Hive Self Install...nearly (just need a bit of help)

[Hutcho63]

Hi All,

I've got a British Gas/GlowWorm 300+ Boiler hooked up to a BG UP2 Programmer and WR1 Wireless Receiver/T4 Thermostat. In my current setup, almost everything bar the boiler lives in the airing cupboard alongside the HW tank - the T4 thermostat is on the wall in the hall.

I'd read that a Hive self install would be easy as the Hive Receiver is a direct swap with the old UP2 programmer - no rewiring necessary. That bit was easy, and sure enough the old programmer was soon replaced with the Hive receiver and Thermostat and paired with the Hive Hub.

I then removed the WR1 Wireless Receiver and the matching T4 thermostat and this is where things stopped working. All the gubbins in the airing cupboard is wired into a Honeywell junction box that houses cables coming from the UP2, the Hot Water Tank and a couple of valves and a pump. The grey and black wires (terminals 1 and 3) on the WR1 are doubtless what tells the CH and HW to come on, so removing it will require some wires to be switched around so that the Hive Receiver is in charge of this task, but which ones?

Thanks in advance for any useful advice.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Should be a direct swap for the prog but heating wing work but hot water will

To get heating to work you need to remove the stat and move a wire over / make a link wire between the live and switch live

Going to the stat what wires have you got ?

 

[SavageW]

As Shaun said,either link 1-3 on WR1 backplate an leave it there ,or do away with the WR1 receiver an trace the wire from ch on from ups2 backplate to wiring centre an move that to the brown of your ch zone valve
*re read your post again the WR1 is solely for the central heating

 

[Hutcho63]

Thanks Shaun - i've uploaded a close-up of the wiring:

From the WR1 - Earth, Neutral and Live are going into the top of the last three terminal blocks on the right. Grey wire with black sheath from the receiver going into the top of terminal 7, black wire (with blue insulation tape) into terminal 6. Cable from UP2 programmer is second one in from the left at the bottom of pic (black wire into bottom of terminal 7, brown wire into bottom of terminal 5).

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I would say you need to remove the
Wire in where it joins the heating on from the prog with a brown wire to the port valve

In short your combining the wire from the prog (heating on) with the port valve on

In short from the left combine 6 and 7 port wires together

Hope this makes sense

 

[SavageW]

Put the black wire from the up2 into the brown of the ch zone valve,disconnect the live,neutral & earth from the WR1 to the wiring centre an also disconnect the grey wire with black sheath an that should sort it

 

[SavageW]

if It all goes wrong,Shaun replied first

 

[Hutcho63]

Thanks guys - i'll try again this weekend. When I found that I had no heating, everything was put back as it was pronto to avoid a bad case of earache from her indoors

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Thanks guys - i'll try again this weekend. When I found that I had no heating, everything was put back as it was pronto to avoid a bad case of earache from her indoors

Simple way to test

Pop the receiver onto the prog back plate

Hot water should work straight off

To get heating to work turn hive onto heating then on the wr1 receiver press override

Heating should come on if it does you just need to remove and link them two wires we have said together

 

[ShaunCorbs]

if It all goes wrong,Shaun replied first