how much would I expect to pay for boiler replacement?

[cable_guy]

hi all,

i'm new here and am posting as I'm in need of a replacement boiler and find the world of plumbing daunting as I have no knowledge of it whatsoever.

I have a small 2 bedroom semi with 6 rads, bath, electric shower and a bosted clog Ravenheat Combi boiler under my stairs, I believe a straight swap to be possible on the wall for a new condensing boiler.

I have heard a variety of prices, but am converging on about £300 labour for 2 days work to replace my boiler with all the rigmarole that goes with it, plus the cost of the boiler itsself.

I'm not after the mutt's nutts in boilers as i'm planning to move in the next 12 months, but am simply too cold at present and wasting too much on my monthly gas bill. ( I can't even set it to come on and turn off at certain times! )

I must add that at present 2 of my rads have stopped working, I believe this to be either 1) sludge or 2) stuck thermostatic radiator valves.

What would you see as reasonable price for this operation please?

 

[ratrace]

£300 for a combi swap is cheap.

 

[Dannypipe]

If your present boiler is working, then don't book in a replacment right now, as you'll pay through the nose. I now have 3 boiler changes booked up. The person who is paying the least is the lady who can wait as her boiler is still chugging along.

As for labour, I don't work for £150 a day so that's your theory out the window there. However if you want it done properly, the system will need to be flushed, if your system is badly sludged as you suggest then it will need a power flush. Then possibly some rads will require thermostatic valves fitted. Then the new boiler will be condensing and will need a condensate run. Finally your new boiler may need a larger gas supply. Which means uprating the pipework supply from the meter.

Once you've done all this, you can install the new boiler. However if you have no way to turn your boiler off you will then require an interlock - i.e controls to be wired.

So to think you will get this done for under £2000 is optimistic. But then I do things properly, if you can find someone who will cut corners, you will pay less. Be warned though, you get what you pay for.

 

[so-solar]

well said danny

 

[cable_guy]

thanks for that Danny, I appreciate your response and understand that you recommend the job would be done properly with a power flush etc, although I am trying to cut corners to an extent.

If I was to live in this house for another 3 years+ I would save more money and get the job done properly with a top brand boiler. however I'm not very well off, all I want is for all my 2 bust radiators to start working and to cut some money off my gas bill, some extra features would be nice like timing it to come on and go off at certain times but that's not essential. At present I keep it on full whack during the day so the pipes don't freeze

 

[northstar]

What are do you live in ? get some local guys in and get some quotes to either repair what you have or a new install.

 

[cable_guy]

What are do you live in ? get some local guys in and get some quotes to either repair what you have or a new install.

Staffordshire

 

[tamz]

It is not just a straight swap. There is a bit more to it than that and you won't get it done for £300, try doubling that at least.

There is always some halfwit who will fit it as a straight swap with nothing more but don't expect your new boiler to last too long.

You do in the main, get what you pay for

 

[everflow09]

I WOULD SAY AT THE VERY LEAST £900 WITH POWERFLUSH AND RPLACING trv'S

 

[cable_guy]

thanks guys, does the £900 include the cost of the boiler you mention everflow? or do you mean £900 for the labour including powerflush?

cheers.

 

[PlumbBobBob]

that would be just for labour.powerflush and trvs extra .

 

[cable_guy]

would it be completely necessary to have a power flush done? Or could you use that cleaning fluid stuff? I have thermostatic valves on all radiators except 1 so would that knock the cost down?

I'm struggling to see why these ones I've had quotes from are able to charge so cheap if I need all the things you mention.

 

[tamz]

A basic boiler swap will cost a minimum of £500 for labour and materials (excluding boiler) from any reputable installer and even that is cheap. This will not necessarily include a powerflush but should include as a minimum, a chemical flush. Most will need an upgrade to the gas pipe, a condensate drain (you say the boiler is under the stairs so probably no easy route for that), new electrics, earth bonding, flue re-cut at an angle to suit new boiler etc etc..and a guarantee it is fitted and commisioned correctly. As you said a couple of your rads have stopped working this may indicate you will indeed need a powerflush which will be another £2-300

No doubt you can get someone to just throw it on the wall and existing stuff doing the bare minimum to get it working, checking and upgrading nothing, for £300. There are a lot of unregistered, even unqualified guys going around scraping for a days wages. But, if or when it goes t..ts up you can be sure you won't see them again and will be left to your own devices. Cheap is cheap for a reason. They are missing something out. Ask what exactly you are getting for your money.
Whoever you get make sure you have an address and landline number (you will be able to find them again then) and make sure they are Gas Safe registered and check their details here.

