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I'm a DIY homeowner repacing an outside toilet pan to a salt glazed spigot in a concrete floor. My guess is to cut through the mortar surrounding the spigot and continue cutting through the spigot. What are the pitfalls and tips to assure a clean cut through the spigot. Further will a plastic pan connector properly fit the ID of salt glazed pipe after the spigot is removed, and what is the penetration depth of the glazed enamel pan connector into the spigot. My concern is having a connector offcut remaining within if a portion of the spigot remains flush at the concrete floor level.

Regards, emellish
Toilet.JPG
 
The spigot of existing pan finishers slightly above finished floor.
I would get rid of existing pan then take a angle grinder with a diamond blade and cut off the drain at finished floor level. Should then be able to get a new pan connector to fit int drain.
Don't forget P P E when taking out pan and cutting drain
 
The spigot of existing pan finishers slightly above finished floor.
I would get rid of existing pan then take a angle grinder with a diamond blade and cut off the drain at finished floor level. Should then be able to get a new pan connector to fit int drain.
Don't forget P P E when taking out pan and cutting drain
 
Cheers for that advice. I plan to quarry tile over the concrete floor which will recess the pan connector.
My main concern is will the connectors seal, which is designed to fit the metric ID of plastic pipe, be able to seal properly to the ID of an old salt glazed pipe.
 
Pan connectors are made to accommodate the different sizes in fact it will be tighter into salt glazed than modern plastic.
Bead of silicone sealant on to leading edge of pan connector job done.
 

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