Danfoss zone valve wiring

[Artin]

hi All, i am blocked on an issue:
connecting Danfoss AMZ 112 (230VAC) ball zone valve to Heatmiser UH4 wiring center,seems wiring center turns ON the valve (open) when room stat calls for heat, which is fine, but when room stat stops calling for heat, wiring center does not close the valve, maybe i am doing wrong wiring, attached please find the wiring diagram from Danfoss!
in the wiring diagram seems the 3rd wire purpose is to turn the valve motor left or right?!! how to connect that?

 

[SJB060685]

Bit busy at the moment but will have a read later
[automerge]1580063046[/automerge]
Does this help?

[automerge]1580076347[/automerge]
I've had a quick look at the manual and cant make sense of the wiring. Are you sure this valve is compatible? Perhaps @Brambles can advise

 

[Artin]

Bit busy at the moment but will have a read later
[automerge]1580063046[/automerge]
Does this help?View attachment 42333
[automerge]1580076347[/automerge]
I've had a quick look at the manual and cant make sense of the wiring. Are you sure this valve is compatible? Perhaps @Brambles can advise

what do you mean by compatible, i guess there should be a solution to this, if it does not have spring, then it should be reversed by voltage. i mean it shouldn't remain open when no call for heat,
[automerge]1580106086[/automerge]

Bit busy at the moment but will have a read later
[automerge]1580063046[/automerge]
Does this help?View attachment 42333
[automerge]1580076347[/automerge]
I've had a quick look at the manual and cant make sense of the wiring. Are you sure this valve is compatible? Perhaps @Brambles can advise

BTW thanks for the manual, I have seen this, but cannot figure out how to wire for On/Off mode

 

[SJB060685]

No problem. Honestly I've not got any experience with this valve (never seen one) and like you couldn't make sense of the little explanation the manual gives, so I don't know if it's even suitable for use with UH4. I tagged Brambles because he is very knowledgeable with these systems and components.

 

[Artin]

No problem. Honestly I've not got any experience with this valve (never seen one) and like you couldn't make sense of the little explanation the manual gives, so I don't know if it's even suitable for use with UH4. I tagged Brambles because he is very knowledgeable with these systems and components.

ok cool, looking forward to get help from @Brambles

 

[SJB060685]

Yes hopefully he'll pop in at some point, he is the go to man

 

[Brambles]

If you are using a Heatmiser UH4 ( or Polyplumb) you cannot use that Danfoss valve. You need a normally closed, powered open valve

 

[Brambles]

The valve you have is a (powered) on/off valve normally used in thermal solar applications.

 

[SJB060685]

Thanks Brambles, yet again you save the day

 

[Artin]

The valve you have is a (powered) on/off valve normally used in thermal solar applications.

cool thanks, so as i understood i need to solve the issue with normally open and normally closed relays, am i right? or you think it is not possible ?

 

[Brambles]

I assume that you are using the UH4 to control an underfloor heating system?

If so you don't need any relays, just use a 240v two wire normally closed actuator head - they are around £12.

For the radiator circuit ( if you have one) you will need an actuator with an end switch

If you want to use normally open valves with the UH4 you will need to give some thought with respect to pump control.

 

[Artin]

I assume that you are using the UH4 to control an underfloor heating system?

If so you don't need any relays, just use a 240v two wire normally closed actuator head - they are around £12.

For the radiator circuit ( if you have one) you will need an actuator with an end switch

If you want to use normally open valves with the UH4 you will need to give some thought with respect to pump control.

yes i am using for radiator and floor heating (Zone1-UFH and Zone 2-radiators) attached just for your reference Heatmiser provided me the wiring diagram.

 

[Brambles]

Yes that is completely correct, but you have to use compatible actuators for the system to work.

You can only use Zone 4 for a radiator circuit (and you can only have one radiator circuit, if you also have a DHW circuit). If you use Zone 2 or Zone 3 it will trigger the UFH pump when you get a call for heat. Which is ok if your UFH zone 1 is also calling for heat, but not if it is not!

 

[MikeJhn]

Have not been on the Forum for a while, but note the lack of thanks or response from original posters, can I say thanks to all who contributed on this and all other threads, can't get around to all the threads that this applies too.

 

[Timmy D]

If you are using a Heatmiser UH4 ( or Polyplumb) you cannot use that Danfoss valve. You need a normally closed, powered open valve

I’m not arguing here, just want to learn. With this particular valve and it’s need to be powered to close. Could you supply it with a permanent live to pin 2 (looking at the instructions) and then a switched live to pin 3 to open it?

Would that work?

 

[Brambles]

I have only seen these valves used in Solar installations. There are a number of ways in which they can be configured, normal and modulating - that is set by dip switches in the valve. From the dip switch positions that determines how it is wired. The instructions posted by the OP show the wiring as what Danfoss call modulating ie the speed of operation. You really need to read the full instructions for this and the three port version to get the full picture as to how they operate and configure them.

In the conventional form of operation only terminal 1, 2 and 3 are used switching 2 to 3 moves the valve in the next direction.

In modulating there are 4 terminals, but 1 is live and 2 neutral whereas in normal mode 1 is neutral and 2 live. So they are very easy to screw up!