Have I hired a cowboy?

[Ric2013]

Leak sealers work on minor weeps. How about buy a temporary pipe repair tape? They will hold mains pressure if used carefully.

 

[Sylvergrunge]

Leak sealers work on minor weeps. How about buy a temporary pipe repair tape? They will hold mains pressure if used carefully.

I am hoping the leak sealer will seal up any other issues (we think there may be more leaks in the pipes elsewhere). The issue with a tape is there is no room to go under the pipe as it dips down under the gas pipe and we are worried about piercing the dpm. Also, as it appears to be leaking along the connection as opposed to the pipe (right on the bend too) I am not sure we will get a good bond. I have ordered some ct1 as I have seen it recommended on here. Not sure it will work on this type of leak though, although may work in conjunction with a tape?

 

[gmartine]

Where is that latest set of pics showing the excavation, outside or another room next to bathroom?

The imperial water pipe leaking under the gas pipe is being fed from, what and goes where to exactly?

Distance between two excavation sites?

 

[Sylvergrunge]

Where is that latest set of pics showing the excavation, outside or another room next to bathroom?

The imperial water pipe leaking under the gas pipe is being fed from, what and goes where to exactly?

Distance between two excavation sites?

All pics are in the main bathroom. The last three are a close up of the 28mm pipe going down under the gas pipe.

The imperial pipe leads from the tank (in cupboard to the left about a meter away, that passes under my ensuite shower nextdoor) to the boiler, in the utility at the other side (right) of the bathroom. All pipes are under concrete flooring.

I will upload a pic showing distance (approx 60cm)

 

[Sylvergrunge]

Video showing setup. Excuse the mess!

 

[gmartine]

Can you use a large format for posting pics please, my eyes/glasses are Rubbish.

Post pic of imperial pipe coming from and to and from boiler & tank.

Was the last plumber able to it shut off and wet vac the site or did he apply the putty/epoxy under water? How have you left it with him, is he done?

 

[Ric2013]

I am hoping the leak sealer will seal up any other issues (we think there may be more leaks in the pipes elsewhere). The issue with a tape is there is no room to go under the pipe as it dips down under the gas pipe and we are worried about piercing the dpm. Also, as it appears to be leaking along the connection as opposed to the pipe (right on the bend too) I am not sure we will get a good bond. I have ordered some ct1 as I have seen it recommended on here. Not sure it will work on this type of leak though, although may work in conjunction with a tape?

You can use repair tapes on a faulty soldered joint, if that's what you have. The one I have in my toolbox (in case I mess up!) doesn't stick well at all, but if I get it on and pull it tight, it seals. Then I have to tie it in place with something else, but at least the water is contained. No use if you can't get it round the pipe however. Not sure there's much point using a proprietary leak tape with CT1.

 

[gmartine]

Agreed, don't bother with CT1 or get your money back. I have an idea/method if all else fails but it requires the area being clean and dry.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

28mm and inch copper are close enough where you can solder them using a 28mm coupling no problem

 

[Sylvergrunge]

Can you use a large format for posting pics please, my eyes/glasses are Rubbish.

Post pic of imperial pipe coming from and to and from boiler & tank.

Was the last plumber able to it shut off and wet vac the site or did he apply the putty/epoxy under water? How have you left it with him, is he done?

How do I post large format pics? Using my phone. These are pics of pipe in the tank and going down into the floor from the cupboard.

Plumber did shut off and drain the system but I think the area was wet. Epoxy is coming off Waiting on a call back from him regarding next move.

 

[Chuck]

How do I post large format pics? Using my phone.

I think there is a bug in the latest version of the forum software. For the last few days it's not been possible to click-through to pictures/video from the thumbnails.

@Dan / @Lou – Are you aware of this issue?

 

[Sylvergrunge]

I am tempted to dig down under the pipe and try and get the amalgamating tape round it. Good or bad idea? How far down should the dpm be? Am I likely to hit it?

 

[gmartine]

Forget the amalgamated tape, terrible idea given the access and pipe condtion. If you can dig down beneath it for access and get that epoxy off too, clean up the pipe as best you can.

That leaking pass over section (or pass under in your case) really needs to be replaced, if the plumber wont do it find another and ideally a tradesman that has a press fit device.

 

[Sylvergrunge]

Epoxy off. You can see the leak here. Right on the bend

 

[gmartine]

Looks like that pass under is made up of a number of sections which would've been difficult to solder in situ as well as amateur.

I can't see it, is the leak on internal or external part of bend and is heating on and pipe full and leaking?

See if you can get a small wire brush, scouring pad or emery cloth and clean it up until it looks like copper.

 

[Sylvergrunge]

It is on the internal bend. Heating is off and so is water so the system is slowly emptying.

Trying to phone plumbers but none are able to come out for weeks

 

[gmartine]

Ok don't panick, no further damage is really being done 'cept you're a bit cold.

Ok you need to clean that pipe around the leak abit better than it is cos I'd like you to try a marine/weatherproof epoxy putty otherwise it won't adhere properly. What's your nearest retailer, any plumbers merchants, Screwfix, Halfords etc?

