one of these and then convert to plastic. Maybe not ideal, and Im not sure how close to the joist you will get but it should work.


Be carefull cutting the cast iron. You'll need a big grinder to get through resulting in showers of sparks, or a strong arm and a hacksaw.

Get one of these in a small grinder once done so you can debur all the rough edges, or use a hand file.

 

king of pipes

Esteemed
Plumber
Gas Engineer
Messages
5,594
I would not want to tackle that one you risk a leak occuring on the cast cutting it would be a nightmare as untrained said stud the wall out and work with what you have is my advice as below in
 

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kazua2000

Messages
7
You could use one of these and then convert to plastic. Maybe not ideal, and Im not sure how close to the joist you will get but it should work.


Be carefull cutting the cast iron. You'll need a big grinder to get through resulting in showers of sparks, or a strong arm and a hacksaw.

Get one of these in a small grinder once done so you can debur all the rough edges, or use a hand file.



That makes sense - thanks a lot. Do I need to use silicon or glue on the drain connector and cast iron? I guess the corrugated part of the connector goes inside the cast iron pipe.

I feel that the grinder would be easier to use. I have a kitchen fire blanked; maybe that could deal with the sparks.

I still need to figure out where to cut the cast iron and what parts to use to shift the pipe back after the connector. I also need to figure out how to reconnect our old toilet temporally.

I need to be sure that I do it right, or we will finish without a toilet!
 

kazua2000

Messages
7
I would not want to tackle that one you risk a leak occuring on the cast cutting it would be a nightmare as untrained said stud the wall out and work with what you have is my advice as below in

The bathroom is tiny. I prefer to stud the wall out, but every centimetre counts. Worst comes worst, I will install one of those victorian toilets that have a cistern connected via a pipe.

Btw. Your toilet installation looks fab.
 

kazua2000

Messages
7
I found an older post with some info on how to cut cast iron:
Cutting and Fitting to cast iron soil pipe - https://www.plumbersforums.net/threads/13150

-watch out for the sparks as well they can easily burn things.

- larger size grinder is probably best, one that can cut right through the pipe without having to move your position

- keep your balance the thin cutting blades can sometimes shatter if you move to much

- goggles and gloves and so on.

- take an old magnet with you for getting all the small iron filings up if you can't sweep or Hoover them up.

I still don't know if I need to use any sealant to join the plastic to cast iron and where is the best place to cut it, but I guess I will figure this out when I have the parts and plan the layout.

---------------------------------------------

Here is my shopping list. I will get both 90 and 135 degree bends just to check which one is more suitable. I already have a small angle grinder.

McAlpine Push-Fit Single Socket Drain Connector Black 110mm - https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-push-fit-single-socket-drain-connector-black-110mm/4255v



FloPlast SP103 90° Connector White - https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-sp103-90-connector-white/15330



FloPlast Push-Fit/Solvent Weld Single Socket Pipe Coupler Black 110mm - https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-push-fit-solvent-weld-single-socket-pipe-coupler-black-110mm/62966



FloPlast Push-Fit 92.5° Single Socket Bend Black 110mm - https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-push-fit-92-5-single-socket-bend-black-110mm/70115



Mac Allister MSAG2000 2000W 9 - https://www.screwfix.com/p/mac-allister-msag2000-2000w-9-electric-angle-grinder-220-240v/522gf



Metal Metal Cutting Disc 9 - https://www.screwfix.com/p/metal-metal-cutting-disc-9-230mm-x-2-x-22-2mm-5-pack/4588v




I hope that all makes sense :/
 

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