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Discuss Heatslave 20/25 surge in the Oil and Solid Fuel Forum area at PlumbersForums.net

Not possible to change anything upstream of the tank valve surely with 1200 litres sat there
 
You can replace the strainer/filter at tank no problem but to change the whole valve you would have to wait until oil runs out. I've known some snatch it with a little oil in tank but not 1200 litres, insurance companies could go mad and if you were to lose that amount of oil the environment agency would hold you accountable and that's a hefty clean up fee.
 
Ok just the filter/strainer in the valve bowl, yep that's what I'm doing, wow I could just image releasing a 1200 litre head of kerosene, Christ that would have me in a slight tizz
 
Like I said it's worth finding a decent engineer, a good engineer is for life. You being an electrician means you have got a good grasp of things already however unless you have FGA, pressure gauges and a smoke pump etc then what you can safely and efficiently do is limited
 
Sat having my tea tonight and can hear the oil pump is get more and more distressed, I was thinking to myself any minute now that's going into lock out and it did. So now I've nothing to lose I'm having that filter off to look torch in hand absolutely persisting it down, tank valve closed, cracked it open clean as a whistle I mean spotless fuel in bowl a few grains but nothing serious. Opened the tank valve and flushed the main outlet into a bucket a good litre. Refitted the filter bowl and bled off the air valve opened. Back at boiler closed flex valve and uncoupled from pump, open valve zero flow, popped outside to check the fire valve pressed the reset and it clicked hmmmmmm, back inside no flow, desperation gob around fuel line blow hard release and fuel flows slow but we have fuel, Couple line back up and reset lockout. Open bleed air bolt and she bubbles for 10 secs then pure high pressure fuel. It's been running as sweet as a nut for the past hour. Either fire valve or I was airlocked. All I can taste is kerosene small price to pay, happy days.
 
Fire valves are very easily blocked. You need your entire oil line flushed.
It is best to remove the fire valve to flush the open ends of pipe to give good flow for flushing and to avoid a lot of crud just blocking fire valve.
Oil pumps won’t last long when oil line is nearly blocked
 
You would get air into system any time its opened. You might of dislodged some crap or an airlock, time will tell. If the pump wasn't bled when it and motor were replaced I dred to think what a FGA would say.
 
I think the fuel line is spotless by the looks of things no sludge or even discoloured fuel in the filter, doesn't need replacing. Airlocked I'm not convinced you tend to get flame waffle, I reckon that fire valve was half closed and the pump was sucking like buggery for fuel. Every time it shut down on reaching the high temp stat it had time to refill the flexible hose as it would equalise the (pump created vacuum), then the whole scenario starts again.
 
Again I'm impressed with your knowledge. You are correct, air in pump can cause an unstable flame, it also wont start at all, it depends on how much air is inside, if it's only partly restricting the pump outlet to pressure line it might as you say waffle, if its fully blocking then you wont get anything through.
 
Had my fair share of that when the bulkhead 90 valve leaked for weeks before I sussed out where it was from, horrible design, drilled through bulkhead and fitted an inline hose valve, sorted.
 
How far away is the fire valve? I've come across crushed lines or kinked hoses a few times where burner ignites, runs then flame goes out and then by the time it tries to ignite again enough fuel has come through for ignition. If your burner is coming up to temp and then shutting down through stat then I imagine it's at least a couple metres
 
When I say its shutting down via the stat Im talking about the heating phial as designed, so my bolier water is circulating around the rad circuit trying to reach room stat target, if my circulation water reaches the boiler heater stat target, it will shut down the burner but keep the diverter in heat position. As for the fire valve outside i need to check where its stat phial is parked it may be touching a pipe
 
The phial for your fire valve should be clipped above the burner. Its purpose is to protect the flexi, although if there was a fire hundreds of degrees c will be reached in seconds. And yes if its resting against a hot surface then you will getting nuisance tripping.
 
it should stop 1200 litres of kerosene being added to a runaway fire, anyway thanks for the help just pleased to have it working as designed. A faulty boiler in winter is a bloody nightmare, always learning and just about understand this model inside out.
 
Yes it will prevent 1200 litres from reaching the fire, if the flexi goes you'll still loose some to aid the fire though. I recommend you have it all serviced by a reputable guy/company anyway.
 
Just one more thing I have never really understood is how do you decide what temperature to set the radiator water to on the heating control knob, what is most efficient high temp at rads, or warm enough to do the job, if they run up too high fast do you end up cycling the boiler, currently its in mid position but there are no figures for temp.
 
If it's a standard efficiency boiler then you need to ensure the return temperature is higher than 55 degrees to prevent corrosion in boiler. If not the then back end protection is required, usually by a mixing valve to ensure desired temperatures are matched. If the return temperature is too low then burner gasses can condense inside chamber causing corrosion on boiler
 

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