 

[Sylvergrunge]

Screwfix and toolstation are close

 

[gmartine]

Halfords?

Evo-stik Hard & Fast Metal Epoxy Putty | Halfords UK

Shop the latest Evo-stik Hard & Fast Metal Epoxy Putty easy to mix steel reinforced epoxy putty dries in 10 minutes at Halfords UK

www.halfords.com

Never used it, pipe needs to be clean though otherwise it'll come off like the last lot.

 

[gmartine]

If you can wait from Amazon Prime...

PC Marine Epoxy putty or Jenolite Copper repair.

They all say they can repair when wet but it can be difficult to get adhesion so no guarantees. Proper fix is replacement so temp fix only.

 

[Sylvergrunge]

I am pretty sure this is what the last plumber used and it just came off

 

[gmartine]

Probably but then it was stuck on a dirty pipe, hence I keep going on about cleaning it.

 

[Sylvergrunge]

Cleaning it now. How clean does it need ro be?

 

[gmartine]

As clean as pos, looking like copper not undersea treasure.

 

[Sylvergrunge]

Scrubbed most of it off I can't get underneath though.

Plumber called. Hasn't got time to replace the pipe so he has passed details onto another plumber that might! Hopefully plumber number 3 will be able to sort it

 

[Sylvergrunge]

Not heard from plumber number 3 yet, so have ordered Jenolite. Thought I would try amalgamating tape as a short term til Jenolite gets here. It isn't pretty but it has certainly stalled the leak a bit, which is something. At least I might get a full (albeit cold) nights sleep tonight without having to wake up and hoover up water!

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Piece of rubber and a jubilee clip ?

 

[Sylvergrunge]

Piece of rubber and a jubilee clip ?

Looks like it is holding for a minute ( just a tiny puddle under in the past 2 hours, although the heating isn't on so not under pressure. The issue is where the leak is. Right on the internal bend so hard to clip, or do anything to!

 

[Dan]

I think there is a bug in the latest version of the forum software. For the last few days it's not been possible to click-through to pictures/video from the thumbnails.

@Dan / @Lou – Are you aware of this issue?

Try now

 

[Ric2013]

I see. You can't solder because the pipe is in a dip and therefore full of water. You seem to have got it reasonably clean so adhesive now seems possible.

Surely a plumber could take up a further tile to the left of the gas pipe, run a new passover OVER the pipe and, while it will be messy, the urgency will be taken out of the situation. Or bypass the pipework somehow, clip a new section along the wall? Although I am aware the difficulty seems to be finding the plumber.

As for the rubber/jubilee clip idea, I think it might be a good one, but perhaps if you can get some twistable wire that won't snap as soon as you try to twist it, that might be easier than the Jubilee given the poor access. If you do try again with sealant, a clip or wire on top could be a good idea. But if tape is working...

 

[Chuck]

Try now

Works for me now.

Many thanks

 

[Sylvergrunge]

I have the Jenolite and am currently draining the system (typically the leak is at the very lowest point of the entire system so it is taking a while!

In the meantime I thought I would swap out an old valve on an old radiator for a thermostatic one, but it looks like I have ancient ones and they are way smaller than any I can find online. Any suggestions as to what I can do/where I can find small ones?

 

[gmartine]

If I knew you could drain the system and dry out the leaking joint somewhat I would've suggested you use some JB Weld epoxy. Make a small saturated fabric wrap with it and wrap the joint but ideally you have to leave it for 24hrs to cure and ideally has to be dry with no back pressure from any water.

 

[Sylvergrunge]

If I knew you could drain the system and dry out the leaking joint somewhat I would've suggested you use some JB Weld epoxy. Make a small saturated fabric wrap with it and wrap the joint but ideally you have to leave it for 24hrs to cure and ideally has to be dry with no back pressure from any water.

I didn't know I could until today lol. Good old YouTube!

 

[Ric2013]

In the meantime I thought I would swap out an old valve on an old radiator for a thermostatic one, but it looks like I have ancient ones and they are way smaller than any I can find online. Any suggestions as to what I can do/where I can find small ones?

For a start that's the lockshield valve, so you should probably be looking at changing the other one (the wheelhead valve)*. Secondly, you're measuring it wrong. Inside that big nut will be a hexagonal recess for a kind of large Allen key designed for removing radiator valve tails. The type of connexion your radiator has is now less common, so you'll need to wind out the whole valve tail which will screw into the radiator. The radiator itself finishes flush. You probably won't see the joint, because the tail has been painted over heavily.

Concerned you may be slightly out of your depth, but I suppose if you want to learn, it's not a bad place to start. Worst case scenario is you have to blank off the radiator pipe for a while and remain one radiator down - so if you aren't competent with fitting a compression stopend correctly first, buy a number of copper olives and a couple of compression stopends in 15mm size (will also work on 1/2") then you can practice on a scrap bit of pipe connected to a hose.

*I say probably because most TRVs can be fitted to either the flow or return of the radiator - some are directional, so you need to check the arrow on the body and make sure you fit it so it points in the direction of water flow which might mean you HAVE to fit it where the current lockshield valve is. Usually the lockshield valve will be on the return - the cooler end of the radiator.