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So to clarify for my own piece of mind the UFH4 switches 230 from stat to actuators but UFH8 and RF switches 12 to and from stat and to actuators?
If I got it right all the way the UFH8 is switching at 12V on the board but activate the actuators using 240V. It must have been simpler to use 12V as it's done remotely / internally.
 
SJB - despite the similarity in names the controls are very different in the way you can integrate them into a control system.

UFH4 is a simple controller that can be easily adapted to utilise different actuators and thermostat inputs for UFH and a zoned radiator group.

UFH8, is direct wired, with a wider control capability. 1 to 7 of the zones can be used for UFH or a radiator zone through software settings at the thermostat. Zone 8 can only be used as a radiator zone. It is designed for use with Neo Stat and is not user friendly to integrate with other manufacturers stats / timers.

UFH8 - RF is as UFH8 but is only suitable for use with Neo Air stats / timers - unless you are a Geek on understanding protocols.

The issue, as I see it, with the Heatmiser range is that they are excellent for UFH - possibly best in class, but when you want to combine a number of radiator zones in conjunction with UFH zones, the user interface becomes overly complex. Their product range / capability for the control of radiator zones is a long way from best in class.

Teabags preference to convert to a single wifi / app enabled system that the user can understand is a common request.
 
Hi folks,

I just want to update my own thread after 6 months+. I actually did all the work discussed above back in March and got enough time to conclude everything has been working as expected since I changed my system for a Nest controlled one.

When I did in March it was still a solid winter so it gave me the confidence the heating was still working as good as my previous thermostat with all the convenience of the Nest system.

I am attaching a picture of the final wiring with the three Nests on the UH4. I am sure there is room for improvement, on the actual cable management but also on some wiring themselves (like the HW valve only wired on the L on the UH4). Second picture is how it looks once all boxes are closed.

I didn't put any picture of the wiring for each thermostat but it was reasonably simple. I used an LED transformer for each of them in order to get 12V next to my 220V sockets. Last picture attached is the one of a working thermostat!

Anyhow I hope this can help someone else looking for a similar setup. :)
 

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