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Discuss Mixer tap re-seating tool in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Hello. This is my first post. I hope someone can help me. My kitchen tap recently started dripping from the spout and the spout is also a bit loose. I removed the spout revealing 2 washers that I changed. I re-assembled the spout but the problem persists. I guess my next option is to re-seat the spout. I have seen tools online for this job but they all seem to have to screw in before grinding. My spout has no thread, it just pushes in. Will these tools be of any use to me please. Much appreciated. Alison
 
Reseating tools act on the hot and cold inlets grinding them back flat where they’ve pitted and channelled over time they’re not for the spout. When you say dripping from the spout do you mean where water is supposed to come from or it’s found another way out?? Depending on the age and cost of the tap a new one is probably easier. Any pics??
 
It'll be the 2 O rings on the spout and it'll be leaking when either tap is turned on.

If it's still leaking with the new O rings and they are the correct ones, the tap is scrap.
 
It'll be the 2 O rings on the spout and it'll be leaking when either tap is turned on.

If it's still leaking with the new O rings and they are the correct ones, the tap is scrap.

Personally I'd be investigating a little more before scapping possibly needlessly. Please post some pictures cos it could save you a fair few pounds.
 
Thanks for help. Here are some pics.

20181129_102431.jpg


20181129_102422.jpg


20181129_102216.jpg
 
Those o-rings are the wrong ones. They will never fit into the body.
They are also shocking quality.
Do you know anyone with a metric vernier caliper?
 
Hello. Thanks again. I bought the o-rings from b&q and were the same size as the originals. What do you suggest? I have not got access to a digital caliper.
 
They are not the same Alison.
Do you still have the packaging? I need to know their size then I can advise.
 
I'm waiting with baited breath to find out where YorkshireDave gets his O rings from and how he sizes them. O rings are something I have always struggled to find proper replacements for.
 
I/D, O/D & thickness
Knowing the correct compound is paramount though.
 
I/D, O/D & thickness
Knowing the correct compound is paramount though.
Know a good supplier? Surely if you know the ID and OD, then the thickness is the difference divided by 2?
Compound differences affects the softness or hardness, I assume? (As well as longevity).

EDIT: I now see my method above would result in a piston fit, not an interference fit and would therefore leak.

EDIT2: just remembered that what I had meant was that if you know the ID and OD of an O ring then the above calculation would give its section. But this is no help in finding the right O ring for an application, and very hard to measure accurately.
 
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ID & section. These need to be epdm.
Measure the dia of what it fits into SECTION 1
Measure the dia of what it fits round ID
Measure the width of the slot it sits in SECTION 2
Use Section measurement to determine section.
If ID is 7mm and Sect1 10mm & Sect2 is 2.1mm the Section dia would be 1.8mm
For this application shore60 or70 is fine.

I can see from the image there is nowhere for the squashed rubber to go in the groove.
Alison was there a thinner smaller oring in the kit? I often stretch a thinner one into position and it works just fine so long as its lubricated. The ring MUST NOT fill the groove
 
No.
Ultimately one is constrained by the groove.
The compression of the o-ring 10-20% max must be accommodated (with a bit to spare) within the groove tsking into acvount swelling from temp rises etc.
You then look to see which std sizes fit or which you can stretch to make fit.
Thats all why Id like the detail as I can send alison to get her own and they work.
 
No.
Ultimately one is constrained by the groove.
The compression of the o-ring 10-20% max must be accommodated (with a bit to spare) within the groove tsking into acvount swelling from temp rises etc.
So you knew 1.5mm section would be a piston fit and that any more than this would be squashed to make a seal. From experience, you thought having a section 0.3mm greater in diameter would be about right (and 0.3 squashing is actually about 15% of the 1.8). The slight gap around the radial axis allows the squashed material somewhere to go. I think?

EDIT (Just used an online O ring calculator and got 1.8mm. Is this how you knew?)
 
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Gen didnt know they existed. Would haved saved me hours!
Those were worked out for an early vers of our cartridge ;)
 
Some taps don't use O rings, but use rubber seals of square section. Unless you know the make and model of tap these are almost impossible to find.
 

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