Discuss Electric Shower Finally Died in the DIY Bathroom Remodelling Advice area at PlumbersForums.net

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Hiya

I say finally because it's been a temperamental swine for a few years!

Model: Triton Osiris
Previous Issue: Heater suddenly cuts out, runs cold
Previous Issue Remedy: Turn up to max heat until thermostat clicks then slowly turn back to required temperature (could take several attempts)
Current Issue: No heat at all. No click as before. Just runs cold

1) Light still comes on pull-switch box
2) Shower still runs when power button clicked (but only cold)
3) TCO has continuity

I've now exhausted my very limited plumbing/electrical knowledge! Any suggestions what else I can try?

Thanks so much for reading. I do appreciate your time, whether you can help or not!

Nigel
 
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Lol, a new shower pal , are you a Yorkshire man ?
Haha! No, but I am tight!

That was my first idea but we're a bit hard up at the moment so I Googled a bit and someone suggested checking the TCO. I could have got a replacement one for £15 and fitted it in 5 mins if that had been the problem.
 

townfanjon

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Haha! No, but I am tight!

That was my first idea but we're a bit hard up at the moment so I Googled a bit and someone suggested checking the TCO. I could have got a replacement one for £15 and fitted it in 5 mins if that had been the problem.
I am one , lol .
I suppose I am looking at this thinking what would I do on behalf of customer obviously not wanting any grief or comeback on an ancient shower, I honestly could not repair it because something else would go wrong the week after . It would have to be a replacement.
 
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Hiya

I say finally because it's been a temperamental swine for a few years!

Model: Triton Osiris
Previous Issue: Heater suddenly cuts out, runs cold
Previous Issue Remedy: Turn up to max heat until thermostat clicks then slowly turn back to required temperature (could take several attempts)
Current Issue: No heat at all. No click as before. Just runs cold

1) Light still comes on pull-switch box
2) Shower still runs when power button clicked (but only cold)
3) TCO has continuity

I've now exhausted my very limited plumbing/electrical knowledge! Any suggestions what else I can try?

Thanks so much for reading. I do appreciate your time, whether you can help or not!

Nigel
The TCO (item 13) in this shower is non re settable and has to be renewed so assuming you have continuity then it could possibly be the temperature regulator which is located in the outlet which is not resetting (item 16), and easy to check for continuity.
http://www.tritonshowers.co.uk/media/custom/upload/File-1379593830.pdf
 
B

Burger

Hiya

I say finally because it's been a temperamental swine for a few years!

Model: Triton Osiris
Previous Issue: Heater suddenly cuts out, runs cold
Previous Issue Remedy: Turn up to max heat until thermostat clicks then slowly turn back to required temperature (could take several attempts)
Current Issue: No heat at all. No click as before. Just runs cold

1) Light still comes on pull-switch box
2) Shower still runs when power button clicked (but only cold)
3) TCO has continuity

I've now exhausted my very limited plumbing/electrical knowledge! Any suggestions what else I can try?

Thanks so much for reading. I do appreciate your time, whether you can help or not!

Nigel
Please only check info you are competent with electrics:
Check resistance of heating elements, check power to heating elements - could be microswitch.
 
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Please only check info you are competent with electrics:
Check resistance of heating elements, check power to heating elements - could be microswitch.
Cheers for that. I guess that means removing and disassembling the can...? Getting out of my comfort zone now!
 
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I guess hidden in my original question (with the outline of my historic problems with the shower) is: is a replacement electric shower going to solve all this or could the initial problem (which may even have triggered the final demise of the shower) have been caused by low water pressure? I struggle to get 8 litres/minute out of my cold tap.
 
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Flow/stabilizing switch? common to both micro switches. Maybe try on low power and try lower flow to see if one micro switch is making and as above suggestions... heating elements resistances , micro switches etc.
 
B

Burger

Cheers for that. I guess that means removing and disassembling the can...? Getting out of my comfort zone now!
No need to disassemble the can. The top of the heating element has 2 or sometimes 3 elements (usually high Kw showers) which are easy enough to check. I assume you have a multimeter? Also the obvious - check you have got approx 240v.
 
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B

Burger

I guess hidden in my original question (with the outline of my historic problems with the shower) is: is a replacement electric shower going to solve all this or could the initial problem (which may even have triggered the final demise of the shower) have been caused by low water pressure? I struggle to get 8 litres/minute out of my cold tap.
If you’re struggling with flow, check your incoming mains stopcock is open fully with approx 1/8th turn closed. This might have been why it was going hot and cold,also check the shower head and hose for blockages/restrictions.
 
B

Burger

I guess hidden in my original question (with the outline of my historic problems with the shower) is: is a replacement electric shower going to solve all this or could the initial problem (which may even have triggered the final demise of the shower) have been caused by low water pressure? I struggle to get 8 litres/minute out of my cold tap.
A new electric shower would probably resolve the issue.
 