Gas Safe Register | Ensure your gas engineer is registered with Gas Safe Register

The amount of badly and unsafe fitted boilers around is unbelievable but it keeps me in a job at the customers expense.
This is a big investment that you need to work every day without failing. A badly fitted boiler will give untold amounts of problems and future costs. Cheap boilers mean expensive parts so don't buy a Ravenheap, Visio or whatever other c..p bandq are selling. For a good cheapish boiler think about a Main (Baxi).

 

[cable_guy]

thanks Tamz that's helpful. The quote I had for £300 from a guy who is listed on the Gas Safe site which you linked.

I am trying to ascertain what exactly a more expensive fit will buy me, and I know you're doing your best to not talk down or dumb down your trade but that is exactly what I need to know. So far I can assume a more expensive fit will get me:

- a power flush instead of a chemical flush
- new electrics, (could you tell me what new electrics I'll need please? I have a brand new consumer unit fitted about 2 months ago)
- earth bonding, (wouldn't this be done whoever does the job?)
- flue re-cut at an angle to suit new boiler (how much work is that please?)

as for a guarantee it is fitted and commisioned correctly, surely the fact the trader is Gas Safe registered means I'd get that? Or doesn't it?

Please bear in mind I am not going to be in the house for more than 18 months more. If I was going to be in there for longer I would certainly pay a more expensive fitter, however if anyone else like me is reading and is in the latter situation, this could perhaps put their mind at rest as to what the extra expense covers.

I am not trying to be awkward in my questions I am genuinally interested in the answers.

 

[tamz]

A more expensive quote may not include a powerflush. Whether or not this may be needed is something the installer should check at the time of his visit to do the quote. It will however as a minimum, regardless of the water quality need chemical flushing and inhibiting. Make sure this is done correctly.

Gas pipe upgrades are usually required as around 6 in 10 older boilers have undersized pipework. For a combi it will need a minimum of 22mm from the meter to within 1m of the boiler.

New electrics are as related to the boiler. Timer, room thermostat, spur switch etc. If you already have these fitted you can use the existing if you like. If not they need upgrading.

Earth bonding of the gas and water pipes is necessary but not always done. The installer only has an obligation to inform you it needs doing if it is not present.

Std efficiency boilers had the flue fitted level or with a slight downward slope. Condensing boilers need the flue to rise 3 - 5° away from the boiler to allow condensate to drain back. This usually means re-coring the hole to suit.

The condensate drain should ideally be run internally but if external should be in 32mm min and connect to a drain or soakaway. (not just dropped to the ground)

Unfortunately being Gas Safe registered does not guarantee it will be fitted and commisioned correctly. There are a lot of chancers around and just some who don't know their rse from their elbow.
The guy who has given you a quote of £300 may be perfectly capable and may do a good job. There are a lot of decent tradesmen sitting idle and £300 is better than nothing. If you don't know the installer ask for references. He should have no problem giving you a couple of previous customers numbers.

As said before ask him what exactly the work will involve. I have given you the main points to check for. The choice is yours.

 

[Blake]

Can I have the installers name cos I'm thinking of having a new boiler. I am a gas engineer myself but if he can swap it for me for £300 I'll go out to work and earn twice that fitting someone else a new boiler.

 

[vanessa.raine]

Overpayment
To whom it may concern,

I accidently cracked my basin in my flat and made contact with my agent to let them know.
i asked if the insurance covered this and was told no.

She said she would let me know the pricing, she never did. the next thing the plumber comes into the flat and repairs it.

I then receive a bill of £450. I was told the agent paid it directly and i was to reimburse them not the plumber.

I was shocked that a small job of replacing a sink which normally costs around £70 could take so long and cost so much.

After much upset and rudeness form my agency for the flat I have had to pay it but feel absolutely robbed.

Should I be? Is this overpayment?

regards

Vanessa

 

[tamz]

You could have argued the point that you should have been informed of the estimated cost before the work took place. It was after all you who was footing the bill. Bit late now though. You live and learn.

 

[vanessa.raine]

you are right and I did ask her expressing my concerns at the price , when she didnt answer i thought she may have been able ot get it at a good price.

 

[tamz]

Another lesson. Never trust an agent. You'll know better next time

 

[BLOD]

£450 to replace a basin - wow !

 

[Avatar]

Maybe the agent should pay the excess - unless you authirised them to get work done without checking first with you!

£50-£70 for a standard style basin and about 3-4 hours to fit easy (£150-200) plus maybe another £30 for new taps and fittings . . .

Approx price = about £300 squid maximum!!!

Having said that there is always a worse case senario: £120 for fancy pedestal-less basin, another 2-3 hour labour on top for the worst possible working conditions ect . . .

Having said that my base price for fitting a bathroom suite is £600 labour (although there is ALWAYS extra items of work to consider, and push the price up!)