How far can my washing machine be from the vent?

[cravenpipes]

Hello,

*Disclaimer: Please forgive the messy photos. Our small storage/laundry room is a never-ending clean/mess zone

I am attempting to move my washing machine so that we can actually have some space in our small laundry/storage room, but I am unsure if this is possible due to code/physics.

The photos attached show what I am going for. Again, disregard the mess please

So the plan is to buy a small 110w dryer instead of having the big one that is in picture three (corner.jpg). Install that ontop of our current washer and build some built in shelving so we can be a bit more organized.

I want to move the washer in picture two (wall.jpg) to the corner where the current dryer is. So the standpipe will be 10 ft from where the new washer location will hopefully be.

My initial idea is to remove the current standpipe and replace it next to where the new washer will go. Then have a long pipe running down the wall to feed into the current drain/vent pipe (pardon if the lingo is incorrect). Would that work? Or is the washer too far from the drain/vent?

If it is a legit design, what rate of drop (don't know if that is the correct lingo) do I need from point A (the p-trap I believe) to the vent/drainage pipe? I have read it depends on the width of the pipe.

Thank you for all your help and I look forward to seeing if I am anywhere close with my design/assumptions.

Oh, and I live in Oregon so that would be the code I have to match, but I have no clue how to read plumbing code. Y'all have some different verbiage

 

[gpbeck]

Not sure what type of dryer you are considering, but a good choice would be a drying rack/rails plus a dehumidifier (dessicant type) in that small room with the door closed. Energy efficient, warms the room and collects distilled water for disposal or a steam iron. This is preferable to releasing water vapour into the house.

 

[cravenpipes]

Not sure what type of dryer you are considering, but a good choice would be a drying rack/rails plus a dehumidifier (dessicant type) in that small room with the door closed. Energy efficient, warms the room and collects distilled water for disposal or a steam iron. This is preferable to releasing water vapour into the house.

Yeah, I have been suggesting a drying rack for years, but my partner is adamant that we need a dryer. She doesn't like how clothes on a rack come out a bit stiff. This is how I did it when I lived in Korea, with a dehumidifier, and the time difference was negligible for drying times.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

That’s fine as for fall make sure it’s on the edge of the bubble eg 1/4 per foot

 

[cravenpipes]

That’s fine as for fall make sure it’s on the edge of the bubble eg 1/4 per foot

Thanks! I really appreciate it!

 

[Chuck]

Yeah, I have been suggesting a drying rack for years, but my partner is adamant that we need a dryer. She doesn't like how clothes on a rack come out a bit stiff.

I always say you shouldn't marry someone unless you agree about (a) money, (b) kids, and (c) the thermostat setting. Apparently, I need to add a (d).

 

[cravenpipes]

That’s fine as for fall make sure it’s on the edge of the bubble eg 1/4 per foot

Sorry, but I do have a couple more questions.

1. The attached photo represents main question, which is does the P-trap go next to the vent/drain pipe or at the end of the standpipe? I think my poor drawing should show what I mean.
2. What diameter pipe should I be using? I have read 2" is the standard, is that correct?
3. Since the long 10' pipe will be running along the wall, I will need to put an elbow in when it hits the opposite corner so that it can turn to meet the vent/drain. Will this pose an issue or just keep with the 1/4" fall?
4. Lastly, what elbow would you suggest to initiate that fall? I have seen there are various degrees of elbows and since this will be roughly 10', I will be dropping it a total of 2.5 inches for the whole run. What angle off the standpipe o p-trap would your run with depending on which design I need to go with.

Sorry for all the questions, but I enjoy the process of learning this stuff and have no plumber connects.

 

[JCplumb]

1. P trap on the right under the standpipe.
2. 1 1/2'' pipe is fine up to 3m, so a 10' run will need 2 inch pipe.
3. Not sure what you mean, if you need an elbow, use one. If your new pipe run is going under the window then round the corner into the old boss, yes, you'll need an elbow there. If the current pipe with the boss has pushfit fittings top and bottom you should be able to turn it to angle the spigot so that it is parallel with the wall.
4. In my experience - all 90/92.5 etc. elbows allow regulation drop so doesn't matter

 

[cravenpipes]

1. P trap on the right under the standpipe.
2. 1 1/2'' pipe is fine up to 3m, so a 10' run will need 2 inch pipe.
3. Not sure what you mean, if you need an elbow, use one. If your new pipe run is going under the window then round the corner into the old boss, yes, you'll need an elbow there. If the current pipe with the boss has pushfit fittings top and bottom you should be able to turn it to angle the spigot so that it is parallel with the wall.
4. In my experience - all 90/92.5 etc. elbows allow regulation drop so doesn't matter

Thank you so much for all of this!