Kitchen tap pipe leak - help needed

[alecl1993]

a leak has developed from a pipe connector under the kitchen sink - I suspect that the seal has gone as the screw seal neither tightens or loosens.

Is anyone able to view the photo and help me ascertain whether this is something simple to sort (undo both nuts and replace the connector - if so, what is this connector called) or whether I should call back a plumber (just had a leak in the bathroom sorted).

Ideally I would like to sort myself.

Thank you, Alec

 

[Harvest Fields]

If it is from the slotted isolation valve. (In the centre) a new will will need to be fitted. Can I recommend a full bore is fitted in its place mate.

 

[Welder]

The O-ring behind the slot has been torn. This is all that stops one of these leaking.

If you are staying in the place (2 yrs plus) I would strongly suggest putting a 'full bore' isolating valve in in this ones place because they are much more robust, much more reliable.

When you need it to work it then will. Its is however a little more than a simply DIY as the old olives must be removed.

HTH

 

[Harvest Fields]

Beat you to it mate.

 

[Welder]

Game on

 

[Welder]

"Can I recommend a full bore is fitted in its place mate."

Is that like, "Can I GET...?" Yes, you can get, but do you want? Bloomin hate the creeping Americanisation (note the S) of our wonderful language.

 

[Vicdiy]

The O-ring behind the slot has been torn. This is all that stops one of these leaking.

If you are staying in the place (2 yrs plus) I would strongly suggest putting a 'full bore' isolating valve in in this ones place because they are much more robust, much more reliable.

When you need it to work it then will. Its is however a little more than a simply DIY as the old olives must be removed.

HTH

Couldn't you leave the old olives and give them a few turns of Pte tape. I know it's not perfect but often the olives are pushed into the copper pipe so you can't really get them off.

 

[Harvest Fields]

Couldn't you leave the old olives and give them a few turns of Pte tape. I know it's not perfect but often the olives are pushed into the copper pipe so you can't really get them off.

Olive puller or gently hacksaw. However the full bore iso will be a little longer anyway.

 

[Welder]

Couldn't you leave the old olives and give them a few turns of Pte tape. I know it's not perfect but often the olives are pushed into the copper pipe so you can't really get them off.

You asked for advice from professionals and you have received honest, quality advice from professionals.

What you now choose to do is up to you. We do not advocate bodges.


You can do whatever you choose to do.

 

[townfanjon]

Couldn't you leave the old olives and give them a few turns of Pte tape. I know it's not perfect but often the olives are pushed into the copper pipe so you can't really get them off.

For a diy repair without causing any dramas , you will be better down this road . To cut the pipe to fit a full bore iso without the right gear could turn into a nightmare.

 

[alecl1993]

Thank you all for your help - extremely informative.

I suspect my two choices now are:

1. Get a plumber in at the weekend to sort new full bore isolating valve.

2. Have a go myself - the downside being it could be more or a headache than it’s worth but ultimately buying a full bore iso, 2x olives and fitting.

The question is, if the old olives don’t come out easily and then I need to acquire an olive pulley that could be an issue. Will I need to cut down the pipe to fit a full bore isolating valve or should it just fit in the place as the old iso?

Just trying to weigh up my options, obviously I would ideally like to sort it this evening rather than at the weekend and havibg to then keep isolating the water to the flat.

Many thanks, Alec

 

[Harvest Fields]

Don’t get a plumber on the weekend for that mate. That’s a during the week job.

 

[steadyon]

Consider a compromise - get a good quality replacement, not full bore, such as the Pegler (Screwfix 18796) which should be the same length (but not guaranteed, see below). Don't forget you'll need:
1. To isolate the water supply, or you'll get very wet!
2. Enough movement in the pipework to get the old valve out and the new one in.
3. Some PTFE tape (Screwfix 63859).
4. Probably, to clean the old olives, some wire wool / pan cleaner (the nylon type).
5. As a back up (in case the screw threads are different or the length doesn't match) a direct replacement isolating valve. (Screwfix 65251).
To use the PTFE tape wrap it around the olives (not the threads of the valve) in the same direction as each nut tightens. Probably around 5 or 6 wraps.

 

[alecl1993]

Just to give you all an update (I wouldn’t deprive you of what I ended up doing and whether it worked)!

I decided to give it a go (the worse case being I have a go and then have to call a plumber).

Bought a new isolating valve which came with olives - PTFE’d around the olives as per Steadyon’s advice and installed - it worked a charm. Bone dry (for now).

Thank you all for your help, you all contributed to helping me sort it myself and I’ll be toasting you with a beer tomorrow!

Alec

 

[Harvest Fields]

Well done mate. But still should be full bore.

 

[Vicdiy]

Just to give you all an update (I wouldn’t deprive you of what I ended up doing and whether it worked)!

I decided to give it a go (the worse case being I have a go and then have to call a plumber).

Bought a new isolating valve which came with olives - PTFE’d around the olives as per Steadyon’s advice and installed - it worked a charm. Bone dry (for now).

Thank you all for your help, you all contributed to helping me sort it myself and I’ll be toasting you with a beer tomorrow!

Alec

View attachment 34840

Well done, just as a matter of interest, you say that the new valve came with olives ( as they all do ) but I'm assuming you didn't manage to get the old ones off and re-used the olives and compression nuts, is that correct