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Discuss Internal fuse keeps blowing when i connect HW zone i to my wiring centre! in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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I have wired an s plan plus system. Consists of 2 hot water 2 port valves and one central heating 2 port valve. The boiler is a worcester bosch cd classic.

Problem began when i turned the boiler on first time and nothing happened! Found that the internal 2.5A slow blow fuse had blown. Disconected the Ls and Lr terminals to my wiring centre and replaced the link between them.

After this boiler turned on and fuse was fine with 230V coming out of the Ls. So i isolated the fused spur and wired the room stat and the heating valve and turned boiler back on. Everything was ok.Room stat working and valve operating.So i knew that wasnt the problem. Isolated supply again and connected one heating valve and programmer i to my wiring centr and turned power on.

Boiler didnt react. Internal fuse blown again. Ive only extended the motorized valve cable about 2 meters to my wiring centre so cant see that there will be a short on the extended cable.The 4 core flex i used had blue..green and yellow..brown..grey and black i connected all cables to match exept the orange from the motor went with black from my 4 core flex.

Any ideas please. I only have so many fuses and patience
 
need a 5 core for zone valves

only thing i can suggest is to get a heating engy out as your not allowed to remove the cover of the boiler
 
sorry i meant 5 core they had to be extended because the valves were not close together or close to where my wiring centre was going to be in the cupboard.
 
You must be GSR to access behind the casing of your boiler.

Have you wired the zone valves for 240v or low volt across the micro switch?

Sounds like you are calling for heat with a 240v signal across a low voltage jumper. If so you are lucky that the fuse is acting before the pcb is damaged

The fuse on the pcb is to protect the board against a fault in the 240v circuit, not to protect against 240v being sent into a low or no volts input
 
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Yeah i have a multimeter. I think i have mixed up between my 2 tank stat cables and valve cables. I had to extend the valve cables a few meters in flexi conduit come up a wall and through to the back of my wiring centre.
I did mark my cables but only with T1...T2 for tank valve 1/ tank valve 2 and S1 and S2 for both tank stats. I must have got them mixed up. (the boiler is in a dissused area which has no lights so been using a crap LED workligh)I am going to bell out all the cables from scratch tomorrow.

Zone valves are wired 240v accross micro switch. Boiler isnt giving me volt free contacts. Its giving me a Live supply and Looking for a switched live. The central heating valve and thermostat are working fine. The minute i connect a hot water valve with a tank stat it blows the internal fuse again.

As I said im going back tomorrow night to check for continuity and identify all my cables again.
 
thats because the boiler isnt volt free
 
John

LS LR on your boiler pcb is a low volt / no volt jumper connection. You actually pointed that out in the second paragraph of your initial posting.

Control valve micro switches should be wired low volt / no volt too.
 
As I said im going back tomorrow night to check for continuity and identify all my cables again.

Interesting comment ........ I had read this as it was your own home, but are you doing this for a paying customer?

Are you a spark or GSR?
 
Just because he says Ls is low voltage doesn’t mean it is. As you are talking about LS and LR and clearly don’t know what you are talking about he needs to get a GSR in to remove the boiler cover and correct the wiring which is clearly wrong by the sounds of it.
 
Im a spark doing it for my uncle. Its a void guest house. Ls from boiler is 240v..and Lr is a 240v switched live. Im going to sort it tonight. Ill let you know what the f**ck up was. Thought id have a bit more sense from the forum. But it was obviously a bad idea coming here to be pointed in the right direction.
I have posted the best sense that I can give you above. Put the case back on the boiler and get a GSR out. Either your wiring is wrong or the boiler is at fault. Either way get a pro out.

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