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Hi

I have an old inspection trap which is fed both from my bathroom and outside surface drainage which then enters an old brick inspection chamber. The inspection chamber is then also fed from from both mine and my neighbours toilet foul. The inspection chamber cover is severely rusted because this was concreted over. I have a couple of questions here:

1) am I ok to remove the cover with an angle grinder as there appears to be no other option? No lift points and severely rusted as this was concreted over

2) should the brick inspection chamber be replaced?

3) if the brick inspection chamber isn’t removed I would replace the trap with a single pipe in to the inspection chamber. I presume there is no issue with this is I use a sleeve and seal it?

Any advice would be appreciated
 
If the inspection chamber serves more than 1 property then ownership and repairs to it, is the local water company's responsibility.
They took ownership in 2011 regardless of the condition of chambers and drains.

You cannot carry out any work within or additions to the chamber without approval from the water company.

Any drains before the chamber serving only 1 property are the responsibility of that property.

Ring your local water company and explain the situation with the Inspection chamber.
 
Hi Snowhead

Thanks for the reply. Just to be clear I live in Scotland and it’s one property converted to 2 flats. I presume it’s still the local water authorities problem?
 
Hi Snowhead

I have just called Scottish Water and the transfer of private sewers regs only apply to England & Wales. I have been told that anything that sits within our boundary is our responsibility to repair so my original question still applies.

Thanks
 
I assume by Inspection trap you mean a Gulley something like this,
http://i65.tinypic.com/244r23a.jpg

Re Cutting up the cover then.

Yes, if there's no way of lifting the cover, you'll need something temporary to cover the hole till a new cover is fitted.

There's nothing wrong with a brick chamber if it's in good condition or can be repaired.
 
Hi Snowhead

No I mean a Buchan Trap. I intend on replacing this with modern plastic connectors etc with a single pipe feeding the inspection chamber via a sleeve so I can seal it properly. The chamber is backing out foul waste through the trap via a seal leak so I need to get in to the chamber to clear the blockage then replace any damaged pipe with modern alternatives rather than clay.

Just wanted to make sure my solution was correct.

Thanks for your responses

88E0B8F2-546A-489E-AEA3-9BFF988BFDBA.png
 
Give the whole thing plenty with a big hammer, the cover will deflect and vibrate the concrete etc on the top. It will probably come free by then, if not plenty of hydraulic fluid or chainsaw oil all round the rim once concrete has been swept away.....
leave a day and as above and a decent flat head screwdriver. Once off repaint the lot with thick black gloss.. good as new
Rob Foster aka centralheatking
 
Give the whole thing plenty with a big hammer, the cover will deflect and vibrate the concrete etc on the top. It will probably come free by then, if not plenty of hydraulic fluid or chainsaw oil all round the rim once concrete has been swept away...
leave a day and as above and a decent flat head screwdriver. Once off repaint the lot with thick black gloss.. good as new
Rob Foster aka centralheatking
 
If your cover looks like this one, then should be able to break the sand/cement mix out as Rob suggested, this should then able you to remove the whole cover as they’re usually just placed on and cemented in.

upload_2019-6-30_11-45-8.jpeg
 
Tried getting in between the cover and the rim but it’s not working. I can try more brute force but don’t want to damage any of the brickwork on the chamber
 
So, circled red is your lifting point (manhole lifting key should fit) however it’s seized. Where I’ve highlighted in yellow, if you have a crowbar then try getting in there, it should give without damage to bricks.

FE0932ED-EFEC-4B8C-8568-F65FC0341810.jpeg
 
Paul, I possibly wouldn’t try lifting that, not without soaking in some wd-40 or something similar first. Try a flat screwdriver and score all the way around the rusted bit, and maybe even try gentle hammering to break rust. If this doesn’t work it might be worth (if you’re replacing) to try and break the top out.
 
Paul, I possibly wouldn’t try lifting that, not without soaking in some wd-40 or something similar first. Try a flat screwdriver and score all the way around the rusted bit, and maybe even try gentle hammering to break rust. If this doesn’t work it might be worth (if you’re replacing) to try and break the top out.
 
Hi CBW

Already done all of the above, finished 5 mins ago. I will be replacing the lid so if it doesn’t budge I’ll break the top out. Thanks again CBW
 
The cast iron is usually pretty good quality, you should get it out with a bit of persistence (and swearing usually) !
I'd avoid smashing it if poss as the bits fall in the hole and can cause issues.
 
As before , just keep bashing it
insert a broad flat head screwdiver , dont use wd 40 its expensive , it will yield in the end ....usually story in my life
DO NOT GIVE up until you win
then have a beer or 2
Rob Foster aka centralheatking
lets us all know when you have won
 
Just one more thing here Rob. There seems to be a fair thickness of some sort of bitumen cover holding the lid firmly in place which is stopping the cover releasing. Any recommendations?
 
Just one more thing here Rob. There seems to be a fair thickness of some sort of bitumen cover holding the lid firmly in place which is stopping the cover releasing. Any recommendations?
put a small volume of 95 Ron petrol..on it ...light a match chuck it and run away ..it you leave a straight petrol path from it then light the far end...do not use 97 or 99 Ron that is looney juice which I use in one if my cars when I want some fun
its easy ..see you at the other side
centralheatking
 

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