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I guess hidden in my original question (with the outline of my historic problems with the shower) is: is a replacement electric shower going to solve all this or could the initial problem (which may even have triggered the final demise of the shower) have been caused by low water pressure? I struggle to get 8 litres/minute out of my cold tap.
If you feel competent to safely use a multimeter
I guess hidden in my original question (with the outline of my historic problems with the shower) is: is a replacement electric shower going to solve all this or could the initial problem (which may even have triggered the final demise of the shower) have been caused by low water pressure? I struggle to get 8 litres/minute out of my cold tap.
Element resistance(s) should be ~ 11/13 ohms, I wouldn't just fit a new heating can as its probably something that,s common to both micro switches. Its possible but unlikely that the mains pressure is too low or filter blocked, remove the shower hose at the shower and see if the flow rate increases and water starts getting hot or put the power setting on low and turn down the flowrate to see if water starts getting hot.
On high power, the flowrate should not be < 4 LPM and on low power not < 2.5 LPM.
 
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A new electric shower would probably resolve the issue.
Well I hope so. My fear is buying a new shower and still getting a poor flow. TBH low water pressure is something everyone suffers from round here. I've always had that on every tap in the house. Stop valve is fully open minus 1/8. We've got a non-combi boiler with hot water tank (downstairs) shower (upstairs) with cold water tank about 1.5m above it in the loft. If I went for a new shower what's my best option? I want a good flow. What about showers with additional pumps for really good flow? How do they work if output flow is greater than input flow? What happens when the tank empties?
 
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Just to do a spot check on your existing flow rate, turn the temperature control to setting 1, get a bucket and place the shower head into it for exactly one minute then get a 1 litre milk bottle and you should measure 6 to 8 litres . If you do then there is no problem with your mains pressure.
Forgot to add that even when the shower was operating normally were you ever getting a intermittent low pressure warning light up?, or see if you get it up now with the temperature setting to 1.
 
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Haha! No, but I am tight!

That was my first idea but we're a bit hard up at the moment so I Googled a bit and someone suggested checking the TCO. I could have got a replacement one for £15 and fitted it in 5 mins if that had been the problem.
A cheap triton riva can be found for £50.00 and its an easy fit, just bite the bullet
Rob Foster aka centralheatking
 
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Just to do a spot check on your existing flow rate, turn the temperature control to setting 1, get a bucket and place the shower head into it for exactly one minute then get a 1 litre milk bottle and you should measure 6 to 8 litres . If you do then there is no problem with your mains pressure.
Forgot to add that even when the shower was operating normally were you ever getting a intermittent low pressure warning light up?, or see if you get it up now with the temperature setting to 1.
Thanks John.
I'm getting exactly 6 litres per minute. I just read the spec sheet you sent over:

"To ensure activation of the heating elements, the shower must be connected to a mains water supply with a minimum running pressure of 100kPa (1.0 bar) at a minimum flow rate of eight litres per minute for the 8.5kW rated model and nine litres per minute for the 9.5kW rated model. 50kPa (1.5 bar) at 11 litres per minute for 10.5Kw"

It appears the water pressure is barely enough to operate the shower hence the repeated cut-outs and final demise. That answers my question: a new shower of the same type is not the answer. I need a pump.
 

Riley

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If your looking at a cheap fix a pump won’t be it. Be warned
 
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Do 2 tests for mains water volume delivered to your gaff
1. at peak load 8.00 am weekday
2.quiet times Sunday 6am
from an outside tap and an inside tap..kitchen and report back. r u in London?
centralheatking
 
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Do 2 tests for mains water volume delivered to your gaff
1. at peak load 8.00 am weekday
2.quiet times Sunday 6am
from an outside tap and an inside tap..kitchen and report back. r u in London?
centralheatking
Will do. Cheers. We're in Manchester.
 
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Thanks John.
I'm getting exactly 6 litres per minute. I just read the spec sheet you sent over:

"To ensure activation of the heating elements, the shower must be connected to a mains water supply with a minimum running pressure of 100kPa (1.0 bar) at a minimum flow rate of eight litres per minute for the 8.5kW rated model and nine litres per minute for the 9.5kW rated model. 50kPa (1.5 bar) at 11 litres per minute for 10.5Kw"

It appears the water pressure is barely enough to operate the shower hence the repeated cut-outs and final demise. That answers my question: a new shower of the same type is not the answer. I need a pump.
You can buy a PUMPED electric shower, in operation similar to yours but it has a INTEGRAL pump and MUST be fed from the CWST in your attic, you will get the same performance from it but no problems with erratic mains pressure, it will only consume ~ 100 watts extra to power its pump. Here, the Triton T90 SR is very popular as it has a very silent running pump.
 
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You can buy a PUMPED electric shower, in operation similar to yours but it has a INTEGRAL pump and MUST be fed from the CWST in your attic, you will get the same performance from it but no problems with erratic mains pressure, it will only consume ~ 100 watts extra to power its pump. Here, the Triton T90 SR is very popular as it has a very silent running pump.
Thanks John. I'll take a look. Naive question: if the shower is the only appliance drawing water then why doesn't the tank act as a regulator against fluctuating mains pressure? The shower shouldn't notice unless the tank empties? ?
 
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It does but you still need a pump to give you > 1 bar at the rated flow as the head (pressure) from the CWST is only, depending on shower location, 0.2 to 0.5 bar due to gravity. You are running your present pump on mains pressure???.
 
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Will do. Cheers. We're in Manchester.
Thats good news as Thames Water pressure is a trickle and they wont improve it because they cant. Manchester and greater Manchester should be pretty good, if it is low you might convince them to up grade your main...there are ways. centralheatking
 
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